FandyFire stl-v6 mod questions MT-G2

Is it possible to put a MT-G2 in my stl-v6. The light currently has a T6 in it and it looks tiny in there. I got amp readings of 1.5 so my other question is can I just drive it harder. It is a great light my best budget thrower but my M3X walks all over the fandyfire. I took the tail cap off of the light and got an amp reading by placing my clip on the battery and body. I am new to lights is this the correct method.
I assume I will need a new driver as well and if possible hi and low are all I need any guidance is greatly appreciated

I don't see why not.
The XM-L LED (T6 is just a bin number) looks small because it's designed to be a thrower, hence the large reflector.
'Upgrading' to a MT-G2 will increase your output, but probably significantly decrease throw. (Plenty of light, going absolutely everywhere)

The reading you are getting is probably because it's 2*18650 in series, so it's the same power (if not, more due to less voltage sag) as a single 18650 giving 3A.

Not sure if it's a proper buck driver sending 3A to the LED. If it is, it could be as easy as dropping in an MT-G2 copper board and drilling out the reflector to fit.

Is there another led I could use to make this light throw further I want to try and mod it to out perform my olight M3X. I don’t know what I am doing I saw the ratings on the MT-G2 and assumed it would improve the throw. I will post beam shots between the 2 tomorrow when I get to a computer. I have no idea how to upload pics from my phone

Upgrade it to an XM-L2 on copper and see if you can increase the current to 4+ amps at the emitter, that should get you a nice bump. The STL-V6 has a great reflector.

Ok I think this is the led

and this driver but it is only 3 amps

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=202

You may be able to resistor mod the original driver to put out that much, no new driver necessary.

If you really are looking for all-out throw, go for a de-domed XP-G2 on a noctigon.

No driver mod necessary, justt make sure you heat-sink the LED properly with 3A running through it.

Can you please explain heat-sinking I am new and trying to learn

would this be the led and do I soak in xylene to dedome

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=202

Since you say you are new to this, I don’t know what you allready do know.

The led is mounted on a pcb from aluminium or copper. It should look something like this The pcb is mounted either with thermal paste or thermal glue on the pill. Also possible it is screwed to the pill. The pill also houses the driver.

To get your STL-V6 to work better you can do one or more of the following things:

- De-dome the emitter. This will increase the amount of throw you get from the led. For a how-to, search the forum for “gasoline de-dome” or something.

- Change the emitter to an XML2. This should help output and reduce generated heat a bit.

- It is possible the led is just not far enough inside the reflector. When this is the case, the light from the led is not all reflected out of the front. To fix this you can sand down the white plastic ring around the led (visable in the picture I linked). DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY! This ring makes sure the reflector doesn’t touch the pcb so the light doesn’t short out. Instead (or also) you can sand down the reflector.

- Put more amps to the led. This can be done by modding the excisting driver (resistor mod) or putting in a more powerfull driver. When you do this, the led and driver will generate more heat. To remove this heat, you need to make sure the heat management is up to the task. A couple of things are important:
* Change the pcb to a copper on. Copper conducts the heat better away from the led
* Make sure the pill has enough mass. The pill conducts the heat away from the pcd, so it is important is has enough mass to conduct this heat. When this isn’t the case, you could add copper plates on the inside of the pill or replace the middle of the pill with an copper rod.
* Make sure the pill has enough contact with the body (where the heatsinking is). Maybe put some thermal paste on the screwthreads of the pill to fill in the gaps between the pill and the body.

  • Copper braid the tail spring, this should decrease the electrical resistance in the tailcap.

To bad my STL-V6 hasn’t arrived yet. Otherwise I could help you some more.