Quite possible, might explain a few things.. :D
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Redesigned rotary switch contact board. 
So, after thinking about the contact board further I realized it had a design flaw so I made a new board :FACEPALM:
The contact points should have minimal space between them to minimize LED flashing effect when changing modes.
Start again, I cut out & drilled a board from the FR4 same as before.
The red circle shows where the sprung brass contact corresponds.
This time I decided to make a small wedged shaped copper piece to help me mark out the contact points on the board, the little hook catches in the centre hole.
Works like this.
Holding the copper marker in place I score the kapton tape with a scalpel blade, move it to the next section leaving a thin gap and repeat then take out the unwanted trace lines and place the board in the ferric chloride solution again.
After a few minutes the board is removed from the solution, cleaned and the remaining kapton removed.
This is a far superior design to the original, I think ;) 
Soldered the contact enclosure posts in place and filed down, sanded & polished the brass centre bolt.
Soldered the brass bolt in place using the M4 nut tightened on the other side to keep it straight then soldered on a 10mm x 8mm x 2mm neodymium ring magnet which fits around the head of the bolt, this will be the negative cell contact.
Anti-surge 1% tolerance resistors soldered onto contact board and holes drilled for vias.
The resistor values are: 1R, 3R3, 15R, 180R, 820R to give five main modes, there will also be another direct drive connection which will double as the neutral charging unit connection.
First test of the rotary switch :-) :THUMBS-UP:
The switch can start from the highest mode or lowest depending on which way it is turned.
