Do you think it might be possible to do this without too much hairpulling? I keep thinking about this light but the LED puts me off (as does the battery cage and styling). From a modding perspective, it’s more accessible than the EA4.
I asked Sunwayman about their NW tint but to be honest I don’t really want another NW either. I’d rather have higher CRI.
I recently asked in another thread how others were using XPG emitters with XML reflectors and getting them to work. They seem to be making it work.
From my understanding, XPG/E as well as the 219 work well with each others reflectors/optics.
And the XML works well with the XRE reflectors.
I had a 119 (similar to 219) modded in a light with an XML reflector and to get it to focus correctly with no donut hole, it had to be put back further away from the reflector causing some light loss from the back end.
I did not like having this wasted light and ended up using an optic made for the XPG/E and it worked out well.
That said, I’m by no means a modder and will of course bow to others answers here as they have more experience/skills
I hope this helps.
There is a D40A for me in the mail somewhere and I am going to try to put a new emitter in it (XM-L2 5B1 tint, 80+ CRI), I will update how that works out.
Because the led board is directly mounted on the body somewhere deep inside, and I expect it to be glued in, I fear for trouble getting the board out, to the extent of destroying the board and having to fiddle another one in (the original board has an odd size).
Putting a Nichia 219 in may be troublesome, the XM-L2 emitter is driven at around 3A current, and depending on how the driver functions it will either push that 3A through the poor Nichia (that even on copper has maximum output at only about 2.5 A current, but on a traditional type board it is max at 1.8A), or because of the high Vf of the Nichia it will supply less which is for the better. Either way you loose a lot of light compared to the stock flashlight (more than 60%).
Ahh, I see. That is rather a lot of loss. 
Wasteful really.
Thank you both! I look forward to your mod too, djozz!
D40A LED board is not glued, it has thermal compound only. You should be able to remove it fairly easily. It is quite big though so you will need considerable heat to reflow the emitter.
I would recommend sticking with an XM-L class emitter due to the current (right around 3A). An XP-G2 on copper would work in theory, if the reflector plays nice with it. Nichia 219 is not much good above 2A, even on copper.
I will be swapping in a warmer tint in mine when they arrive. The thermal performance of this light is so nice, I will not bother with a copper star. It seems to be just as good already.
Thanks relic for the info, that will be a super-easy mod then, just reflowing a new led on the old board 
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ok, I promised to give an update on the mod (simple emitter swap, well, it looked simple). Just tried to start with it... and it is 1-0 for Sunwayman I'm afraid: I tried to unsolder the led wires, and even with the 40W iron, neatly pretinned with a small blob and everything, the solder would not melt, apparantly they used a high melting point solder, or the heatsinking is much faster than that of a Sinkpad. Anyone else tried it with more succes? Anyway, giving up for tonight, have to collect some courage to just cut the wires, lengthen them a bit and after the emitter swap (who knows what goes wrong there... :-( ) solder them to the pads on the other side.
Was the base screwed down when you tried to unsolder?
If you didn't already, you could try to lift that base so the heat can't escape into the flashlight body.
EDIT: I just used my magnifier app on my home pc. That looks like a copper base. Looking at the traces, it looks like it probably doesn't have a dielectric layer. If that is the case, that is great. Now I need to copy your mod. I have 5 of those emitters waiting be used. Thanks for sharing it.
Does anyone know what tint is in the xml2 light stock? Seems to be on the cooler side of NW.
The stock led is on a aluminum board… To remove it I just cut the leads…
That's a bummer. Then that base looks horrible because I don't see any trace coming out from under the thermal pad to spread out the heat to the aluminum. Sinkpad or equivalent time.
Just received 2 of these from IS to use as a dome light in the Elf.
Ooh, warm XM-L2 and only 2 CRI difference to Nichia 219 4500K. Have you used these before? What do you think of the tint?
I haven’t even put one on a pcb yet but just thought it might feed your craving for CRI while still using an XML.
Thanks! I might even like the tint better than the stock NW. I find the 3B a bit cold for my taste in my Convoy S5. Though I am less interested in AA lights now. >.<
Ill share my impression. :) They are a bit yellowish. As can be seen by the 7D3.
I prefer the brighter, slightly less warmer, and slightly less yellow toned 7A3, with 80 CRI minimum.
Its not that easy to see the difference between 80 CRI minimum and 90 CRI in the WW range IMO.
Check LED Database for more 80+ CRI emitters.
Thanks, RaceR86! I am mainly thinking of outdoors suitability, greens and browns. But it is interesting, CRI and tint.
At lower light levels I find (relatively) warm and high CRI like in halogen not so useful as a task light, somehow I prefer cooler LED even if it washes things out a little. But for an indoor night light I’d prefer warmer light…
Im certainly with you on WW high CRI for comfortable indoor lighting. I also like WW for dark caves and such. Makes them more "cosy". :)
The "5" tints with 80 CRI minimum are quite desirable as a compromise between everything for a general purpose light (5B1 /5D2).