I know it’s cheap for the advertised output but man a light with that output designed without fins is a total fail. Even cheap 1000lm led bulbs have fins, cheap DC DC convertors at 6$ on ebay have alusink,…When you deal with 10, 20 or 50watt you know you will need them. i would better spend 25 to 30$ more on the price because of extra lathe work on the body.
I just got through checking with fresh batteries by handholding and after 35 mins it hadn’t stepped down on high. It was still comfortable to hold and getting 2950 lumens.I think the fin thing is a little overrated if it doesn’t have thin aluminum fins like a radiator it;s not going to help that much . Take a look at the x80 it doesn’t have much for fins either.
It’s obviously not a fail due to high number of people that buy it and like it. I personally think I would be fine with the heat dissipation of the MF01. I rarely need more than 2 to 5 seconds to see and identify what I’m looking at. My L6 does maybe 8500 lumen and I only use it in short bursts. That’s all I need. So a small high powered light like the MF01 is a win as far as I’m concerned.
Actually, I would prefer the even smaller Utorch UT03 due to it being easier to carry and lighter than the MF01 and MT03. Plus I prefer reflectors and xhp70 color. It’s a shame it might not get made.
So people should not buy lights willy nilly. Figure out what you need it for, how bright it needs to be, how much run time you need etc… and then choose the light that best suits your need.
It really depend of each one. My expectations are high when it comes to big soda can light.thats heavy and should at least get high output for reasonable long time
It have a concept1 which claims 1800lm and afters seconds 8t throttle down. But that’s a really small head with no fins. No way it can do the job longer. I know it and that’s OK for me. Now spending 80$ and get a 0.5kg light that can sustain no more than 3000lm is not really a win design.
I could be wrong for sure but that’s my point of view
Typically if you want sustained high output you have to get an oversized light and then run it at low levels. I think the Imalent DX80 can do 5,000 lumen until the batteries run down, but you definitely pay a premium for that performance. Plus it’s really big and heavy.
It would be nice if someone made a list of lights and their sustained output levels at a certain temp range, like summer night temps.
Lots of emitters + high amp draw = lots of heat & low battery life. The more the mass to take care of the heat the better the performance. There is no getting around physics. If you are not happy with this light you will not be happy with any light.
You got a V1 but that may be a good thing. My V1 Cree smokes my V2 Nichia. Have a supposedly V2 Cree on the way so I will know more in a couple of weeks.
There was a restock of XP-G3… Like a week, maybe two weeks ago? I got reply from Banggood just a couple of days ago, so you probably got one of the last V1 XP-G3 they had in stock is my guess.
There was a problem with uneven lit clusters of leds which led to the re-wiring (and apparently new driver design) of V2. If Banggood acknowledged the V1 to be susceptible to problems, then obviously they should have stopped selling them since then.
Freeme wrote in post #1599:
“Boss is not in office, i can’t get hold of him. I have not seen the actual updated unit yet, but i was told that all units sold from Oct 9 onward would be from 2nd batch with new LED wiring.”
Thanks. But there is no solid evidence that the new batch was V2. Secondly, lights are no doubt being returned. These lights could be sold again resulting in people still getting V1. So the situation is just messy I guess?
(It’s in a way like people receiving “new” Imalent lights where the seal is broken)