Hi All, I’m brand new to BLF. This is my first post!
I have an old UniqueFire G10 that was a gift from my late father.
The only way I can get it to light is to short the cap against the tube.
I am a klutz at soldering and am at a loss on how the fix my G10.
Does anyone in the forum fix lights? or know someone who does?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
Phil
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Had to goggle it to be sure, but already figured the age meant a tailswitch.
Need to get a replacement tailswitch, is all.
Problem is that places like Fasttech are long gone.
Likely not much soldering, and a handy yute might be able to do it if you get the right switch and toss him a few bux for the trouble.
Might be a switch to solder to a board, or a complete switch that you just, say, push in and hold it in place with the retaining ring.
Maybe someone can recommend a place that sells similar switches. Would be good as new if so.
Recommend carefully taking apart the tailcap and putting up pix. Might be a visual match to something.
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Based on your description. I would guess the switch needs to be replaced.
It most likely uses a fairly standard style switch.
Can you take it apart and get some pictures of the tail end?
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Before hunting for parts, do the 30-second check: take the tailcap off and short the end of the battery tube to the battery negative with a bit of wire - if the light fires up, the switch is your culprit (most “dead” old lights are). If not, try a fresh cell and clean the driver contacts before blaming anything else.
For replacements, Convoy’s own store on AliExpress still carries a good range of tail switches and complete clicky assemblies for a couple of dollars, and Kaidomain stocks switch boards and retaining rings. Measure the switch diameter and note whether it solders to a board or drops in whole, then match that. Second the suggestion above - a few clear tailcap photos and people here can point you at the exact part.
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I’m guessing that the way he phrased it, that’s what he did, not with a wire, but using the edge of the tailcap to bridge negative to the tube.
I’ve done that a bunch of times. If not that, then with the clip, scissors, anything conductive.
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Well, we established for a fact that the trouble is somewhere in the tailcap.
That leaves one question unanswered. Does it have a switch with a retaining ring or is it press fit? Or worse: soldered in.
Try making a picture of the under/inside of the tailcap to see if it that reveals something.
Edit: did some gog*****. My guess is this is a relative chunky budget AA light was sold by companies like DealExtreme around 2012/2013.
There might have been at least two versions of it: a one mode, and a six mode.
It could have been a dual-fuel light but there are posts that the 14500 part only lasted seconds.
The fact it is called a “firm” AA light suggests there is room for a tailswitch with a retaining ring.
IF there is a retaining ring, it’s worth a try to see if that ring has come loose (a common issue).
IF it is loose, try to fasten it. You might use circlip pliers, needle nose pliers, or just two sharp SS nails.
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Based on google images, it does look like the switch has an aluminum retaining ring that uses circlip pliers.
As mentioned above, see if that is loose.
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Helloooo! I could not find images like these. Most of them were deleted with the ending of the subscription on the hosting site or faint Photobucket images.
I certainly can see something of a circlips ring in the parts on the left side, not so on the right side. But the quality of the “stub” in the tailcap suggests a switch of a reputable brand. And therefore some type of retaining ring. Which can lead to a way to tighten that ring.
Unfortunately lights in that era had (not always) a custom made spring on the belly side of the rather common available switch. Pressing against the inside of that stub. But that’s only an issue if the switch itself is broken, rather than just sitting loose.
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Here’s a better picture that shows what I believe are the divots where the retaining ring tool goes.
I’ve worked on a few lights over the years that use this type of switch. Sometimes they’re semi-proprietary, and often use a switch similar to a mcclicky. Not too long ago I dug a light out of my graveyard that had a similar switch. None of the switches I had on hand would fit it, but I was able to get it going again. I just cleaned all of the contact points with 99% alcohol and tightened up the retaining ring and everything seemed to work
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Look like you’re right. All the owner has to do is to dug out some needle nose pliers and give that ring a twist.
Or, as is my signature answer, two SS nails with a sharp point.
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check mountain electronics maybe? they have lots of parts to look at
I like how the second image makes the anodizing look like a type 3 satin finish lol
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Thanks for all the comments/suggestions. The pictures Savagemann posted are exactly what I have. I was going to post my own pix but yours are much better.
I also researched DX which is where I got the G10. It was sold as a dual battery but I saw all the posts about Li-ions burning it up. I used it for a long time both with AA and with Li-ion. It still works with AA batteries just not with the 14500. I guess that means the clicky is good?
I tried tightening both ends with my pin spanner but they were tight.
Can it be that the just the Li-ion burned but not the AA?
Thanks for your help!
Phil
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Sounds like the switch is good if it still works with the AA.
How old is the 14500?
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Good question. Both the 14500 and the AA are new and test fully charged.
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That weird.
Is there much difference in the physical length of the 2 batteries?
The 14500 is 51mm long, the aa is 50mm long.
The 14500 used to work until it got lost in a drawer. When I found it again is doesn’t light with the 14500 (except when I short it against the tube). It was stored without a battery inside.
I may have found a solution!!!
I went back and recleaned the contacts at both ends of the tube. No change (of course).
Then I thought about your question about the length of the batteries. In your pictures the tail end doesn’t have a spring but rather a contact and the spring is hidden inside the cap assembly. I played with it for a while wondering about battery length and strength of contact.
When I reassembled the light with the 14500 it now works!
The only thing I can think of is that the spring inside the cap was oxidized or something and my playing with it cleaned it up. Or maybe some ting else happened…
For the moment it works! Hurrah!
Do you have any ideas of where I could buy a replacement tail cap?
Thanks, Phil
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