I picked up the 5W and 1W units - will post pics shortly. I took the 5W apart; CREE LED on a star with a removable pill, comes with 3D Heavy Duty batteries which I thru away and installed Energizer Max’es. Fairly deep reflector.
I bought the 5 watt one at my local Auto Zone. 5 watter has a very heavy pill 20mm star, 20mm driver, probably an xp-g emitter, plastic 54mm lens (but will take a 55). Hey, guys this is a 10 dollar very moddable light, I ordered two more J) J) Hellava nice aluminum (not plastic) reflector, od 50mm, 44mm start of parabolic, 44mm deep, nice reflector. Stock batteries, 1.4 amps high, .30 amps low. On one Moli 26700, 1.45 amp, .35 amp.
I had one of these in my hands today and put it back, started for the door and turned around and picked it back up. Didn’t buy it though because I put it back down again! Now that I have seen it apart, I going back tomorrow and buy it, and no one is going to stop me, not even myself.
Yeah, and knowing your luck your store will have it marked down to $1.49! :)
Does look very nice. Pill looks very good. I assume there is solid surface under the emitter star? (i.e. it's not hollow.). How about just an XM-L emitter swap if you're sticking to alkalines? If the driver has next-mode memory, the capacitor is easy enough to identify and put an appropriate resistor across.
I don't think a driver upgrade will do you much good for Alkaline use. It's probably already direct-drive on high which is what you want for max output on alkalines. Wait - can't be direct drive since Flo measured output above on a 26700 and still had about same current. Perhaps someone could speak up on how to jump resistors for direct drive output on high.
Garry, No one can be that lucky, I am starting to believe I have the POWER! :bigsmile:
BTW this light may have a driver similiar to the DST. Remember that one! It too was limited on high but there was a simple move of the wire. First thing I would do is check for continuity from the spring to here. (from trace30 pic)
If there is continuity and you moved the wire now going to L+ you should get direct drive. Because I have not yet picked one up, and this is your first mod, you should wait until I or someone else can confirm that this is a good thing to do.
Also, from what you have described it seems that it would be possible to merely change the LED to an XM-L2 U2 with no problems other than the driver may not be able to survive passing current to such a powerful LED.
If it is possible to convert to Direct Drive, the current driver would not be used, as is is being bypassed after the conversion. I doubt 3 D cells could drive enough current to cause any overheating of the LED and pill.
I just bought one and though it looks well made on the outside, the threads are worse than the typical Chinese lights I have. The head to battery tube (and pill) are about as sloppy as it can be without easily stripping. With only 0.1mm thread engagement (on mine) and only 4 1/2 of them, I’m afraid to tighten it very much. It feels like the peaks of the threads begin to wedge together. A good whack up side an assailant’s head would probably cock the head. The tail cap isn’t quite as bad but still sloppy. Also, the O-rings seem useless because of little or no contact.