SFH55 fits nicely in an S21A reflector when the vertex is opened up a little. A spacer should be used to prevent the reflector from pressing on the silicone of the LED and damaging it, rather than a typical centering ring. The underside portions of the reflector can be used for centering and spacing.

Pushing 20+ amps through an unmodified Omten 1288 is not ideal. A modified 10A Convoy switch will fit in the S2+ and S21A etc., or a FET switch could be used.

I think this model is more popular than the SS S6 because of its smooth head and thinned battery tube, it should get priority for an 18350 tube.

Hey Simon, can you make a rigid headband for the H4 like skilhunt’s HB4? With a plastic clamp, so that the flashlight could be snapped on and off easier?

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I rather have the S6 myself.

Comrade Simon, please make 18350 tubes for S6-SS and S7-SS flashlights. We will definitely buy these tubes. Thank you.

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Simon, can you add XHP50.3 HI option to S2+ Titanium on your shop? I see with other colours but not in Titanium. Thanks.

Hello Simon, and everyone, has the Convoy 5A buck’s quick step-down problem been solved? If this is resolved, is there any appearance that distinguishes the different versions?

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My 17mm 5A buck drivers (3 samples across two orders in April 2025) do not have the stepdown issue. Though the moonlight leaves something to be desired…

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Try XP-GR?

Hi Simon, would you list the 10A forward clicky switch in your store, by itself without the spring and PCB please?

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What method do you use to reflow these switches? The plastic melts so easily.

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Thank you @Simon_Mao for adding the EVE 50PL to you store. This currently seems to be the best 21700 battery in the world! You have already sourced it and began selling it, even though it is quite new, impressive!

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Has an AA/14500 headlamp been considered? I would definitely be interested in something cheap & right angled running AA batteries to leave in my car

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Not sure whether the first word was “A” or “AA”.
But I believe AA/14500

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The body of the 10A forward clicky is made from glass fiber reinforced plastic. In my limited experience with the switch, I have not found it to melt easily.

Is this the switch you found to melt easily?

The ones that melted were the 16mm reverse clicky (white Omten) for S2+/C8. I haven’t tried this switch.

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Omten 1288 switches do melt easily. The 10A switch does not.

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Isn’t reflowing switches not recommended in general? I usually use my soldering iron.


Got my first gray MAO light today. Very interesting color, almost looks like sandstone. Hard to capture on phone pics.

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Did you solder or de-solder a switch with a soldering iron? I’ve tried to remove a switch from a PCB with an iron, but it seems impossible to get enough heat to both contacts of the switch without melting the plastic. I imagine that soldering one might be slightly easier as the contacts can be soldered one at a time.