Leaving 2 AAs behind and stepping into a
…“”'sft 12"“” the host has twist adjustable beam .. what’s your input.on the topic..and don’t be sour
no_motor
(no motor)
2
I think I’ve got a couple of those lights and would be interested to learn what you find out.
L4M4
(L4M4)
3
Well, it’s one of the typically cheap zoom-flashlights that I avoid like the plague because none of them have cooling at all.
Just like yours - the LES touches the pill only on the edge and then the heat gets trapped behind the zoom mechanism
That plus the fake LED, probably no driver and just some resistors or if it has a driver it will be one with at least one blinky mode that you can’t skip.
Like in the other thread - you can put in a proper STF25R or STF12 on 16mm Copper MCPCB and use some thermal paste on the edge to give it at least some more thermal mass before it overheats.
1 Thank
Wingman
4
Just to get a few things clear:
You’re saying:
Does that mean that it originally did run on 2 regular/alkaline (1,5V) batteries? If that would be the case it might directly run from the batteries or it might have a boost driver to get/keep the voltage a bit higher.
Does it have different modes/levels or just ‘on/off’?
Those 14500 batteries: if those came with the flashlight, than it must have either a buck driver or there must be a higher voltage LED being used (than a “standard” 3V), although I’m not sure if a regular 6V LED would like being directly driven at 8,4V (or it bit less due to voltage sag) from 2 fully charged 14500 batteries.
And if there originally was/is a 3V driver in it (for the 1,5V/AA batteries), that’s probably also going to fry.
Given the construction/quality of this light, I highly doubt it would have an expensive buck/boost driver in it.
Just a heads up: that 2500mAh rating on those 14500 is absolutely fake; there isn’t a single 14500 on the market currently, that comes anywhere close to that capacity. Be carefull to charge them to exactly the same voltage before you insert them in the flashlight, because Li-ion in series don’t like different voltages and given the unknown quality of the cells, the risks might be even a bit bigger.
That looks like an Osram PUSRA1.PM LED, also know as the ‘Osram P8’. If that’s the case then it’s probably a 3V LED. If you’re going to swap the LED, I would also swap out the aluminum MCPCB that is currently in it and replace it with a copper MCPCB, just to get better heat transfer, although the fact that the MCPCB still has limited contact area given that the ‘pill’ is hollow.
From your measurement in inches and the looks of the MCPCB, I think that most standard 16mm copper MCPCB’s would fit. (Like the ones Convoy sells for example.)
It only has high and low and yes two double a alkaline
Also looking at purchas. The parts you’re talking about friend
