Fail

www.youtube.com/embed/Ld1l4Ud7jp8

This light was "in the works" already, when I decided to cut back on modding and I have decided to go ahead and finish it to see if it really becomes a raging monster, or a fire breathing bomb when it's turned on.

ssra

I bought this light, just to mod it. I tore it all down

ssrb

and started thinking I would do a 3xMT-G2 mod, but when I started figuring the costs, I just decided to mellow it out a little, with what I already had on hand.

ssrc

Well, I already have 5 XM-L T6 and I have another T6 lying around, but the 7th led will have to be an XM-L U2, so it will be in the center. Yes, I will try my hand at 7 leds.

ssrd

I already have a bunch of 15 degree TIR optics, so what the heck, might as well use them.

ssre

I already have a big plastic lens from one of those 101 led lights, so why not make it into a locater for the TIR optics. I have only begun to size the holes so far.

ssrf

I already have a DrJones lupodrv driver and I have a bunch of 1.5 amp KD drivers, as well as a bunch of 380mA chips, so what the hell, 7 drivers Master/Slave. The driver for the center led will be 3040mA and the other six will be 2280mA each. That's 16.72 amps. I doubt I will ever get that much output, but at least it's there... Till I power it up and it goes Poof!!

ssrg

I stripped the original driver and I will keep the plate and use it just as a contact plate.

ssrh1

I already have (Courtesy of one of the wonderful members here), a bunch of copper bus bar material, so I took three sections and made a copper heat sink out of them.

ssrh2

I also have some .050" Copper plate (courtesy of another wonderful member here) and I used some of it to back up the bus bar and help tie it all together. This thing was cut out with a hacksaw and shaped with files. It weighs in at a whopping 8.5 ounces.

ssrh3

It's a snug fit into the head and hopefully it will serve well for the 7 XM-L leds.

ssri

I do Not have a 20 amp switch. All I have is a Judco and I am mounting it into the handle for easy accessibility. If it fries, I will look for a 20 amp pushbutton somewhere.

I figure the worst that can happen is the Master driver gets fried at first turn on, or the switch melts, or the batteries get too hot too fast..... or...., Hmmmm, I guess I should have the neighbor turn it on for the first time.Tongue Out

That's all for now (08-21-13). I will be working this as time permits and I hope to have it done within a week or so. I am waiting on things I don't have like Four 15 amp 18650 batteries and some Humbrel paints.... Oops, I didn't say Humbrel paints...Sealed

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08-23-2013

I spent several hours with the drill press, opening up the head of the light and turning down the OD of the copper insert. I didn't take photos...

But I did manage to get the light painted.

ssr2a

This was to be my base coat before dipping. It is VHT high temp brake paint. It takes several days to cure and it has to be baked in the oven to harden and make it high temp. Now, I sort of like the way it looks, just like it is. I was planning on dipping it, Google "guitar swirl", but I just don't know now. It looks good and with the chrome handle and a polished bezel, it might just work as is.

ssr2b

I also got the TIR locater ring finished. The Optics are in place permanently, using 2 part epoxy.

ssr2c

That's it for now. It will be next week before I get the Humbrel paints and the batteries, but I have things to do if time permits. I can set the leds down on the heat sink and wire the drivers to them. Then I can test using some NiMHs, just to see if it flies or dies. I also need to work a path for the rear contact, to the switch that is now in the handle.

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Well, it's a fail. It's done, gone, bye bye. I ruied the head, seven leds and seven TIRs. That's what's been happening with me for the past couple months. It's why I decided to give it up, because something has changed and I can no longer do what I used to do. I just end up ruining stuff. Well, that's life ain't it , you get old and you get useless. Some age faster than others. It's the natural order of things... but acceptance sucks the big one!

Sorry for the gloom and doom, I just lost right around $110 bucks into the dumpster, so I'm fairly angry and upset with myself and I shouldn't post, but that never stops me...

Reserved

Nice, glad to see you are “back” already :slight_smile:

Looking forward to see this one up and running.

nice!

ermahgerd.

You all know I wont understand any of this build with all this driver talk jive but will be compelled to follow the build for some unknown reason. Yep, I’m looking forward to another OL build.

Can I get fries with that? Might be able to Make fries with it! Cool work O-L, it’ll be very interesting indeed to see how this one plays out!

So this was the monster you were modding!

Fries would be extra!Tongue Out

You already said it came with chips…

Nice project. I like this light as a host. :)

Retirement is overrated? I’ll have some maple syrup and sliced bananas with that tall stack of pancakes (drivers) you are serving up. It will be interesting where your battle of voltage versus amps ends up.

I think it will end up severely under amped, or maybe the master board will just give up the ghost. It’s basically stacking a total of 36 chips on top of the original 8, so I’m really expecting a disaster.

I just hope I can catch it on cameraTongue OutSurprisedCool

Nice, optics rock! Song’s not too shabby either!

I’m guessing no smoke,…at least for the first minute :smiley: . I’ve seen a 26650 trustfire flame vs. 24 AMC7135 (380ma) by (3) XML for about 6A. So using my super exacting magic two thirds “flame” rule, hehe, you get 10A.

HKJ tested them at 20 and even 30A. Samsung INR18650 20R and they’re reasonably inexpensive. I just got 3 of em and they do seem to do the job!

Well, I bought what was available within the US and ended up with four PANASONIC CGR18650CH for $33. They are IMR 10A batteries, so they should work for the testing. Now all I need are 9 Sony SE US26650VT for this winter's montser build.Sealed

Only 2000mAh, suited for maybe 30 amps currents and unprotected are basically the opposite of what I would use in this light.

Lets say he should get the 16,7amps. Which is not unlikely with some decent cells and if driver circuits and wires are up to the job. That is less than 4,2amp drain from each of the four cells.

Protected NCR18650B can do 4,2A without issues (as long as vf isnt too high, which I don't think it is, these are 1st gen XM-Ls and the emitters will see less than 2,4A each).You would also get some decent runtime (up towards 70% more, which can be needed). On top of that a protection circuit! Which I would prefer in case some wire in the wrong place decides to say goodbye and short circuit onto some other place in the light.. I would not like to have cells that combined could do 100+ amps if that happens..

Is it likely? No, but better safe than sorry..

Nope, my eyes aren’t shot …