Putting together a friendly, convenient one-stop-shop site would certainly make things easier for users… but it would also change the nature of what is expected. The more polished and professional the presentation, the more people expect the payload to be safe and robust.
So I haven’t attempted to make a user-friendly site for the latest builds. All I have is a primitive file dump for whatever I’ve updated recently. It’s pretty rough around the edges, because that roughness communicates something important to anyone who uses it — these are not highly-tested builds, polished and ready for widespread use. They are to be used at your own risk.
Basically, instead of paving a concrete walkway with guard rails, I’ve left it as a dirt path surrounded by weeds… because it lets people know the nature of what they’re getting into.
I got everything all sorted out and I have reflashed EVERYTHING. The only thing I’m confused about is my fw3a with sst20 at first I reflashed it with the fw3a219 hex but the power seemed really lacking so I tried just the fw3a hex and when I double click for turbo it cuts out it isn’t frying my LEDs I don’t think cuz it turns back on but I’m not sure what I need to reflash
The SST-20 can handle the FET. Maybe you have the new FET+1 driver (instead of the old FET+5+1) and because there is no third channel it just goes dark. Not sure which version Lumintop is shipping with their lights now, but I also wouldn’t buy them anymore.
That’s what I thought and I also figured if I was going to burn up the LEDs they wouldn’t turn back on. I could be wrong but something seems a little off when I look at the driver I see 1 7135 chip something else I don’t recognize and then the MCU so I’m not entirely sure but the fw3a219 works but it does seem a little underpowered
As SammysHP said, and as described at the top of the FW3A thread, recent FW3A drivers are not compatible with the original FW3A firmware.
Usually it’s a good idea to write down the numbers from Version Check before reflashing, to make sure the new firmware is the same build target as the old firmware. It sounds like it’s too late for that though, so perhaps you could make a compatible build by starting with a FET+1 t85 firmware (like the original Emisar D4) and adding the “#define USE_SOFT_FACTORY_RESET” option. It would probably work.
Are you sure? This is simply a dual emitter D4SV2 with the SW35 and SW45 emitters. It came with 2021.01.25.0262. I tried the D4SV2-219 hex file but the light wouldn’t work. So I flashed 2021.10.25-noctigon-k9.3-nofet.hex and it works fine.
I just tried 3H from on to test the tint ramp feature and it locked up the light. I had to do a tailcap reset to regain control. I’m pretty sure this is a single channel light. Unless I misunderstood what you were trying to tell me.
I have similar models. D4v2 sw35 model #0212 with A2 dated 2021.05.07. Flashed noctigon-kr4-nofet.hex file, no issues
D4Sv2 W2, A1 no code. Flashed emisar-d4sv2.hex first time didn’t work, said completed with errors and unresponsive to power/click. 2nd time completed with errors but this time the torch works fine. Is everything ok with the D4S despite the “with errors”?
I flashed my D4VS2.W2 with 2021.10.25-emisar-dvsv2.hex. The first time it flashed with errors, but worked ok. I flashed it again and this time it flashed with no errors, but I couldn’t tell any operational difference.
Are you using ZFlasher AVR to flash the light? Whoever created that app is genius!
Good to know. Yeah, ZFlasher is great and Emisar flash kit makes it easy for D4v2 & D4Sv2, D4S will be a bit different and I think I’ll leave the D4 for now. Got the flash fever and some bits from AE, including
Programmer Testing Clip SOP8 SOP SOIC 8 SOIC8 DIP8 DIP 8 Pin IC Test Clamp
I received my first Hank lights today from Fedex. The first thing I have to say is that the pictures on the internet are deceiving. These things are much smaller than I thought they would be, and I say that in a good way.
These are little powerhouses. The build quality on these lights are excellent. The 3 lights I bought are:
Noctigon K1 Thrower, Green with OSRAM W1 Green
Emisar DT8, Dark Grey with SST-20 4000k 95CRI
Emisar D4SV2, Dark Grey W2 6000K
The DT8 came with Anduril 2, the other 2 came with Anduril 1. Using the Usbasp adapter and avrdude, I was able to update all 3 to the latest 12/13/21 builds of Anduril 2. The only issue I had was finding the right amount of pressure to apply to the pogo pins, If I pushed just a bit too much, it would lose connection, so I had to just push it enough to seat the pins and no more, and it was able to flash and verify.
A big Thank You to all in this thread for answers to all the questions I didn’t have to ask.