Go for the Efest 10440 batteries! They are great little batteries and are of the IMR type that needs a very high temperature before thermal runaway occurs. In fact I mistreated (overheated by using high current until empty in a tiny flashlight) one already to the point that something bursted and brown gooey cam out, but nothing catastrophic happened.
I'd be way more scared of a protected 'Singfire' than of an unprotected Efest.
I’m happy with efest 10440 on my I3S and others flashlights, but for the DQG you need a Top button battery and the efest is a flat Top. Not usable with the DQG that you comment.
A low-quality batter that happens to be “protected” is not necessarily safer than a high-quality one that isn’t. It would take pretty serious abuse to blow up an Efest 10440.
I put a little dollop of solder on each of mine to serve as a button top. Works a lot better than the flashlight I put them in.
Is there any way to get the Efests to work without soldering? I already bought a few and I don’t have a soldering iron and don’t really want to bother with one.
With the big red flag that if the little magnet slips slightly sideways it short-circuits the battery positive terminal to the shell of the flashlight.
Highly not recommended.
With a cell this small remember soldering onto the positive terminal is also highly not advised by the battery manufacturer.
Wear eye protection, work outdoors, and remember, don’t inhale if it vents.
There sometimes are things you just have to let go of fiddling with. This might be one.
Well, after some months using the DQG twisty, i have to say i’m quite disappointed: the light is flickering a lot and it’s getting harder each day to find the tiny spot that switch the flashlight on.
I’m not either convinced by the tight OFF feature as it doesn’t seem to do anything good to the threads and i often have the feeling i’m forcing it…
I’m using an EFEST 10440 V2 so battery is not the problem.
Flickering is often a sign of a bad ground somewhere. Sometimes due to a loose wire or if the driver is soldered in and had a cold joint or there is loose debris from milling causing an intermittent short and bypassing the led. The ends of small cells are weak so over tightening can dimple B- and cause a disconnect.