41

Way cool!!! :+1: :slight_smile: :smiley: :beer:

42

I love this rotary switch! I guess the contact rods are round enough to not connect 2 pads at the same time?

43

It’s just one contact rod, the other is only there to balance, has a piece of plastic on the end of the spring.
I did round the end of the brass post slightly but don’t think it matters as the least resistive path will be taken, I’m sure both pads are connected momentarily during rotation, this was partly the reason for remaking the board with larger pads/ minimal gaps, the transition is a lot smoother although doesn’t show that well in the gif.
Still some tweaking to be done on it too but it’s working pretty well as intended.

44

You are right, with the given steps from resistor to resistor you probably won’t even see when 2 of them are connected at the same time.

45

I’ll make a better video when it’s more together.

46

That is super slick CRX! Very nice.

47

Maybe I’ll have to join in on MtnDon’s earlier comment. :+1:

48

Yep, just as I suspected. Definate poisioning… :confounded:

:+1: :beer:

49

CRX never ceases to amaze! :open_mouth:

I would call the contest yours just for that switch. :partying_face:

50

Very good idea as always and a perfect implementation, I always wonder where you get these many and unbelievably good ideas from. But what comes to my mind right now, a Novatac Rotary, a HDS Rotary Killer :wink: :smiley:

51

;)

.

Magnetic pill contact board & wiring.

I decided to use some copper dual sided 1.5mm thick FR4 board here for the pill contact plate.

Marked out, cut the board with snips, filed and smoothed the edges with sharpening stones until made good into a circle.

This disc fits nicely into the brass ring of the pill but protrudes enough to keep the top copper layer clear of contact.

Marked centre circle in pill contact board, drilled a 1.5mm hole and removed some copper from the reverse side to avoid electrical shorts.

20 AWG silicone positive wire end stripped and put through board hole, this will be soldered to the side of the positive contact magnet.
Showing how the pill goes together.

Three 2mm diameter holes drilled in the pill for wires, the negative wire will come out through the side of the pill and be soldered there.
Soldering of a 6mm x 2mm neodymium magnet onto board next to wire for positive contact point.
I used more magnets stacked on the board to keep the ones on front in place and take away some heat as too much heat will demagnetize the delicate rare earth magnets, you got to be quick soldering these!

Wires poked through pill holes, contact board JB welded in place, 20 AWG negative soldered to pill and unit cleaned up.

JB weld applied around positive contact magnet and test :THUMBS-UP:

.

52

INCREDIBLE!!!*

53

Brilliant!:wink:

reminds me of an HDS… except they dont come in copper (they only come in Bronze or Brass) LOL

54

Just awesome.

55

Okay, I have to admit I’m lost have been for a while. I have absolute faith that CRX knows what he’s doing. But I sure don’t! :person_facepalming:

56

+2

57

Making your own multi mode rotary switch from scratch .!!! OMG … :open_mouth:

You’re a true torch building professor :crown:

58

We both agree on something. :slight_smile:

59

Very nice job :+1:

60

Interlocking copper core sections.

Previously made to fit inner core copper tubes.

I cut a 33mm section off the outer core tube and filed ends flat, then cut a 16mm section.

Cut a 25mm section off the inner core tube and marked out slot positions on the ends of both sections.

Cut slots into both ends.

Using the file then flat stones I smoothed off the end sections square...

To make two neatly interlocking inner core tube sections.

The idea being, with the rotary tail switch, the sections will not move when holding the light/ rotating the switch. Most of the inner & outer copper core pieces, exploded view.

Showing interlocking sections and head rubber o-ring placement. Inner body cores roughly put together. The tail end still requires to be shortened to fit the cell & rotary switch.