Emisar D4S review

nick779 · 2020-04-20T13:20:40.000Z

Is level 65 similar to the current draw of the small D4, or the full current of all 3x 7135s?

Im attempting to estimate runtime and wasnt sure.

ToyKeeper · 2020-04-21T02:21:55.000Z

nick779:

Is level 65 similar to the current draw of the small D4, or the full current of all 3x 7135s?

Im attempting to estimate runtime and wasnt sure.

Looking at the ramp table for the D4S, level 65 is a value of 125/255 on the 3x7135 channel. That theoretically works out to about 515 mA if the chip has a linear response curve, but I don’t think it does. It’s probably higher than 350 mA, but the only way to know for sure is to measure it.

nick779 · 2020-04-23T10:48:21.000Z

Anyone by chance have a set of the small machine screws that align the AUX board and mcpcb and attach them to the mcpcb shelf in the host? I had a light that I bricked apart and apparently I misplaced these.

Edit: Richard at Mtn was kind enough to measure a few for me. Theyre Phillips Pan Head 2mm x 0.4mm x ~6mm machine screws.

I was able to order a few assorted lengths from an online hardware store.

lionheart_2281 · 2020-05-12T11:12:58.000Z

What’s the reset?
Just got a D4Sv2 and it seems to go straight to turbo with 1 press from off, or hold from off to stobe mode, what’s doing on?

hodor · 2020-05-12T11:34:41.000Z

Disconnect power, hold switch, reconnect power, wait 3 seconds or until light stops flashing, release switch.

lionheart_2281 · 2020-05-12T13:09:49.000Z

hodor:

Disconnect power, hold switch, reconnect power, wait 3 seconds or until light stops flashing, release switch.

Much thanks!

brightnorm · 2020-07-21T01:54:38.000Z

REVIVING this thread—-D4Sv2 FLASHER for walking at night

My goal was about 1.5 - 2 flashes per second at roughly 400 lumens. The slowest I could get the strobe was around 4 flashes per second at full power. Is there any way to slow it down and reduce lumens?

Brightnorm

Rayoui · 2020-07-21T01:56:22.000Z

You could use beacon mode and set it to one flash per second. It has adjustable brightness too.

brightnorm · 2020-07-21T02:12:57.000Z

IGNORE - Found it. Thanks (Too bad the speed isn’t adjustable)

Are the instructions handy or would I have to scroll through many posts?

ToyKeeper · 2020-07-21T16:37:18.000Z

brightnorm:

FLASHER for walking at night

My goal was about 1.5 - 2 flashes per second at roughly 400 lumens. The slowest I could get the strobe was around 4 flashes per second at full power. Is there any way to slow it down and reduce lumens?

Sorry, it doesn’t have anything quite like that. However, there are four things which might get close…

Tactical strobe at slowest speed: ~3 Hz and very bright
Party strobe at slowest speed: ~4 Hz and less bright
Beacon mode: ~1 Hz or slower, at whatever brightness you want
Bike flasher: ~1 Hz, at whatever brightness you want

The bike flasher mode is intended for high visibility at night, like walking or biking. Have you tried it?

brightnorm · 2020-07-21T09:10:19.000Z

Hi Toykeeper,

Since Bike flasher mode can’t go faster than 1Hz, Beacon mode seems to be the best. When you said 1Hz or faster, can you tell me how to speed it up? 2Hz-2.5Hz would be ideal.

Are you working on any brilliant projects these days?

Stay safe

ToyKeeper · 2020-07-21T16:38:27.000Z

brightnorm:

Beacon mode seems to be the best. When you said 1Hz or faster, can you tell me how to speed it up?

Sorry, that was supposed to say slower, not faster. 1 Hz is as fast as beacon can go.

brightnorm · 2020-07-22T09:40:12.000Z

No problem.

polarweis · 2021-01-18T17:37:42.000Z

Does anyone have the d4sv2 with w2 leds? Im wondering about heat. Sst20 already heats up very fast and im hoping w2 is better, but I dont think this is the case.

brightnorm · 2021-01-18T19:02:39.000Z

I do, from Vinh, and it throws like a monster. I haven’t noticed it getting any hotter than my other ds4v2s with SST20’s. But I haven’t paid attention to the heat aspects of the light, so I can’t guarantee that
observation. But it’s hell of a thrower, and the beam, though rather narrow, is still wide enough for general use, though not ideal for that purpose.

polarweis · 2021-01-18T21:49:25.000Z

Thanks for the reply. I think I will go for sst20. Still enough throw for me I think.

brightnorm · 2021-01-18T22:40:52.000Z

SST 20 is excellent; you can’t go wrong with it. Enjoy!

adam7027 · 2021-01-18T22:50:09.000Z

For anyone, who planned to purchase D4S with SST-20 Deep Red, before the restock, it was $54.98 ($49.98 + $5 extra), now it is $64.98 ($54.98 + $10 extra).

I don’t know, if any significant (or less significant, or maybe no) improvement happened in the meantime, but be aware of the change in pricing.

Lux-Perpetua · 2021-01-21T10:25:22.000Z

I asked Hank what driver he used for D4Sv2 with Osram W2 and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm. He said the driver was FET+1+3. I was hoping it would be a 9A (+ FET for W2) constant current driver like in the K9.3. IMHO, running four SST20-DR with direct drive could be too much current. These are specified up to 3A per LED, so four of them in parallel would max out at 12A total current already. Using a Golisi S43 or PLB55-A (Keeppower 5.500mAh) battery could deliver way more than 12A. With 9A constant current without FET each LED could be driven safely at 2.25A per LED.

centaurus3200 · 2021-01-22T21:37:23.000Z

i’m itching to buy an emisar with aux LEDs. i already have a late model D4 V1 (V2 driver, anduril, no aux LEDs). i dig the KR4, but i think it’s probably too redundant with my D4.

so… i’m thinking about getting a D4SV2. a few questions… i assume it is NOT possible to use the KR4 driver as the driver boards are not the same size… and the lights are different enough physically that the D4S needs it’s own unique flash of Anduril?

and i’m going to ask Hank if it’s possible to use the lighted side switch from a D4V2. best thing since sliced bread for finding the thing at night to go to the pisser. LOL!