Ignore the 4th light, it’s a green XP-E2 that’s already sold. Prices do not include shipping. $10 anywhere in the USA shipped USPS priority with $100 insurance, whatever the actual cost is if international.
I have a modified uniquefire t20 that I put a 16mm Noctigon mounted XM-L2 U3 2A in, dedomed, with a copper centering ring/heatsink (all soldered directly to the pill), and BLF17DD driver. Driver spring has a wire jumper, and nyogel was used on the threads and O-ring.
Measured Candelas: 98,115 on Efest purple
Measured lumens in pipe: 1260 @ 30 seconds
Asking $75 SOLD
Second is the same light with a 16mm Noctigon mounted XP-G2 S2 2B, dedomed, with a copper centering ring/heatsink (all soldered directly to the pill), and a Q.lite driver with 12 x 7135 chips for 4.4A max current, 3 mode with memory. Driver spring has a wire jumper, and nyogel was used on the threads and O-ring. Slight ding on bezel, dropping what I’d normally ask for by $10.
Measured Candelas: 118,018 on Efest purple
Measured lumens in pipe: 665 @ 30 seconds
Asking $50
Last is a T20 with a 16mm Noctigon mounted XP-E2 red, dedomed. Same soldered build with copper ring, and a Q.lite driver running 3.04A. No jumper, just a solder pad on the driver spring. Nyogel on the threads and O-ring.
Measured Candelas:61,745 on Efest purple
Measured lumens in pipe: 253 @ 30 seconds
(these numbers are for reference, red is known to measure differently than white light with the Ct1330b meter I use)
Asking $65
One note on all 3 lights, because of the nyogel they create a vacuum when extending the head which can hold the clicky switch down. Leaving the head extended when not in use or when installing the batteries reduces the frequency of the problem till everything settles in. If it happens in use just zoom the head back in or unscrew the tail cap to release the pressure.
