You broke my heart, now I'll break your bones!
You broke my heart, now I'll break your bones!
Sticks and stones may break my bones but Nightcrawl will never hurt me. :D
Artic Alumina, it is a thermal glue.
Got It! Thanks… I’m a little old & slow… I just have 3 tubes of it laying on the bench… just hadn’t seen the AA abbreviation I guess. :Sp
Thanks Again To All who helped! Dan.
Trying to figure out how to take beamshots in the BLF preferred manner but not there yet. My camera should be able to do it (Nikon D50), guess I just need more practice. At any rate, these were all taken at the same settings: f 3.5, 1/125 sec, white balance direct sunlight but I can’t figure out how to take the ISO setting off auto.
All three lights @ 3a at the tailcap, lights about 6 feet from the door.
Intl-Outdoor neutral white P60
Looking at the tints I wonder if LEDSupply sent me warm and neutral instead of neutral and cold as stated on my receipt. I see they only list warm and neutral on their site now. It really doesn’t matter to me because I just wanted to try making the drop ins. I prefer the cooler of the two whichever tint it is.
I really need to hone my soldering skills and try the drivers again, I think these are under-driven at only 1a per LED.
Keep this a secret - Next time go to your local plumbing store/ Home Depot/Leow's and locate 3/4 x 1/2 copper "bushing". They differ in size from slug to slug but 4/5 can be pressed into a SF host with your thumb. The height is very close but you can easily hand polish one end for perfect fit. Reason? The copper slug/bushing is close to solid except for a 3-4mm hole in the center and weighs 5 times as much as the rod your using. File one end enough to counter sink your NJG driver and i use some old copper pennies soldered on the business end and drill a hole in the presidents nose to run wire... No need for P60 parts and the pill is 75% solid copper mass and press fit to your host, no springs. I like a aluminum bezel to protect the optics and LEDs but not necessary. Next, im trying something new (for me) I'll machine fins into the same copper pill to see if less copper and increased air circulation will perform better. I'll attach pics if anyone wants to see what the heck im talking about..And if its OK with this threads OP...
Keep this a secret - Next time go to your local plumbing store/ Home Depot/Leow’s and locate 3/4 x 1/2 copper “bushing”. They differ in size from slug to slug but 4/5 can be pressed into a SF host with your thumb. The height is very close but you can easily hand polish one end for perfect fit. Reason? The copper slug/bushing is close to solid except for a 3-4mm hole in the center and weighs 5 times as much as the rod your using. File one end enough to counter sink your NJG driver and i use some old copper pennies soldered on the business end and drill a hole in the presidents nose to run wire… No need for P60 parts and the pill is 75% solid copper mass and press fit to your host, no springs. I like a aluminum bezel to protect the optics and LEDs but not necessary. Next, im trying something new (for me) I’ll machine fins into the same copper pill to see if less copper and increased air circulation will perform better. I’ll attach pics if anyone wants to see what the heck im talking about…And if its OK with this threads OP…
I hope its OK with the OP… I’d like to see what you do. We just finished a hand full of pills for a guy…I did a little post about them earlier today… they had to be special made but I ALWAYS like seeing what other folks do!! Thanks for this info too! Dan
Keep this a secret - Next time go to your local plumbing store/ Home Depot/Leow's and locate 3/4 x 1/2 copper "bushing".
I think the secret's out.
Keep this a secret - Next time go to your local plumbing store/ Home Depot/Leow’s and locate 3/4 x 1/2 copper “bushing”. They differ in size from slug to slug but 4/5 can be pressed into a SF host with your thumb. The height is very close but you can easily hand polish one end for perfect fit. Reason? The copper slug/bushing is close to solid except for a 3-4mm hole in the center and weighs 5 times as much as the rod your using. File one end enough to counter sink your NJG driver and i use some old copper pennies soldered on the business end and drill a hole in the presidents nose to run wire… No need for P60 parts and the pill is 75% solid copper mass and press fit to your host, no springs. I like a aluminum bezel to protect the optics and LEDs but not necessary. Next, im trying something new (for me) I’ll machine fins into the same copper pill to see if less copper and increased air circulation will perform better. I’ll attach pics if anyone wants to see what the heck im talking about…And if its OK with this threads OP…
DarkSide,
If you’re referring to Dorpmuller’s drop ins I’ve read that post more than once, along with his post on CPF. I’ve been on the lookout for such a fitting but haven’t come across one yet.
I used the brass pill specifically to avoid having to try to dremel out room for the driver and wire and unlike the copper fitting the rod is solid copper with only a small hole drilled in it for the wire to pass through. And if I’m not mistaken, pennies have not been solid copper for a long time but I’m sure that’s splitting hairs.
As for the length, I can cut the rod/pipe as long as needed to fill the head. I used an existing P60 as a template and used the ground spring to assure the pill would be snug in the head. If I take the time I could measure to 0 freeplay or even slight preload against the lens. As for being snug, I can only fit one layer of unfolded tinfoil, with more the foil tears when inserting the assembly.
Please post some pictures, I’m curious and would welcome suggestions prior to me next attempt. First I need to get my drivers corrected, back to practicing my soldering!
I used Blue grade copper pipe and it was fine. I noticed the high amp drivers will create
a ton of heat. So the 4mm thick walls on the slug come in handy. The heavy slugs do require some
modifcation but not more than cutting the end of a pipe.
If you dont have access to a HomeDepot shoot me a PM.
And your correct the penny in your pocket will have little thermal value.
So i keep a big beer mug of old pennies , pure copper!!
I completed the drop ins this weekend but first my failings. When first wired the NW drop in was dim, the CW seemed fine. I measured the current and got only 500ma on high on the NW, checked the CW and had about 2600ma, not exactly the 4 amps I was hoping for.
I checked my soldering and there was no sign of solder bridging anything it shouldn’t be, I must have overheated the chips or driver itself. Good thing I still had two drivers left.
I installed the drivers without trying to improve them and it was smooth sailing from there.Here are the drop ins prior to driver install, virtually just a hunk of solid copper.
The only good thing about the wire routing and soldering is that it works, hopefully I’ll get better at it with time.Here they are with drivers and optics installed. I used a dab of AA to secure the reflectors to the copper.
Second photo is on low. The lights are nice and bright, typical wall of light. Both are drawing 3A at the tail cap and seem to handle the heat just fine. The extra weight of the copper adds some nice heft to the L2s.
Overall I’m very happy with the results, particularly with this being my first attempt. Though there’s still that voice in the back of my head saying “XP-Gs should have 1.5 amps each” to which I reply “next time”.
I think I’m going to order some more V2 drivers and chips along with a better soldering iron. Not an excuse for my poor soldering mind you but I don’t think the $10 Radio Shack iron helped much. I’ll bide my time practicing while waiting for XP-G2 3up stars to show up.
If I get my camera figured out maybe I’ll try some beam-shots next weekend.
Hi,
When you modified the P60 reflectors, how large (diameter) is the opening?
Is it 20 mm, so that the Carclo lens could fit through the reflector opening?
Or, did you shorten the reflector so that the front of the reflector was even with the front of the Carclo lens?
As you know from the other thread (P60 TIR), I’m trying something similar, with the same 3up and Carclo, but not on a P60, but rather with a Defiant AAA.
Thanks,
Jim
Keep this a secret - Next time go to your local plumbing store/ Home Depot/Leow’s and locate 3/4 x 1/2 copper “bushing”. They differ in size from slug to slug but 4/5 can be pressed into a SF host with your thumb. The height is very close but you can easily hand polish one end for perfect fit. Reason? The copper slug/bushing is close to solid except for a 3-4mm hole in the center and weighs 5 times as much as the rod your using. File one end enough to counter sink your NJG driver and i use some old copper pennies soldered on the business end and drill a hole in the presidents nose to run wire… No need for P60 parts and the pill is 75% solid copper mass and press fit to your host, no springs. I like a aluminum bezel to protect the optics and LEDs but not necessary. Next, im trying something new (for me) I’ll machine fins into the same copper pill to see if less copper and increased air circulation will perform better. I’ll attach pics if anyone wants to see what the heck im talking about…And if its OK with this threads OP…
Is the bushing that was mentioned this one:
?
I cut the reflector so it’s the same height at the optic, 10-11mm if I remember correctly. It had to be installed on the pill prior to installing the optic.