Cutting traces on MCPCB Questions

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I have an idea that would require converting a quad 4 parallel emitter mcpcb board into an mcpcb that has all emitters in series. This is probably quite difficult to achieve without all kinds of places shorting through to the copper base. I believe member @djozz did something similar years ago and he had problems but did succeed (I think).

See another thought down below**

Three questions.
(1) what is the best way to cut a trace to isolate sections of the traces on the mcpcb?

(2) Does what I have drawn on the mcpcb in the picture make sense? The 4 white lines represent where the traces would be cut. The 4 blue lines represent the resulting series conductive path of continuity from the + connection from the driver to the - connection from the driver.

The black +/- signs indicate the polarity of the to-be-installed emitters and the white dot with the - sign would have to have the solder mask removed to be able to connect to the copper trace. The green +/- is where the wires to the driver would connect.

On looking/thinking again I believe I would relocate some of those trace cuts to reduce their length.

(3) How to best remove the solder mask without damaging the underlying copper trace?

**Another thought and questions. I have never designed a circuit board of any kind since decades ago when I made custom boards for various electronics projects. I know Oshpark can produce driver-type boards but have no idea if they or anyone else can produce copper boards with DTP suitable for LEDs.

Thoughts? Critique? Better ideas? I should give it up?
Thanks

Or try to align 4 x 10mm mcpcb correctly to fit the quad Ledil Angie optic?

2 Thanks
2

Looks like the 33mm Noctigon. Order the 4P version and then email Hank to request it be the 4S version. This MCPCB is used in the D4SV2 with the boost option.

3

I have cut traces on MCPCBs many times, I don’t think I ever had traces shorted to the base.
What I do is cut two line close to each other with the tip of a sharp blade, I do a few passes and when I feel enough has been cut I peel off from one end the copper strip between the two cuts.

Your wiring looks good.

For removing the mask I either use a small chisel or the end of a rounded blade.

JLCPCB does and I’m pretty sure is the cheapest service that does DTP MCPCB, but as @quahog said, you can get the 4S D4S MCPCB from Emisar directly.

4

Oh damn! I didn’t think of the fact that there might be a series version because the D4SV2 has a boost option. That would be so much quicker… though I might like to try trace cutting as I have thought about it. Thank you. It always pays to ask questions. Maybe I’ll try cutting on the mcpcb I have as a trial. :smile:

:man_facepalming:

5

Still worthwhile to have a thread on - I’ve thought about making a 3/1 dual channel light before (have seen a few modded ones posted on reddit) which would need to cut and bridge some traces and I’m definitely interested in the right way to do it.

1 Thank
6

A 3/1 D4v2 in white/red would be so much nicer than the 2/2, channel 1 could be FET enabled for output if using LEDs that will survive the current.