Haven’t been around a huge amount lately. Had a busy period over the last few weeks so my flashlights have actually just been used for their intended purpose for once, rather than pulled apart and altered!
Anyway, I’m getting a little bored, have a few bits and pieces on the way but one thing which has always been on my mind was regretting choosing a 1C tint when I ordered my XinTD C8 from IOS.
So since I have a spare T4 5B1 on a Noctigon sitting here I thought it would be a good opportunity to swap it out. Then I thought, why not just direct drive it….
So what do you think? Will this host paired with an XM-L2 on a Noctigon be okay for DD?
Batteries which I have spare are Trustfire Flames, Panasonic NCR18650B protected and unprotected and Panasonic NCR18650A protected. I am thinking the best option would be to use the Flames as I would assume they won’t be able to deliver as much current as the Panasonic’s? Or could I just go ahead and use the protected NCR18650A???
I have four Tangsfire C8s with east-92 drivers, so they’re all on DD on high. You’re fine with a Noctigon. The cells you have won’t really deliver the oomph you deserve. Get some high drain cells like the Samsung 20A or Sony 30A. I’m using the Sony 30A and seeing 4.5A to 5A with no problem at all.
I have a XinTD in the mail from IOS, and will DD or pop in an east-92.
Ouchy is right. It is really hard for a single cell to put out 5amps for very long. A person is lucky to get mid 4s on DD drivers. Fasttech has some new East-92s, supposed to be good for the 4 amp range — I have some coming in the mail, and will see if they are the “good ones.” I also have this:
Nah, you’ll be lucky to see 5a, I don’t believe its even possible to see noctigon killing current on a single cell, not with cells currently available.
The PDs are good cells. Don’t worry about the LED. If it’s on a Noctigon it won’t be bothered at all. In the day and age of Noctigons, 4A is the new 2.8A.
I just tested my C8 with a charged Panasonic PD on DD with an east-92 and got a reading of about 3.4A.
Even with my Sony 30A, it starts between 4.5 and 5A, fully charged, but drops down to 3.5A in no time at all.
Edit: The springs on my C8 have been copper braided, but the emitter wires haven’t been upgraded.
It is impossible to kill a xml2 or even a xpg2 by direct driving it with one li-ion, if it is on copper, and medium proper mounting allows for reasonable heatsinking.
I really tried: A8-clone with xml2 (5B1 80cri) on copper, directly wired the battery to the led with thick wires, copper braided it all, took extra care that the switch-lip was solder connected directly to the braided spring, Efest 26650 IMR battery. It works like a charm, but still under 5A (1150 lumens OTF).
My Small Sun ZY-T08 was running an XM-L2 U2 1C on a 20mm Noctigon direct drive with 22 AWG wire on two Pana. PFs! I had also copper braided the tailcap springs. It still only pulled around 6.5 amps due to the high vF. I don't know what two 20Rs would have done, I never dared try it. I ran it like that for hours and hours before I put a qlite in it and sold it to a friend. Very bright!
I checked the A8-clone (Ultrafire LLZ something, it is even not written on the body, nice host though) again, battery well charged, but not completely full. Now, the tail current (without switch) was 5.45A, still not enough to kill a xml2 or a xpg2
(The OTF output without tail switch (battery minus 'shorted' to body with piece of wire) 30 seconds after turn on was 1270 lumen. With the switch in place output was 1160 lumen, so this mod could do with some 'tofty'-like switch :-) I may go and look for an AR-reflector as well, would be another 60 lumen extra.)
