Orange (Red+Green) is just green. Turquoise (blue + green) is just a different shade of green as well. White is a strange turquoise. The green LED is way too strong in the HD10, leading to bad aux RGB colors. Would need a way larger resistor to get it back in line.
thanks for explaining,
agree, mixed colors on RGB dont work to make Orange, Turquoise nor White, on a TS10 either…
Im just happy to use Red on low, so I can find the light easily in the dark… 
1 Thank
Same. I have red on low when on lockout and purple on low when unlocked I think.
1 Thank
Waitaminute…I think I fixed it by doing a reset. Twice.
Two days ago at 4.12V, then some random use and about close to an hour in low candle mode, left the standby aux on low and now still at 4.06V. Same batt. Hmm…
that would be great!
to know for sure, you would need to Not use the light for anything, while doing the battery test… And the Aux would need to be OFF.
fwiw
two days ago I started a test of my D3AA, with Aux Off.
I installed a 14500 battery that was charged a week before, and has just been sitting in a box unused. iow, the battery had time for the Voltage to equalize, I did not use the Voltage fresh off the charger.
when I first put the rested battery in my D3AA, with Aux off, the Voltage was 4.18V
i have not used the light for anything, except daily voltage check
today, 50 hours since the beginning of the test, the voltage is still 4.18V
iow, zero measurable Voltage change w Aux off, after 50 hours.
3 Thanks
can you help point me to documentation that explains that 3 flashes when closing the tailcap means low battery?
I cant find it in the manual, and there have been several people on Reddit this month, saying their new D3AA is not working, wont Turbo, wont change modes, and the light flashes 3 times.
Brand new D3AA won’t dim or turbo, and when I screw on the cap it blinks 3 times
I would like to point these newbies to some sort of documentation that explains that 3 flashes means they need to charge the battery.
1 Thank
It’s not mentioned in the manual so far. When you connect the battery, the driver will check how much the voltage drops under load (the first blink). When the voltage drop reaches a specific threshold, it blinks two more times.
It means that the battery is too weak for the flashlight or that the voltage is too low. Recharge the battery. If it still happens, you’ll need a battery with higher discharge rate.
3 Thanks
thank you
it would be good if the feature gets documented so I can point people to the info
Surely not newbie territory, but the source hwdef.c file for the D3AA states: 3 blinks: Weak battery, power severely limited, LINK. I am not sure if the manual addresses individual lights, but in any event, at least this is some kind of documentation to possibly refer to for the time being.
1 Thank
this is very helpful, thank you!
1 blink: Strong cell, full power enabled
3 blinks: Weak battery, power severely limited
2 Thanks
Just to avoid confusion, please note that the line below 2 states (not used on this driver, strong AA uses mode 1). I just checked a D3AA with both Li-ion and AA, and for both (full) there was 1 blink, just as expected.
1 Thank
thanks, I deleted that line from my post…
2 Thanks
This thread inspired me running runtimes on D3AA against Zebralight. I finally ran the tests:
2 Thanks
I sincerely hope that it was a typo, but the context has me pressing X to doubt.
The D3AA provides the same 3V and 2A to each emitter, with the only difference being that the D3AA has one less emitter. It’s still doing 6W/emitter, so the only way I see a D3AA actually being brighter is with different emitters that have more lumens per watt… or simply more candela since some see a 900-lumen W1 D1 as brighter than a 519a DT8K that has considerably higher lumens.
1 Thank
I’m going to flat-out call that wrong. I have a D3AA with 4500K 519s and a boost-driven D4K with 5000K 519s, other than the minor difference in CCT these should be more or less apples to apples and the D4K is brighter. The D3AA is very impressive for its size but for sheer output the D4K has more at the top end.
2 Thanks
See the first post in this thread. It is 9V, and approximately 2A max output current. Unlike many other regulated drivers, the maximum limit is based on input current in order to protect some batteries, rather than output current.
2 Thanks
I wasnt paying any attention to the comparison being made, just the claim that it was a 9A driver. Which had me thinking that cant be correct and lead me here to see the first post saying something about 9V (This stuff is quite a bit over my head still).
Is it 2A max total from the cell, or 2A to each LED making it 6A total asked of the Cell?
imlucky13 says “2A max output current”
But you say “2A to each emitter”
This light has the emitters in series, so all the emitters share the same current (up to 2A) passing through one, then the next, then the next, and divide the voltage as it drops going across each emitter (3 emitters x 3V each = 9V).
That is in contrast to ligjts with the emitters in parallel, where all emitters drop the same voltage together, (typically 3V) and divide the current.
Awesome, Thank you