I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. Ramping is also not useful for light painters, stepped brightness levels are more preferable.
not compatible with 7135 biscotti driver
Thanks. Is there any way I can light up my c8+ with Biscotii?
Hmm…I was hoping it would have 5 modes. Any chance there will be a driver with more mode options for the red?
Just receive mine today, L21A CULPM1…heheh cant wait to test it tonight
1st impression: dont under estimate of what appeared to be the brown cheap convectional box, bcos inside it, is a built-in-quality flashlight…WOW! I love the deep fins, the cut is what really impress me. Looks very complicated head design, make me stare at it for a while…
Compare head to head with FT03, obviously FT03 now look pretty much basics in design compare to L21A where head look really appealing, the glass glare purplish more than FT03, meaning L21A has a good anti-reflective coating. Although the head of L21A weight more than Ft03(balance), its function is more toward efficient thermal dissipation.
What LED in your C8+?
what’s the detail of the 5 modes?
This year will be the first ……warm white christmas….
This IS exactly what I was looking for my modded Infrared Z1!
Osram KW CSLNM1.TG. By light up I mean a way of finding it by night.
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 - 120ºC (212 - 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don't think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
P.S.: Considering flashlights are powered by li-ion cells 100 - 120°C likely is overboard. Maybe setting it at 85 or 90°C could be nice. Maybe.
Wed, 11/25/2020 - 12:57
More output levels, like 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%.
Simon, I have noticed you now offer S2+ with red light. Does it mean that 2.5A red led driver fits inside S2+? Because earlier you said it was not compatible.
That’s why i remove them when possible.
Still looking for the ntc on the xhp35 driver and 4x18A driver though
Very excited for these. Would love to have one in a M3 if they can be run 1S.
I think most people prefer not to burn themselves so 55-60C is probably sensible. A bit of testing last night showed that is seems to stabilise at around 25% after a few minutes on either 35 or 100% mode, so seems to be OK for my night photography use (as by the time I’ve gone back to my camera and focussed, set exposure, the output should be stable).
It is marketed for red leds, totally looking like a buck driver. ∅17mm. Two A19T MOSFETs behind, these must be for reverse polarity protection. The sense resistor stage is gross, with 0.1Ω combined, dropping 0.25V at maximum driving current; this is its only fault, reducing efficiency.
There is no reason for it not to work with any other 1S emitter.
In fact, when switching from 10% to 35, or switching from 35 to 100%, the naked eye does not perceive the change in red light brightness.
it’s suitable ,i add a link
S2+ with red light