DIY Anodizing

That looks great. The knurling looks awesome from here. Will you be using the tube ends to make electrical contact (since you will be anodizing the threads)?

I thought that too 4Wheelr, perhaps the threads could be masked off before anodizing in order to keep the tube from being ultra picky about cell length?

I always wanted to try some anodizing, but way back when, I watched the result of someone mixing battery acid and water, in the wrong sequence. Took a couple months to get the bandages off and he still is a complete wreck (visual scars), to this day. I decided then, that it was not a hobby for me. Just be very careful when doing the at home stuff with battery acid. One mistake can destroy the rest of your life as you know it.

Great question! I had not thought about it, but I suppose I will be using the tube ends. I cut the threads deeper than normal (pretty much OEM threading) to see how much the ano tightens them up, so I don't want to mask them off. I don't know how to mask them anyway.

I forgot to add that this is largely just an experiment on my part. I don't even have any 16500 batteries to try it out with. If it turns out ok, I would probably trade it for a Qlite with enough stacked 7135's on it to make over 6 amps. I've ruined every one that I tried so far. I've been frustrated with driver issues. I wish there were more options over 5 amps out there.

OL, I am very careful with this stuff. Safety glasses and shield. Full clothing with everything buttoned. The only things exposed are my hands. I can't work in gloves.

I hear you there. I really hate stacking 7135's. This option looks promising, but I just haven't had the time to read the thread yet. Comfy is doing some stuff that seems might lead to some options as well.

I'm done anodizing the part. It came out dark grey straight out of the acid bath. That is good news. HAIII is dark grey at that point while type II is shiny natural aluminum in color.

I'm dying it, then sealing. I'll have pictures in a bit.

I’ve found the sealing process leaches some of the color, comes out lighter than it went in. See if it happens that way for you as well.

I kinda like stacking chips. So far 24 on a Qlite is the most I’ve done, I’ve got 22 on my C8 with Ryan’s pill, 24 on my HD2010 with Ryans pill. Forgot how many I put on the M8 with your Cu. Looks like 18, if it’s double stacked inside. Might be 22 as it is making 6.77A. (It’s 18, just did the math and remember how close actual came out to the math)

I’ve got the copper polished and Rennaisance waxed on that one. :slight_smile: It’s Purdee! Letting the C8 Cu age…

Here we go!

Just FYI, I used 3.5 amps for 46 minutes for a calculated 32 amps per square foot.

Fresh out of the H2SO4 bath.

After dying and sealing. Dale, sealing did leach some color. I didn't take a pic between dying and sealing unfortunately.

It's harder to see in the pictures, but there is a bit of fading at the bottom of the knurl grooves. It still looks good though. I am ecstatic!

Looks really good Buck, how does it match up to the Convoy tube? Man, that’s gotta feel good! lol

Ready to do it a hundred more times? :wink:

I'm out and about on the phone so keeping it short.

It threads into the C8 perfectly.

Great looking piece. I agree with your earlier comment that about a single long tube but this extension has the benefit of allowing the use of 1 x 18350, 1 x 18650, 2 x 18350, or 2 x 18500. Maybe a slip ring to cover ther gaposis? It doesnt seem like there’s enough wall thickness to have knurling extend all the way over to the other tubes knurling.

Scott, the OEM tube has a shoulder where it meets up to the head, hence the break between the two. Convoy made it such that it could be put in between the head and tail piece in either direction, or at least it’s made the same externally…they recessed inside the tube to cover the driver area of the pill with each end being non-anodized.

Looking good Bucket. You are more than likely aware of this but Caswells sells a product that you can paint on to stop the anodizing in that area.

I was not aware. Thank you. Looking it up now

It’s the same on my M1. I think that having the knurled sections mate without a gap would require a lot of extra work. Probably easier to mill a whole new two piece tube if that kind of versatility and looks are required.

This is it. comes in several sizes. I have an 8 oz tin that will last a 100 years if I ever use it.

I found it. I wonder how it differs from regular lacquer.

Does anyone have suggestions for a reasonable method to test for surface hardness? What should HAIII be able to stand up to? What should Type II be able to take? I'll be testing inside the bore.

Speaking of bore, here's a shot that I forgot taking.

On another note, here is a graph of voltage over time. As mentioned before, current was held constant at 3.5 amps.

I put the sealing water back in it's jug. It is pretty dark. Definitely some leaching going on. I'm going to let the part come to a full boil in the dye and call that sealed next time.