Cree XP-E 'Far Red' 730nm wavelength emitters

staticx57 · 2018-07-30T03:28:04.000Z

I have a few of these. Even put one in a Lumintop Worm, but had no idea what to do with it till now.

eBay

10 pieces OSRAM OSLON SSL 80 COLOR LED Far-Red 730nm GF CS8PM1.24...

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 10 pieces OSRAM OSLON SSL 80 COLOR LED Far-Red 730nm GF CS8PM1.24 Horticultural at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

travis · 2018-07-30T03:36:03.000Z

Is this wavelength safe to view with the naked eye; no filtering goggles needed?

Cereal_killer · 2018-07-30T10:33:28.000Z

staticx57:

I have a few of these. Even put one in a Lumintop Worm, but had no idea what to do with it till now.

10 pieces OSRAM OSLON SSL 80 COLOR LED Far-Red 730nm GF CS8PM1.24 Horticultural | eBay

Did you buy them from that link? Just curious.
I have some red osram oslons but I got them from some LED tail lights I disassembled so I have no idea on their specific wavelength / bin

maukka · 2018-07-30T11:56:18.000Z

travis:

Is this wavelength safe to view with the naked eye; no filtering goggles needed?

Incandescent light bulbs have a lot of far red and IR. So unless this is mostly invisible so that the pupil doesn’t contract or the intensity is very high, I don’t think it’s a problem. I would think 720-750nm is very visible still. So probably no need to wear any glasses unless you’re viewing it directly or in a pitch black room.

djozz · 2018-07-30T12:09:09.000Z

At least the ‘green’ cone in the human eye has no sensitivity for light longer than 650-700nm, so anything higher than 700nm will just be recorded by the red cone and will appear the same dark red colour. Also from 700nm on your eyes become highly insensitive so you need enormous power to get a decent visible illumination. I think anything higher than 720nm will appear pretty invisible.

Lux-Perpetua · 2018-07-30T12:12:47.000Z

I assume those XP-E Photo Red are more useful than Far Red, right? There are a lot of controverse discussions whether or not deep red light (> 650nm) is better for maintaining one’s night vision ability compared to normal red light with 625-650nm (= XP-E2 red).

maukka · 2018-07-30T12:23:10.000Z

djozz:

I think anything higher than 720nm will appear pretty invisible.

The OP in the reddit thread said

I have some 730nm LEDs, and I built a flashlight from a 3 watt one. When I take this light into a room and shine it on my black fabrics, the fabrics shine back red. Even more interesting is the fact that if the black fabric had been written on with black permanent marker, the writing becomes readable. Far-red LEDs make any other red LED look a bit orange by comparision

At least he sees them as red. Of course we don’t know if the ebay LEDs are actually 730nm. I wonder who would have equipment to verify those…

djozz · 2018-07-30T12:35:16.000Z

As long as the intensity is high enough you will see it (there is some sensitivity up to 800nm, probably a bit different for each individual) , it is a very inefficient way of illumination though, you need hundreds of times more radiation power to see the same intensity as green light.

goshdogit · 2018-07-30T14:07:51.000Z

Thanks for all the input. Perhaps I’m overestimating the novelty of far red to the naked eye. I was hoping to be wowed. :laughing:

Does it create any interesting visual effects aside from making some black materials appear red? Is it only impressive in conjunction with a camera?

My friend has a modified DSLR with the IR/UV filters removed, so far red would be fun with that.

emarkd · 2018-07-30T14:13:53.000Z

FlashTom:

I assume those XP-E Photo Red are more useful than Far Red, right? There are a lot of controverse discussions whether or not deep red light (> 650nm) is better for maintaining one’s night vision ability compared to normal red light with 625-650nm (= XP-E2 red).

I’ve built lights using XP-E 660nm “photo red” emitters, and XQ-E 670nm emitters. Both are more pleasing to my eye than normal 630nm red. In fact I don’t care for the 630s much at all since trying the higher wavelength stuff. They do indeed look quite orange in comparison. Whether they’re actually more useful or not, I can’t say. But I do like them quite a bit better.

I’ll have to order up some “far red” stuff to play with.

goshdogit · 2018-07-30T15:51:02.000Z

emarkd:

I’ll have to order up some “far red” stuff to play with.

I saw you in the reddit post and was hoping you’d chime in here. :+1:

I’d like to try a far red triple. I have a spare copper spacer, some Carclos, and an empty S2+. It’s even red.

I thought I’d either reflow some bare emitters onto a Noctigon triple, or use this triple from LEDsupply rewired for parallel:

The loaded board from LEDsupply is $12 with free shipping. Three bare emitters from Digi-Key would be about $9 with shipping.

I don’t have any experience with limiting a driver’s output. Maybe I could tweak Bistro’s code to limit the power of an MTN FET + 7135 driver? I already have a couple and would rather not fiddle with ordering components to build or modify a driver.

What are your build plans?

djozz · 2018-07-30T15:58:24.000Z

You want different hardware, not soffware. A 7135 current controlled driver would work for these (such as a 3A biscotti driver from Simon, so for 1A per led). And hope for the best because a lot of overvoltage needs burning off by the driver A lower voltage battery like a LiFePo battery could help with that.

DavidEF · 2018-07-30T19:17:52.000Z

djozz:

You want different hardware, not soffware. A 7135 current controlled driver would work for these (such as a 3A biscotti driver from Simon, so for 1A per led). And hope for the best because a lot of overvoltage needs burning off by the driver A lower voltage battery like a LiFePo battery could help with that.

Or maybe a buck driver because the Vf is low enough to make use of the conversion?

djozz · 2018-07-30T19:27:23.000Z

DavidEF:

djozz:

You want different hardware, not soffware. A 7135 current controlled driver would work for these (such as a 3A biscotti driver from Simon, so for 1A per led). And hope for the best because a lot of overvoltage needs burning off by the driver A lower voltage battery like a LiFePo battery could help with that.

Or maybe a buck driver because the Vf is low enough to make use of the conversion?

I assume that would be better even, you need more than half a Volt overhead and this is almost 2V so it should be fine , but you want a 3A or more 17mm buckdriver, with half-decent firmware, does that exist?

staticx57 · 2018-07-30T20:05:36.000Z

maukka:

djozz:

I think anything higher than 720nm will appear pretty invisible.

The OP in the reddit thread said

I have some 730nm LEDs, and I built a flashlight from a 3 watt one. When I take this light into a room and shine it on my black fabrics, the fabrics shine back red. Even more interesting is the fact that if the black fabric had been written on with black permanent marker, the writing becomes readable. Far-red LEDs make any other red LED look a bit orange by comparision

At least he sees them as red. Of course we don’t know if the ebay LEDs are actually 730nm. I wonder who would have equipment to verify those…

The Osram’s I posted? The i1 Pro I have clips at 730nm but I can assume this is a safe conclusion.

XPE Photo Red

Osram

DavidEF · 2018-07-30T20:26:42.000Z

djozz:

DavidEF:

djozz:

You want different hardware, not soffware. A 7135 current controlled driver would work for these (such as a 3A biscotti driver from Simon, so for 1A per led). And hope for the best because a lot of overvoltage needs burning off by the driver A lower voltage battery like a LiFePo battery could help with that.

Or maybe a buck driver because the Vf is low enough to make use of the conversion?

I assume that would be better even, you need more than half a Volt overhead and this is almost 2V so it should be fine , but you want a 3A or more 17mm buckdriver, with half-decent firmware, does that exist?

Oh, I dunno! Does it?

adam7027 · 2018-08-18T21:01:17.000Z

djozz:

You want different hardware, not soffware. A 7135 current controlled driver would work for these (such as a 3A biscotti driver from Simon, so for 1A per led). And hope for the best because a lot of overvoltage needs burning off by the driver A lower voltage battery like a LiFePo battery could help with that.

djozz:

DavidEF:

Or maybe a buck driver because the Vf is low enough to make use of the conversion?

I assume that would be better even, you need more than half a Volt overhead and this is almost 2V so it should be fine , but you want a 3A or more 17mm buckdriver, with half-decent firmware, does that exist?

Assuming, that a buck driver can convert into the 1.9-2.3V range from 3.0-4.2V (I just hope, this assumption is right :-) ), I have seen these at kaidomain.com:

this - only 1 mode at 1.3A, 0.43A per led, not sure about height
this - very similar, height is shown as 6.8mm, not sure if it can fit in a Jaxman E2L host
I am also wondering about this and this - they don't seem to have 7135 regulators, but I am not sure, if they are linear or buck drivers.

Another idea came to my mind: is it possible to get a triple board for Carclo 105xx optics, which has the LED connections serially? If so, then the next step would be to find a single cell boost driver, which delivers max. around 0.8-1A current for the triple board - then Vf would be a bit high, but maybe still tolerable (5.7-6.9V range) - I wonder if there is a good boost driver for that (also, d=17mm).

Jerommel · 2018-12-28T15:02:48.000Z

I’ve got one of those quad boards with 4x XP-E 730nm in my AliExpress shopping cart.

Some time ago i got some Epileds 3535 660nm, and it’s a very nice deep red, or as someone here said, makes normal red (620nm?) look like orange.
Epileds are cheaper and not too bad i.m.o., but it seems they don’t make 730nm.

Good to read here that it’s definitely a visible wavelength.
Could be worth considering to add one of those to indoor lighting, just to get that deep warmness of old fashioned Tungsten light sources.
I don’t think there are any white LEDs that go that deep into the red
Even the Nichia Optisolis only goes up to some 640nm iirc.

djozz · 2018-12-28T16:42:11.000Z

Most sources suggest that the M-cones in our retina sense next to nothing over 670nm, so all detection comes down to the L-cones. That would imply that all wavelenghths over 670nm are perceived as the same colour, the sensitivity just gets less and less when going higher. 730nm will be very inefficient, a lot of radiant power is needed to obtain any decent brightness.

This is not a first-hand real-life observation, anyone have a different experience?

hank · 2018-12-28T17:28:46.000Z

rewired for parallel

Got a picture of how you rewired it?

Having botched the soldering of several attempts to rewire triples as parallel (shaky hands and sloppy technique), I’m always interested in successes.