CRX FW3A Mods & Teardown

CRX · 2019-05-14T17:41:49.000Z

Didn’t even think
Not magnetic.

cabfrank · 2019-05-14T18:51:48.000Z

Great stuff, as always. What would be the best size kapton tape to buy for this?

CRX · 2019-05-14T19:04:49.000Z

cabfrank:

Great stuff, as always. What would be the best size kapton tape to buy for this?

I have 30mm wide kapton tape, two strips of this will leave a gap of approx 2.0464mm, I cut thinner strips to fill this but it should be fine without.

cabfrank · 2019-05-14T19:31:27.000Z

Thanks!

fluke · 2019-05-31T23:01:17.000Z

Is anyone doing trit tail switches/caps?

CRX · 2019-05-31T23:06:39.000Z

Try to convince DrafterDan to make some for sale :innocent:

FW3A mod thread. Post yours! 18650 Flashlights

I just finished up this tritium tailcap today. My first attempt was the single slot that I ended up putting a fiber optic into. I like how this one turned out. Does anybody know who came up with the Predator tritium pattern? This was my first attempt at doing it. I kept the tail-standing ability, felt that was important. [image] [image] [image] [image]

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-06-01T01:14:01.000Z

I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

NeutralFan · 2019-06-01T01:16:13.000Z

Very impressive CRX! I like your tailcap tritium design.

CRX · 2019-06-01T01:25:36.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

Cool, might be a great seller, will probably need a redesigned rubber boot too :+1:

CRX · 2019-06-01T01:23:28.000Z

NeutralFan:

Very impressive CRX! I like your tailcap tritium design. :+1:

Thanks mate, yeah it was about the only way I could do it without machines and retain most of the original machined button look.
This is why I was so dismayed when that wabbit appeared on the final prototype!

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-06-01T01:27:46.000Z

CRX:

KawiBoy1428:

I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

Cool, might be a great seller :+1:

Right on, he has Glo Caps …… but Trits are waaaaaaay Cooler! Been eyeing the 1.5x3x9mm retangular trits……

TRITIUM VIALS, TRITIUM SAFETY MARKERS, TRITIUM KEY FOBS AND TITANIUM ITEMS

mixglo T1.5x3x9 1.5x3x9mm rectangular tritium vial

1.5mm (Thickness) x 3mm (Width) x 9mm (Length) rectangular tritium vial, green, ice blue, red only

CRX · 2019-06-01T01:39:29.000Z

Funny, I’ve been looking at a 4mm x 1.3mm x 7mm rectangular green vial that I can get over here.
It would completely cover the tail switch hole but I also like it as is with the variable brightness due to the GITD backing the trit as I have it now. Decisions decisions…

RapidLux · 2019-06-01T09:58:22.000Z

From the diagram I can see you in 8x7135 mode, get 3 times sustainable output, 900 lm, compared to the original FW3A 300lm. How do you explain this enormous improvement? How is it possible?

CRX · 2019-06-01T13:16:59.000Z

Bypassed springs, thicker LED wires, cleaned & tweaked contacts, Noctigon MCPCB, better thermal paste, the light set to 65°C thermal limit, hand cooled & moving around, not standing alone untouched.
I have working mans hands so can take some abuse
Bearing in mind my sphere is not calibrated the output is close to what others have given for that level.
3x XP-L HI should give around that OTF lumens at 3A.
You may be referring to the stock light set up to 45°C thermal limit?
The thermal limit setting and cooling are factors that will determine the sustained output.
A single XP-L HI v2 running at 1A /65°C should give around 400lm.

RapidLux · 2019-06-01T20:16:16.000Z

How high sustained output lm do you think it will be possible to attain with a Convoy M3, doing similar mods?

CRX · 2019-06-01T20:26:25.000Z

No idea. I’m not familiar at all with that light. A quick look, it’s pretty big so has a potential to hold brighter for longer.
It’s also not so much the mods but rather what temperature you’re comfortable holding, ambient temp, LEDs, driver etc.
All lights will become heat saturated at some point, obviously the more mass, cooler surroundings etc the longer that will take at a given wattage.

dragunbayne · 2019-06-25T17:55:32.000Z

Do you think it would be possible to epoxy a magnet into the stock button or is it only really doable the way you did? I really would love to make mine magnetic once it arrives. If you think it would be possible, could you check the diameter of the inside so I could source a magnet?

CRX · 2019-06-26T11:26:30.000Z

Yeah I thought about that method.

The internal button cap cavity measurement is around 11.6mm x 1.25mm with the central post removed on my version but I don’t think that size magnet would work too well through the 0.6mm steel, maybe an 11mm x 2mm N52 would do there but using the original rubber boot would be a problem, you would need to play around with some thin silicone sheet to maintain some waterproofing and maybe make a new small nubbin to get the switch working nicely…

The tail cap button is an awkward size, measuring 14.6mm x 0.35mm at the widest point (retaining lip)

The button part is then 13.88mm x 1.4mm.

So if you had maybe a 14mm x 0.5mm or 1mm magnet JB welded onto a 13mm x 1.5mm magnet that could work with some modification.
Best to file off the nickel coating and clean thoroughly the sides that you’re gluing too.

Something like this:

One good thing about the FW3A is the switch is so easy to access you can play around with different ideas no problem.

dragunbayne · 2019-06-26T12:40:26.000Z

Thanks for the info! That’s a pretty good idea to make the button out of magnets. I definitely want to maintain waterproofing. I love EDC lights that have a tail magnet though. I will play around once mine comes in, which might take a little while.

BOO5TED · 2019-07-09T22:04:10.000Z

Awesome mods CRX, would definitely love a trit tail cap button.