No toes hurt here. Itâs not so much that we like eneloopâs because they are a known brand. Itâs because of what most of us have experienced or read. Theyâre good batteries, doesnât mean theyâre the only good battery. With out someone testing new batteries we would never know when something better comes along.
Ugh. I got eneloop AAs⌠then a bunch of LFP AAs⌠then AmazonBasics AAAs⌠then EBL 14500sâŚ
For a guy who used to avoid AA lights and sneer at AAA lights, Iâm hip-deep in AAs of all varieties.
And thatâs not counting the close to a hunnert ancient alkaleak AAs that Iâm trying like Hell to burn off. Rat Shack enercells (what is it with âenerâanything almost always being lowercase??) in both older black and newer whiteânâorange varieties, and probably another 36â or 40-pack of Ray-O-Vac AAs that I know I have⌠somewhere.
Trust me, Iâm done with buying AA-form-factor anything probably for, well, ever. Iâm even tailstanding my SP10 as a nightlight, just to burn off half-spent alkaleaks that my TK4Aâs done with. (The TK4A is 4S, and seems to burn down one cell fasterân the others, so thereâs always one troublemaker thatâll leak first, even if the lightâs indicator shows yellow and not red.)
AnywayâŚ
Yeah, Iâve been pointing folx to IKEAâs LADDA cells, which as far as I know are still eneloops.
Excellent thread. We share, we learn. From that educated choices can be made based on personal values and expense requirements.
I had no idea that IR went to hell for so many AA in such a short period of time, though I guess 150 cycles is likely several to many years for most applications. I wonder how just aging factors in vs. use? Taking a battery and doing repetitive cycling gives one set of data, and itâs ârelativelyâ easier to do.
Using a battery so it gets cycled every 2-4 weeks, which is far more ânormalâ use for me, doesnât produce the cycle count, but many of my batteries seem to end up with high IR after a few years anyway. And, sometimes a cell goes completely dead, needs a âjumpâ, and is put back in service. That would also seem to take itâs toll.
When batteries start acting up, usually meaning higher IR/lower performance/not holding charge/and not terminating correctly in good chargers, they get marked and watched. Sometimes I run them through a couple refresh cycles. If they continue to misbehave they end up in LED solar yard lights or the recycle.
The alkaleaks started when MicroStore had a sale on Ray-O-Vacs, so I got a box for cheap. People wanted AAs from Rat Shack when those were on sale, so I got a bunch ratherân going backânâforth so many times, then they pussied out and I was stuck with them. I know I have a gifted box of Duraleaks somewhere from even before then, also, but those are probably fossilised in battery ick right in the package, unopened.
Was sick of alkaleaks, so just started getting rechargeables like NiMH, LiFePO4, and Li-ion. Once I burn down those alkaleaks, Iâm never going back, so at least I got my choice what to use.
Since Fujitsu makes the made in Japan eneloops for Panasonic, itâs more accurate to say that eneloops are thought to be the batteries in that link. :)
My experience is that china cells act pretty decent and seem to give japanese cells a run for their money and then fall over dead.While eneloops or dualoops fujitsu/amazon or any other re-badged panasonic / sanyo cell just seem to last forever .
In about 8 years Iâve only seen one eneloop go bad out of hundreds .
I had the same experience in the 90âs . i bought about 30 dark green re-wrapped for a company made by sanyo that were rock solid and lasted for probably 15+years with virtually no failures . the next year the same seller had light green chinese cells with higher capacity that all died within a couple years //Pure junk .
the seller sold 10,000 cells in a 3 day show @ a buck a battery .
I asked him what ten thousand batteries looks like . he said â about the size of a washing machine âŚ.a very heavy washing machine â