Couple board mounting questions

So a couple question for y’all.
The LED emitter board is a bit larger than the pill…at least to be mounted flush within the pill. Is it normal protocol to cut the diameter down? another similar question about driver to follow.

Now, on the driver board, the inset within the pill, it’s not deep enough, the locking ring can’t grab threads. What is the normal answer for this? I have read about bridging with solder and go without ring, i was going to mount this into the body I will be turning on the lathe. This was just for experience and swapping later if possible.

With ring in place…
Thanks guys.

The pill looks like it is designed for a 16mm MCPCB?, the triple is 20mm.
You can either fill the recess with some extra metal, making sure of a level surface or file the edge down flat depending on your build.
Don’t you need a spacer now?
There are ready made spacers that should fit into the pill as is.
I wouldn’t reduce the MCPCB diameter to fit the pill.
You will need a centre hole drilled for the wires too.

Tricky with the retaining ring and those 7135 chips, the pill is designed for flat drivers. Might be possible to file the inside of the ring to shape to clear the components or just solder the driver in while lightly pressing it into the pill so it stays even, probably need a filler in there around the edge like some solid copper wire etc.

Thanks CRX. So the emitter board needs a spacer? Good to know. I have looked up many DYI/builds here and haven’t come across that. Thank you, I’ll look into it.
If I turn the inner ledge to give me a couple more mm’s of space for driver, is it ok that they locking ring comes in contact with the chips in the board?
I did plan on drilling a center hole and I did pick up thermal paste, i assume that is for the emitter?
Thanks for some direction here, this is a crash course no doubt…

If you’re using a host that’s designed for a single LED the reflector that came with it will be longer than the optic you’ll be using for the triple LEDs, so the spacer is to fill up the missing length.
If this pill is to go into your own build i’m sure you’ll be machining the head to fit and therefore won’t need the spacer :slight_smile:
Yes, the thermal paste goes under the LED board to fill up the minute air gaps between the 2 surfaces, thermal paste conducts heat better than air.

What light are you building, I’m guessing this pill is from a light that has a reflector?
Your new triple MCPCB & optic will only be around 7mm high, the reflector will most likely be taller than this so you need to make up the extra space, usually with a copper or aluminium spacer.
Plus it’s good to have a chunk of metal as a heat sink for triple builds.

Example:

Ideally you would want both sides of that drivers negative ring to be securely tightened to the pill or soldered for dissipating heat and the thermal control.
You could make a brass or copper extension piece to fit under the retaining ring if you’re going to deepen the driver cavity a little. Tightening down on the chips risks breaking them.

Thank you Marc. I am using a Convoy S4 just to learn the ropes. Titanium is expensive and slow to machine. I’m making dumb/newb mistakes (I guess to be expected) but I can’t do this in the rap build. I am completely relying on this board for direction…I know that’s crappy of me…hope you all understand.
I’ll whip out a spacer that will have a raised area to fit into concave area of pill and flat on top to fit my emitter board.
Thanks!

CRX, I am turning a titanium light. I have seen so many that run 1500 to $2k and even if I wanted to spend that kind of money, they are sold on a lottery system and have a low chance of getting a chance to purchase new or used.
This test setup has no reflector. From the emitters directly to a triple lens optic. That’s doable…yes?
You are saying NOT to use a locking ring on this driver setup? I must solder it in?
Thank you CRX

No by all means use the lock ring but have it so it screws down onto the driver rim if you can, I prefer a lock ring to soldering as it makes it easier to access in the future.
You just want a good connection on both sides of the driver to the pill so I was thinking you could deepen the driver cavity and make a ring spacer that fits on top of the outer driver contact leaving enough space to use the lock ring and not interfering with the 7135 chips if that makes sense.

That will be a choir with what I have here…that ring would have to be in the range of 1mm wide…it’s about 2.5mm (going from memory) I suppose I could fabricate something…but to be honest, this whole host was to learn the electronics (which are surprisingly more complicated than I had previously thought!) I’d rather keep this as simple as possible…IF possible.

Welcome to making lights… :smiley:
At least you have a lathe, all I use is files & hacksaws :laughing:
So I’m probably not the best person to help you here.

Just FYI…this is the parts list I currently have for this host build. I will make a spacer, hopefully there are no more incorrect parts to deal with

You can buy the spacer you need for like $5 from MtnElectronics (a US based seller so no overseas shipping).