Emisar D1sV2 respectively Noctigon K1

junkyardbiker · 2019-11-28T21:08:12.000Z

Ordered in Dark grey, W1. My D4V2 is in sand with all the options including raised bezel since Ive torched a few pockets and a nice jacket hem because Im too cool for lockout. Damn you all for feeding my addictions! I had told myself I didn’t need a thrower and last night the D1S wasn’t on the site anymore or I would have ordered one also, and still ended up with a K1 today.

wilkins1kc · 2019-12-01T20:40:12.000Z

I’ve been watching this thread with interest……I’d appreciate some advice on whether the K1 would be suitable for me.

I don’t have a thrower flashlight at all and I like the idea of having one just to play with. But one specific time I’d use it is for confirming that no members of the public have entered the rear safety area before starting large electrically fired firework displays. A typical distance would be something like 200 metres depending on the products being used. I’m not expecting to illuminate the whole area……just swing the beam over the periphery for a final check.

Would the K1 be too throwy for my situation?
Which of the two LED’s currently offered would be best at that kind of distance?

Thanks !

SKV89 · 2019-12-01T21:06:18.000Z

The W2 would be better for your use but 200M is still too short. I recommend you get the Nightwatch NI40 with the SBT90.2. It has a very large hotspot yet throws very well. The large hotspot allows you to scan much easier.

justanotherguy · 2019-12-01T21:26:00.000Z

wilkins1kc:

I’ve been watching this thread with interest……I’d appreciate some advice on whether the K1 would be suitable for me.

I don’t have a thrower flashlight at all and I like the idea of having one just to play with. But one specific time I’d use it is for confirming that no members of the public have entered the rear safety area before starting large electrically fired firework displays. A typical distance would be something like 200 metres depending on the products being used. I’m not expecting to illuminate the whole area……just swing the beam over the periphery for a final check.

Would the K1 be too throwy for my situation?
Which of the two LED’s currently offered would be best at that kind of distance?

Thanks !

I have a blf gt70, had a GT , and a gt mini VN.
The GT did a good job on the park by my house, 300 yards to the stores on the other side. The GT70 does an incredible job in terms of throw AND lumens downfield. PLUS great spill for people spotting…

The GT miniVN, a bit less of a thrower than the K2, does ok at 300 yard with zero spill. Not sure how the K2 will be but I personally would want a GT70 or something. the park is 14 acres, ranging from 150 yards to 300 yards across from where I stand. With the GT0 a sweep would be unescapable….

ToyKeeper · 2019-12-02T01:50:11.000Z

wilkins1kc:

… whether the K1 would be suitable for me. … confirming that no members of the public have entered the rear safety area before starting large electrically fired firework displays. A typical distance would be something like 200 metres …

Will have to try it, but I suspect the K1 would be about right for that. I think I have a convenient spot to check which is about 250 m away.

…

Edit: Yup, it works pretty well. At that distance, the beam illuminates most of the side of a house.

junkyardbiker · 2019-12-02T01:54:35.000Z

When do we get to see outdoor beam shots? Ive already ordered one even without seeing real world performance though hahaha.

ToyKeeper · 2019-12-02T02:06:32.000Z

junkyardbiker:

When do we get to see outdoor beam shots? Ive already ordered one even without seeing real world performance though hahaha.

Probably when things melt enough to be able to move my car? It’s kinda stuck.

junkyardbiker · 2019-12-02T02:12:06.000Z

Snowed in? Im in Florida loving the weather

Yokiamy · 2019-12-11T20:34:06.000Z

EasyB:

EasyB:

Raleigh scattering is for particles much smaller than the wavelength of the light and is stronger for shorter wavelengths. This is why the sky is blue; light scattering off air molecules.

But fog particles are several microns large, larger than the wavelength of light, and this scattering mechanism is called Mie scattering, which has little wavelength dependence. This is why clouds and fog look white and not blue.

We need some controlled experiments and photographs. I have seen photographs appearing to show both cases, cool light scattering more, and cool light scattering the same.

Quoted my message above for reference. If a light were shining in actually clear air with no particles in it then cool light will scatter more. But my guess is that there is usually a significant particle density in the air whether it be fog particles or dust. Even if it doesn’t look very hazy there are a lot of particles. Scattering off of these relatively large particles is probably going to be dominant, and this type of scattering is not wavelength dependent.

Below are some pictures I just took. On the left is a convoy S2+ with smooth reflector and 2mm^2 white flat. On the right is another S2+ with smooth reflector but with a warm dedomed XPL. I adjusted their powers so their beam intensities were equal. The second photo is just meant to show the color difference. I lowered the powers to arbitrary values for the second photo.

It was not foggy out, but in the beam you can easily see very small water particles floating around. It is a 5s exposure. I think the amount of scattered light looks the same. So, again, if the air is actually very very clear the cool light will scatter more, but with any particles in the air the light will scatter a lot more, and it will be the same for warm or cool light.

maybe you can try to do this test again but measure the output of the lights with a luxmeter to substantiate.
The left beam looks dimmer, but usually CW tends to be more visible, which isn’’t the case now.

EasyB · 2019-12-11T20:59:26.000Z

Yokiamy:

maybe you can try to do this test again but measure the output of the lights with a luxmeter to substantiate.
The left beam looks dimmer, but usually CW tends to be more visible, which isn’’t the case now.

The beam intensities were the same as measured with a lux meter.

You say CW tends to scatter more, but this experiment and an understanding of the scattering mechanisms show otherwise. That’s sort of why I’m bringing it up again; maybe the common belief that CW scatters more is just not true in most cases.

Yokiamy · 2019-12-11T21:56:10.000Z

Call me stubborn, but i’m not convinced.
It looks like the total Lumen output of the right hand side is higher. (It must be, because the illuminated area is larger)

A real side by side test involves equal testing.
2 identical s2+ lights on the same brightness level, with proper lux readings and with identical LEDs but different tints.

Problem is driving them to an equal Lumen output.

EasyB · 2019-12-11T22:10:45.000Z

Yokiamy:

Call me stubborn, but i’m not convinced.
It looks like the total Lumen output of the right hand side is higher. (It must be, because the illuminated area is larger)

A real side by side test involves equal testing.
2 identical s2+ lights on the same brightness level, with proper lux readings and with identical LEDs but different tints.

Problem is driving them to an equal Lumen output.

Fair enough, but what exactly is your stubborn belief based on?

You are right that the total output of the warm light must be higher since the beam intensities are the same. This could be the reason why the warm light actually appears to scatter more in this photo. Although the beam is the same intensity, it is wider which would mean more scattered light in the beam cross section. However, I think the photo dispels the myth that cool white scatters a lot more.

Yokiamy · 2019-12-11T22:08:16.000Z

Its nice to know i’m not the only stubborn person over here

I like my tints neutral’ lets call it a personal thing.

EasyB · 2019-12-11T22:20:45.000Z

Yokiamy:

Its nice to know i’m not the only stubborn person over here

I like my tints neutral’ lets call it a personal thing.

I’m not trying to change anyone’s preference. I usually prefer neutral around 5000K especially when used outdoors. I just seek the truth; there’s no reason to use incorrect reasoning to justify one’s preference.

adam7027 · 2020-01-14T01:28:52.000Z

I just jumped in to say, that the 4000K SST-20 tint choice for K1 is amazing.

I compared it to an Astrolux MF02 (XHP35 HI 4000K), and of course, it has a bit narrower beam, but goes almost to the same distance.

For me, it feels like a complete replacement for these reasons:

- 230kcd is already very impressive, considering, that I chose a 95CRI tint

- 95CRI is well noticeable over the 70-ish CRI of the other flashlight beam, it is just better to look at the beam

WAY much lighter and more portable

Also, jumping from the top of the ramp to turbo makes the CCT several hundreds K ‘cooler’. I’d say about 4100-4200K for top of the ramp, but it feels like around 4600K-4800K in turbo (no measurements, just guesses).

Again, this is amazing.

I already purchased a phosphor converted (wider spectrum, somebody said, pale) green K1, as I could not resist.

I just wonder, if there could be a good (high intensity) phosphor converted amber, or similarly, a very ‘warm’ CCT (preferably under 2200K) white, as it could be also a very special thrower.

For people preferring a bit wider and more powerful beam (and being less bothered about heat), a 3500K 90CRI XHP35 HI option could be also welcome.

lightdecay · 2020-10-14T10:44:16.000Z

adam7027:

I already purchased a phosphor converted (wider spectrum, somebody said, pale) green K1, as I could not resist.

I just wonder, if there could be a good (high intensity) phosphor converted amber, or similarly, a very ‘warm’ CCT (preferably under 2200K) white, as it could be also a very special thrower.

Hank added Osram KY CSLNM1.FY phosphor-converted yellow LED as an option for Noctigon KR1 and Noctigon K1.

adam7027 · 2020-10-14T14:15:43.000Z

lightdecay:

adam7027:

I already purchased a phosphor converted (wider spectrum, somebody said, pale) green K1, as I could not resist.

I just wonder, if there could be a good (high intensity) phosphor converted amber, or similarly, a very ‘warm’ CCT (preferably under 2200K) white, as it could be also a very special thrower.

Hank added Osram KY CSLNM1.FY phosphor-converted yellow LED as an option for Noctigon KR1 and Noctigon K1.

In another thread, I made a request for that, because I saw, that Osram has also this kind of emitter. So as soon as I happily noticed the adition of the choice, I did hit the red button already on a K1, and started awaiting delivery :partying_face:

lightdecay · 2020-11-13T19:07:49.000Z

Oh cool, I did not realize that was you.

I also wanted a flashlight with a phosphor-converted amber led. I ended up buying a custom D4V2 from Hank with Osram KY CSLNM1.FY Converted Yellow.

I like it. It seems to be warmer than my E21A 2000K R9050, but I did not do any measurements. I use it with 10623 optic, because 10622 had some artifacts in the beam.

It might be around 1800K (above BBL).

【convoy】SFT40 5000K back in stock (sufficient) Commercial Sellers' Spot

KY CSLNM1.FY ,it’s not pure yellow light . Like the green light, it uses the design of coating phosphor powder on the blue chip. I can actually think of it as a warm yellow light with a color temperature of 1800K.

adam7027 · 2020-11-13T19:58:41.000Z

lightdecay:

I also wanted a flashlight with a phosphor-converted amber led. I ended up buying a custom D4V2 from Hank with Osram KY CSLNM1.FY Converted Yellow.

Nice idea. I’d happily take one - it would be even better in D4SV2.

Can you tell me, what kind of driver does that light use? Is it the constant current driver for E21A, capped at 5A?

lightdecay · 2020-11-13T21:30:14.000Z

I asked Hank to build it with 5A constant current driver with FET enabled. FET is somewhat brighter than 5A turbo, but produces a lot more heat.

Next time I would choose 7.5A constant current driver and noFET firmware instead.