Cut Down 2D Shortie Maglite with an XML-T6 emitter - 3 Modes

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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I'm doing just a shortie post here...

This is a 2D Maglite that I cut down to use 3AA batteries. (I believe a smart Li-ion type person would substitute with a 26650 or 32650 "C or D" sized Li-ion battery).

sh1

My method of cutting down the barrel was using the human lathe method. I cut out 2" of the center of the body. Then I used a rotary tool to open up the ID of one piece of the barrel and I used files to remove material from the OD of the other piece. The fit was ok. Then I used JB Weld on both pieces to make the joint strong (I added copper filings into the JB Weld, to help conductivity). After that, I drilled three holes in the joint and drove three brass pins in them. Now it's sturdy!

Here's a few shots of the other mods I did to this light and some of the components:

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Crenulated Bezel

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Also modded the tailcap

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Switch is modded to use a Judco switch instead of the stock switch. Much modding was necessary using a rotary tool and a PVC ring to still have a base for the stock rubber cap to sit on.

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Pedestal for the LED, so the light is adjstable just like original

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105C driver 2.8A, set for 3 mode (High, Medium, Low)

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Homemade 3AA Battery holder. Copper, no springs.

And here is the finished light:

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Paint covers the section where it was put together. The black with copper that I normally use.

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List of materials:

2d Maglite Incan

XML-T6 emitter

1-3/8 Aluminum round stock for the heatsink

20ga copper shim

1" round UHMW plastic rod stock for the battery holder

Misc threaded rod, nuts, copper, etc.

SST-50 Reflector (light OP finish)

Glass Lens

105C 2.8A circuit board

Teflon Wire

Judco Switch

Artic Alumina

2 Part Epoxy

JB Weld

Copper trim ring on the head

What else??

Here's a couple indoors beam shots:

low

Low

med

Medium

hi

High

I used a brass pin through the side of the body & thru the aluminum heatsink to make ground for the system. It is just below the threads and can't be seen when the head is in place.

The Judco switch was used, to have control of changing modes.

The beam does not have much spill and a large spot. I hope to be able to do night shots outdoors sometime.

This light goes up for sale, although it does not fit the Budget catagory and may sell better on CPF, but I will list it here first, in case a BLF member wants it.

That's all

Gone - 2D "Shorty" Maglite - XM-L T6 - USA ONLY
Y'all may want to read this before thinking about getting a light from me.
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As usual. Impressive work.

The human lathe stuff impresses me far more than any amount of fancy CNC lathe work.

How long did it take?

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Nice job, O-L!! I especially like the bezel and tailcap mods. Only thing I could use more detail on is your battery holder. I am guessing it's for 3*AA?

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I would estimate that it took about 1 hour to do the ID enlargement with the rotary tool and about the same to do the OD reduction with files.

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That little time? I'm impressed!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Very cool light:)

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3AA yes, and I think someone could mod it with a single “C or D” sized Li-ion. Aren’t those called 26650 and 32650 or something like that?

Anyhow I made the 3AA holder about 65mm in length, thinking someone would rather have a single Li-ion in it.

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Awesome work, as usual.

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+1

Awesome light Old-Lumens.

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Beam shots

For comparison I still have an old SSC-P7 "C" bin, run direct on 3 AA batteries, in a smaller format flashlight.

XML-T6 about 20 yards

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SSC-P7 about 20 yards

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XML-T6 about 75 yards

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SSC-P7 about 75 yards

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XML-T6 20'

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SSC-P7 20'

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The results are disturbing. The little SSC-P7 run on 3AAA batteries direct, outshines the XML-T6 regulated at 2.8A

The XML-T6 deeper reflector does have a much smaller spot, but at a longer distance it isn't noticeable at all.

The SSC-P7 is too blue, but still it's clearly putting out as much or more light than the XML T6.

I have felt before that I am not impressed by XML lights compared to P7s and now I feel I like the old P7 is best. I think my next light will be back to a "D" bin P7 with 4 AA NiMHs Direct Drive. That's the way I used to do them and it was bright as hell!

Oh well, live and learn... and the P7 isn't that blue as it shows in the photos, at least to my eyes, but it is a cooler temp for sure.

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What's you technique for the human lathe method? Which bits are used or files? How do you get it a straight line where it mates up? I did it using a rotary file bit on a drill and it came out quite ugly, but functional.

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A lot of it is experimenting and learning a technique of your own. It’s not precise and it’s not really easy. For enlarging the ID I use a rotary tool and a Dremel #115 bit. This is a 5/16" bit for cutting metal away. I use a slower speed 3-4 on my dial and I work very slowly, taking only a little at a time. I keep turning the body around 1/4 turn at a time and work on that section, rather than to work all the way around at once. I take a magic marker and I run a thin ring on the end, so I can tell if I am getting the depth the same. Once I remove the ano, I use the marker to color the ID, so I know that I am keeping the bit flat inside. How far in? I just use the length of the bit and that’s my gauge. How much to open up? take half the thickness off the inside.

For the outside I just use flat files. I have a variety, but one file is fairly coarse on one side and medium on the other. Also the file needs to have edges that cut. That way you get a good clean edge. Just measure the length of the rotary bit again and start off LESS than that length. So if the ID on one side goes in 1/2", then the OD cut on the other side is less than 1/2", so it will butt together tightly. Again I use masking tape as my guide. I mark the end again with a marker, to judge my progress, so I don't remove too much. I work the file in an arc as I go and turn the barrel often, to "get close" to the depth I want to remove. Then I use a finer file. Filing is the hardest part, since the natural tendency is to hold the file so that too much is removed off the end and not enough where the parting line is going to be. I cannot tell you how to do that. It takes practice to hold a file level and KNOW that you are holding it level.

The fit will not be great, but if you take time and be careful to make it even all the way round, it will come very close and JB Weld is the way to hold it together. I did the brass pins for extra strength and I like the way they hold it together. I know it will not come apart with them.

Cut less, check more. Take it off in stages and check fit. Once too much has been removed, it's over and it can't be fixed.

As far as cutting the barrel? I measure the places I want to cut round the barrel and then I use a line of masking tape all the way around as a cutting guide for the hacksaw. The cut will not be straight! I then put the cut barrel in a vise and just leave a tad up where I can use a broad file to make the edge straight. Filing across the top at different angles and filing down to where the file is hitting both jaws of the vise usually gives a good straithg end. Then a sanding block after that, finishes it off good enough. I use Nicholson Bastard files, 8"-10" some flat single cut, some flat double cut a couple half round. Varying from really coarse to fine.

The JB Weld will fill in any minor variations at that point, when the two peices are joined, by letting it squeeze out the edges and sanding it off later. If it squeezes out on the inside, I just use an exacto knife and run the blade around the inside, to cut the JB Weld off and sand it smooth.

The 2+" I removed was from the knurlde section, so that my joint would be in the knurled section and not show up as much, especially after sanding it smooth and using the textured paint on it.

If I ever do another one, I will make a video, but I just didn't feel good enough to go through that.

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Awesome work! I’m very interested in the home made 3AA holder, do you have any more details?

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Welcome to the monkey house, Loris!

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I didn’t expect to hear that at all. My P60s side by side (XML and P7) is definitely in favor of the former, but maybe the P7s can be pushed harder? And here everyone is incessantly praising these XMLs. Why don’t you mod more of these then?

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P7 Still $20 - T6 $6 Only reason