Does tint bin matter less at warmer temps, (like 3500k and below)?

Curious as it seems like there wouldn’t be much green left in the spectrum at that point, which is what most folks want to avoid.

So is it as important to have a bin below the bbl on a WW light?

Same question here. I’m thinking of buying a warm white XP-L HI or SST20, and I’d like to avoid headaches.

> is it … important to have a bin below the bbl…?

to me yes, I want tint below the BBL at least for lights I use after dark

tint above the BBL at warm CCT is yellowish instead of greenish… to me both are less appealing than tint below the BBL, at any CCT

for lights I use during the day, tint above the BBL is not as much of a concern, because sunlight also has (green) tint above the bbl

I would not use a Warm light during the day though, so for those I definitely prefer tint below the BBL

I usually google for posts by maukka and djozz for measurements, and look for duv that is a negative number

no personal experience with the LEDs you mention
Im still using Nichia 219b

the 219c is above the bbl :

note the D55 daylight reference, its CCT is 5500k, and the duv is 0.0032, above the BBL.
This is essentially what photographers call daylight white balance. At that white balance, green tint is not very noticeable, but down below 5000k the BBL is based on incandescent, which is less green than sunlight… I want my nightime LED to have tint no greener than incandescent. During the day I just dont want it to be greener than sunlight.

that means a 219c can be fine, and not look too green, during times when my brain is adapted to daylight. it also means my daytime CCT will be closer to 5500k… at night my 3000k incandescent house lights make me appreciate Warm LEDs, more like firelight.

Depends only which LED and which reflector also.
Stuff like XHP50.2 can look seriously unappealing due to the typical dual tint that CREE LEDs have, but this LED can have a serious triple tint in some
reflector (hotspot, corona, spill)
So which LED and which reflector/optic can also have an impact how the tint is perceived, so with some LEDs it is all out terrible.

Should have a KR4 with 3000K SST20 showing up in a few days. Assume it will be fine, expect it would be the same HB4 bin as the bare leds that are listed for sale on the site. If I’m reading the chart right, that bin would likely be below or very close to the line. Plus as referenced in the OP, I have a harder time seeing much difference between bins in the 3000k zone than something like 5000k.

Not exactly sure what’s in my Sofirn SF36 or the LT1, but I like them both a lot.


There is still significant green in the spectrum at warm CCT’s, and as a more general response, the deviation from the black body locus is still perceptible, so it is meaningful to talk about what we each find preferable.

I would call tint variations less objectionable at the warm end of the spectrum, but it is still definitely still my preference to have have neutral or negative DUV.

My personal perception, based on a couple lights I have around 3000K, is that increasing positive DUV, instead of appearing green, takes on more of a yellow or brown hue - I actually describe a ~2800K high CRI XM-L2 that I have as “lemon-flavored.”

In contrast, neutral or negative DUV’s around 3000K appear to me as more golden or creamy.

Here’s an image I found that helps illustrate this, although at close to 3300K, it’s getting up in the area where there is some greenish perception.

Image Source

Thanks all, good food for thought.

Tint (DUV) is more noticeable for warmer CCT than cooler CCT.

Reading more about the BBL and DUV, the pieces are starting to fall into place. It’s more significant than just “tint” preferences, isn’t it? :partying_face: :+1:

Don’t know about tint but I’d say CRI matters more at warmer temperatures…for light bulbs anyway.