Emitter recommendations for SK68 clone modding?

just ordered one of these:
http://www.tmart.com/CREE-Q3-3W-210-Lumen-3-Mode-Mini-Focus-Flashlight-with-Pen-Clip-Black_p134351.html?price=hk_intl

I was going to follow this tutorial
http://www.northstreetlabs.org/creeupgrade

I was thinking T6, since I have a T6 XM-L 18650 and its amazingly bright. I have a 14500 on the way.

Since these are so cheap, and a nice size, what other cree emitters do you recommend?
here’s the t6 I was looking at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Cree-Single-Die-XM-L-LED-T6-w-16mm-Round-Base-/390267410768?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5addc01950
and perhaps an XP-G R5?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cree-XLamp-XPG-R5-White-High-Power-LED-Light-Emitter-370Lm-3-7V-1A-w-16mm-Base-/261147686133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccd9d74f5
16mm is mentioned in the tutorial. I am assuming thats all i need to do a solder out swap out?

do i need to touch the driver at all?

Firelight2 is the guru of sipik emitter swaps. Check his mods. Here’s what a swap did with an XP-G for me:

SK68 to XPG w/ reflector

Not worth swapping LEDs it in my opinion unless you also change the driver to push more through a better emitter. For this zoomie a low emission angle is best for throw too, so XR-E or XP-E are better if you want throw.

The sk68 is IMO performing best with the stock XR-E led, and the combination of the stock driver and a 14500 just rocks, there is not much output to be gained from a driver swap either.

People throw all kinds of emitters in those lights. They are just too low cost and fun not to experiment with. Some put xml’s to make them more floody. Some Nichia 119 or 219 H1 emitters to get high color rendition. djoss knows his stuff. You may want to see if you have the XR-E emitter in yours. djoss, would you recommend the XR-E2?

I hate to admit this, but I put an obsolete 3w warm white emitter to make it more indoor friendly. It is probably my most used light. I need to change it to a Nichia to make it the perfect indoor light.

Welcome to the forum and best of luck on your mods.

Edit: There may not be an XR-E2. It may be the XP-E2 I’m thinking off. I don’t have any experience with those emitters.

The SK68s seem to be are all over as to how well they perform, and with which batteries. I posted a few examples found at this link:

Anyone tried a de-doming to get more lux or at least tighten up things a bit?

I had a sk68 clone with a xpe that worked quite as well as the xre. Xpe's (or even xpe2's) are easier dedomed than xre's, for less output, better tint and even more throw (if that is what you would like to happen). I found dedoming in a aspheric also gives a cleaner beam because there is no dome that reflects light back, illuminating the led board.

I put a Nichia 119 in one of mine and it’s not bad. Not bright, but a cheap way to get 90+CRI from a tiny light. Tint is on the warm side of neutral. Nothing spectacular, just a nice tint for cheap in a small light. :beer:

xml emitters are terrible (imo) when used with aspheric lenses . The beam is a huge square and you lose a lot of brightness as well. I have an XPG2 dedomed in one and it isn’t that great either . the beam is a little wider square and not as bright as the stock xre xpe emitters

I’ve yet to hear of a big improvement on the stock emitter. What would be more welcome is a glass lens, or a higher quality lens anyway to produce a clean beam.

Yes.
That’s at ~54m distance. Top is de-domed XP-E, bottom is stock.(click for lager image)
The square of the stock LED should be about 2,6m high. (estimated by window size. )

Sorry, a phone camera is not exactly made for this, but you get the idea of the size change.
Btw, a de-domed xp-g2 has pretty much the same spot size as the stock XP-E

It the dedomed any brighter?

The best combination that I have found is a de-domed XP-G2. You get rid of the ring, it has a better tint and it throws a little farther. I think I have tried most of the combinations that can be tried realistically.

Have you found a good driver? I want to pump 2 amps through the emitter, but mine only pull ~1 A from a 14500

I just direct drive mine. One mode only bright as you can get but gets hot fast.

Most of my Sipik mods have been with the SK58 rather than the SK68.

I much prefer the SK58 for its smaller size and much more pocket-friendly shape. I’ve modded 3 of them very extensively.

Recently I tried modding an SK68. I stuck in 16mm copper Noctigon with an XPG2 neutral on it and replaced the driver with a 4 amp driver (Nanjg 105c with 3 extra 7135 chips).

Unfortunately, the focal point isn’t in the right place. To fix it I’ll need to break out the file and start filing down the pill. I haven’t gotten around to doing it yet as I’m not a huge fan of the SK68’s bodyshape. If I want to finish this mod I’m probably better off just buying another SK58 to put it in.

That look sweet, dude.

I have an AW 14500 IMR in mine and seems noticably brighter than with TF 14500

It is a lot of fun for sure!
It’s even more fun attached to my trusty Zeiss field binocs. :smiley:

But 18sixfifty is right, for many people a de-domed XP-G2 will be the more practical option.
The XP-E is still a lot of fun though! :smiley:

How about an MT-G2 in a SK68? Now wouldn't that be cool! LOL! Whose gonna be the first to try it? Of course you'd need to do the extension tube add-on too.

-Garry