Flashlight 1
compact
wide angle/ flood lighting
3 mode
1 inch OD tube
that runs on a single 18700 or 18650
lots and lots of lumens
Flashlight 2
I want this flashlight to be more of a thrower with a narrow column of light for long distance use.
again 3 mode
I would like for this to be a 1 inch OD tube as well
this can run on 2 18650s
obviously lots of lumens here too
Problem is I have no idea where to start. I see there are tons of options out there. LED options. Driver options. Optics options.
If yall could give me some tips or personal opinions on how to put these lights together I’d really apreciate it. :bigsmile:
Flashlight 1 could be done simply as a mule my mounting the led without a reflector of any kind. For that purpose an XM-L would probably be the best. For the driver you just need a 3 mode driver of some kind. I'm not sure what the best type for that is.
I built the grey version of this one for Richie086 with a 3C XML and a custom 5 mode Nanjg 105 driver. It was really nice except for the switch which was only rated for 1 amp so I upgraded it.
Wesco, consider also the SolarForce hosts at the link below. The L2 (L2, L2p, L2m, L2r, L2i, L2T) series are worthy of consideration. I understand SolarForce supplied parts for the quite expensive SureFire flashlights. The L2 bodies will fit most or all parts for SureFire 6P flashlights - so you have a wider selection of options out there in the marketplace.
Note that these use 18650 batteries. Hosts start about $10, and there are a few cool stainless steel versions, bezels, and other options to build some dynamite lights. They also take readily available P60 style drop ins and have extension tubes to add more power (like 2x18650).
Following the link above, please check out the L2M - it is one of the more pocket friendly hosts, and is a great deal at $13.
Making your own drop-in is another nice way to dip your toe into the modding pool, or you can acquire one from our resident drop-in kingE1320
The Solarforce cells sold from that site are also of very good quality, using a Sanyo core. I would stick to a Panasonic- or Sanyo-based cell, as lesser makes can cause headaches.
Please check out safe Lithium-Ion handling procedures, and procure a Digital Multi-Meter at your earliest convenience - it will make for safe cell usage, easy troubleshooting, and current measurements.
@wesco forgive me if i’m wrong but are you thinking of building these lights from scratch? Talking about tubing and stuff reminds me of what i’m doing which is building a compact close/medium range flashlight to my design using low cost parts. My inspiration is the zebralight h51w, but i cannot afford the money they command, if i did have the cash for one in the pocket i would probably go out in my caddy and blow it all on petrol and still have no light lol. So far i have a working prototype that does ~220lumens regulated for 4hours or press switch for 1second to give ~1 lumen for 1000hours. Clipped on the lip of a baseball cap it is the best work light i’ve ever used. It will be a long time before it is finished due to being a first build and having to figure everything out as it progresses.
oh deal lord…now i konw why this stuff gets expensive lol. It starts with one light… then you want something different and you cant find it or if you do its too expensive… then next thing you know you have 5 lights then 10… oh boy… I might be a lumaholic…
What switch did you use and where can I find one. I jumped the gun and baught the componants for this light before the rest of the comments had time to come in. I might build it and see if I like if if not I konw I have a co-worker that would be interested in buying it.
I am not sure were I got the switch I have a bag full of spare switches so I could have got anywhere. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful I have ordered switches from all the budget sites.
You could try these switches from Manafont (I bought some). I used one in a Mag build which is running (2) 18650's for 3.2A to the LED. Other's have used these as well. I can't vouch for them fitting this host though. Oh, almost forgot my manners - Welcome to BLF!
I've been wondering where D.I.C.K. came from! Makes sense now!
For what its worth I purchased these, http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451 for a replacement on my HD2010 and the switch itself was identical to the original switch. The board was a larger diameter that was easily ground down though. Surprisingly the replacement was a lot smoother in operation. On the switch itself they are only rated at 1.5 amps at 250 volts. Correct me if I'm wrong but it does not matter what voltage is used 1.5 amps is still 1.5 amps?