Emisar D3AA is available now

I have some Hank lights where the magnets are oriented differently. They all stick to whatever I need them to stick to, so I never worried about it.

The tailcap PCB is glued in with CA glue (super glue), you can use some acetone to dissolve it.

Once that is off, it should be pretty straightforward to flip the magnet and reassemble.

Is there a reason that just storing cfg.strobe_type on entering tactical mode and restoring it on exiting the mode didn’t work? I only got to test two builds so I couldn’t fully test it but I tried a couple of approaches with no luck.

Also, found an interesting bug/edge case for lights with RGB aux. If you have aux-based channels (e.g. for blinkies, or just for a light with powerful RGB like the IF23 (an IF23 Pro maybe? :pleading_face:), if you have USE_AUX_RGB_LEDS_WHILE_ON (e.g. D1), the aux LEDs stay on when setting a level in an RGB channel, so you get a combination of the two instead of the desired channel.

I’m not sure if you were planning anything else for 4C, but I added previous channel to 4C because it’s definitely annoying to have to loop back round if you go past one.

(There should probably be a single thread for anduril development so we don’t clutter up threads like this…)

1 Thank

Hi @Hank_Wang

Could there ever be a KR4K?

Or a smaller KR1 like a KR4(K) with a smaller reflector and single LED for a smaller tail switch thrower?


2 Thanks

This is Rev 710, right? I‘d love to test this out with my 0135 and 0136 models. Unfortunately, I cannot produce hex files myself, so I will have to wait until these become available. Thanks @ToyKeeper, for all these improvements!

1 Thank

I think this is the main Anduril2 thread

But BLF has a tendency to derail threads (which is good).

Thank you for the suggestion. I poured some acetone in the tailcap, but the pcb is not moving at all. Do you have some tips?

I searched a little and found the following link:

It looks like the glue needs some time soaking and some heat. I put the tail cap into a container and poured some acetone for a proper soak. I will check back tomorrow and see if I would be able to remove the magnet.

Thank you!

The 0136 (d4sv2-tintramp-fet) builds don’t work yet, there’s emisar-2ch which works on my dual channel D4S and is essentially 0135, but there’s no direct equivalent to 0136 yet, you can use the emisar-2ch build but it won’t use the FET. Here are images for every currently-working build target:

1 Thank

Wow thanks! Will try those.

A post was merged into an existing topic: Sofirn Q8 Plus

This build is fantastic on the D2. I’d imagine it would be great on most 2 channel lights too.

1 Thank

@Hank_Wang you should offer MT-G2 if you still have them.
I’m in love with D1K creamy room sweeper

D1K MTG2, D1V2 FC-40

4 Thanks

Oh btw, everyone interested in yellow crap around hotspot gone on XHP70.3, cover white silicone around dies.



7 Thanks

Nice! Wonder if there is any thermal impact since black absorbs heat?

1 Thank

+1 for MT-G2, it’s an awesome emitter, I’d love to have it in D1k or DM11.

I know you used to sell it, would you consider bringing it back Hank?

5 Thanks

Just coming back from a little night walk with the D1K (XHP 70.3 HI 4000K 70 CRI from the not-so-secret-anymore secret menu).

I really want to heap praise on the efficiency of the XHP 70.3 + boost driver combo:
The light was able to sustain level 7 (120/150) indefinitely @ 10°C air temperature, body was approx. 35-40°C. I’m impressed. :slight_smile:
I guess I better bring lots of spare batteries for those longer walks. :low_battery:

4 Thanks

+5 on MTG2

3 Thanks

As far as I know, the MT-G2 LED is out of stock and discontinued.

3 Thanks

Cree MT-G2 Search results

Looking around on Digikey, Mouser, and others, the MTGBEZ-06 is still available in a variety of color temps

6 Thanks