Ive read several post where members were doing a mod to permanently disable the tailight on the X5/X6 to prevent battery drain. I also saw where TK said one option was to just unscrew the tailcap a little(1/4 turn) to break contact when the flashlight was not being used. I thought this was the best solution for me since it was easy to disengage and I liked having the tailight work when I did need the light.
I have 2-X6s and 2-X5s and with all but one(a Copper X5 SC), this method works great. But the SC tailight comes on as soon as it comes in contact with the body(no threads). I tried the Alum X5 tailcap on the Copper X5 and the tailight does not come on until the cap is fully screwed on.
I dont really know, but it seems it may have something to do with spring length. Is it possible to shorten or maybe compress the spring permanently to make it shorter or should I consider replacing the spring?
Any suggestions on what I can do to make the Copper SC tailight behave like my other Alum X5/X6s.
Thanks for your suggestions!
The copper tail cap is bare metal in the thread area, as soon as it touches the threads the contact is made. The aluminum light has anodized threads, breaking the electrical connection until the light is fully assembled.
The threads on the aluminum lights are anodized and do not conduct electricity. The negative battery connection is made between the shiny bare aluminum at the end of the battery tube and the brass ring inside the tailcap. Slightly loosening the tailcap breaks this connection.
The threads on the copper light are allowing electricity to flow as soon as you begin to install the tailcap. This light cannot be locked out by loosening the tailcap.
You can add a second LED to the tail switch board and then add a resistor to make 12K in resistance, this will give a low glow and about 0.14mA draw which should take months to really impact the cell.
Thanks Goshdogit.
Ive seen the term ‘locked out’ used several times and I looked it up in terminology but I still dont really understand what it means. Can you explain?
When you break the electrical contacts by separating the two metal surfaces, you have “locked out” the light so it can’t be turned on accidentally. It’s a preferred way to carry a light in a backpack, bikers bag, or purse. Usually on an aluminum light with anodized threads, simply unscrewing the tail cap a 1/8 of a turn or so makes it impossible to turn on the light. “Locked out”
Naaa, the tiny little LED’s used on the switch board cost pennies, as do the resistors. I can send you a blue or pink led and a 12K resistor, won’t take you 2 minutes to put em on the board, bingo!
I really appreciate the offer, but I am still too apprehensive to do any modding yet……. Im still in the “if it works, dont fix it mode”. I think I will just enjoy them as they are until I can learn a little more.
Thanks again
Coscar, my wife is from Mississippi as well, making a 40 mile triangle between Pascagoula and Mobile. Send me your tail cap and I’ll fix it. 4 days from having it back, maybe 5.
