Well, FT got this for sale, you prolly know about it already:
Brass pillar
And it seems its made of brass…well, isnt it a bit poitnless, as long as
Aluminum 247 W/m-K
Aluminum (6061) 171 W/m-K
Aluminum (6063) 193 W/m-K
Aluminum (7075-T6) 130 W/m-K
Brass (70Cu-30Zn) 115 W/m-K
Copper 398 W/m-K
Silver 428 W/m-K
Where is the point in it, and am i missing something?
you can solder to it
ding ding ding
For optimal heat transfer you can solder a copper led-board onto it.
Actually using thermal paste and screws will not work noticably worse, but I solder to it because I'm lazy, it's done in a minute, without lapping surfaces very well and without carefully applying very thin layers of thermal paste 
Thanks for the headsup btw, it was sold out for ages, glad it is available again.
Well….i was thinking about that but FT tech said that the default Convoy C8 pill is made of Aluminum (6063) and with AS5( 99% pure silver) thermal interface, i dont think that even soldering or liquid metal will do any bennefit in here…but i might be wrong, was wondering though
Thanks for the tips!
Copper pillar on the other hand willbe great, but it seems noone offers it
Been wondering about this too. Really there is only very little to no difference in heat transfer by using brass instead of aluminium. This is for people who prefer to reflow their board on it, and the FT brass pill comes with two screws and screw holes (not necessarily useful too if your board is thin).
Copper is indeed much better in heat transfer, but in a flashlight setup I still don’t see the necessity of using copper pill. Even the aluminium LED board (Sinkpad aluminium board for instance) will do fine with hard driven LED, provided that there is no any dielectric layer on the thermal pad. Copper pill is really some good sh*t but it is overkill for our purpose especially for the pill part.
Do you put thermal paste on the bottom of the star and then solder the egde of the star to the brass pill?
No, cover the surface of the pill with solder paste, put the star on top and heat from the underside with a small blowtorch and solder the whole board onto the brass. I made a video of that ages ago, I'll look it up.
EDIT: found it. I see now that my video skills were not great at the time ;-)
If you can find any data to show that those vastly different materials result in any difference in the amount of light output with any LED at any current it's possible to get in something small enough that you don't need a forklift or wheelbarrow to carry it around, then yes, lists like those would matter. Strangely, no one seems to have published any data that shows any difference between them.
Quite honestly Comfy, I’m surprised you yourself haven’t compiled data to show that the copper does not indeed help our lights. Once you do that, you can post it and end the argument once and for all.
I’ll still use big hunks of copper in mine, but hey, I’d read the data! 
On the other side of the pill, the driver can also be soldered to the brass pill for solid ground. I’ve found that to be the glaring issue with aluminum pills, it’s so difficult to get a solid reliable ground. I should find a drill and tap set with matching screws so I can start putting a screw into the inside of the pill for ground, and then I could also screw down the star in those pills that don’t have such an option already available.
Anyone know where to get these? (drill bit, tap, screws?) [in the tiny sizes appropriate here, of course]
I don't think I or the data would be accepted as unbiased, not after all that's gone on. I wouldn't be saying these things just based on a hunch, I've already tested all kinds of weird materials and that's how I came to these conclusions, not the other way around. I'm waiting for someone on 'the other side' to do the simple tests, post the data, and confirm what I've been saying for so long.
I even cut the entire center out of a C8 pill, replaced it with a ~3/16" thick layer of JB Weld, assembled with a 20mm Sinkpad & my favorite bulk cheap white paste, and compared to a brass C8 pill with the Sinkpad soldered. No difference, either initial or over time. The amount of surface area overwhelms any differences in the materials.
So with a ground screw to capture a wire soldered to the driver ground ring set in the aluminum pill all is well?
Might have to get a chunk of aluminum and try that on my next triple going in an X6 light. Contrary to what you might think, I am CAPABLE of learning, even if resistant. 
I have two tri-edc hosts from sinner coming on the way. One is titanium with copper pill, the other one is full copper, I will try the same pill with Qlite 3A driver and triple XP-G2 S2 on noctigon in both hosts and measure the output differences if there’s any.
Not exactly the correct test because the pill and paste are the same, but it will show if there is any advantage in output when using a more thermally efficient heat sinking material after the copper DTP mcpcb.
When such a question arises I usually am tempted to do some neatly devised test on it. For this one I am not tempted, because I am not curious about the result. It is what comfy says: what matters is the direct thermal path copper board, all the rest is details. It is based on my experience in doing a fair amount of mods, on how the EA4 is build and does not suffer from heat-issues, on how bad the sk68 is build while performing great, on hollow pills that work perfectly well when covered with a Sinkpad, etc. etc. With the led on a copper board you only need a tiny way out for the heat for the flashlight to perform great.
Well Comfy, I put my money on your theory and ordered an aluminum bar for my triple XP-L build in an X6. My plan is to fill the head of the light under the 32mm Noctigon with 6262 Aluminum, machined at the bottom to sit into the emitter/star pocket. If all goes well, it will be a snug contact fit all the way around, getting heat out to the fins through the mass of aluminum after leaving the large copper star. Should be pulling over 12A and making somewhere North of 3400 lumens.
6262 is reported to be one of the easiest Aluminum alloys to machine, so that’s what I got. Said to have lead and bismuth in it to lubricate the cutting tool and cut in chips for ease of manufacture. Reckon we’ll see how that goes. A 1.25” bar a foot long was $16.
Actualy its not the matherial that is spendy but the handywork/machine time , i asked a CNC machinist about that C8/C12 pillar made of copper….80 euros , and i cant order just one but at least 10
Wonder though, why they made it from brass(FT i mean) , copper will up the price to 3.5$( probably) so what?1$…who cares as long as its 4 times better considering thermal transfer
I ordered some of that non drying silicon paste you use comfy. I know coming from a background of overclocking computers that most of the tims out there dry up and have pretty bad longevity or thermal transfer. If that stuff you linked does the job without turning into cake, it’ll be worth it.
Won’t mess with a lot of the tims out there- they fail and fail. On computers and graphic cards, motherboards you have a thermistor to read. So you can see how a tim is performing over time under the same loads/ambient. Flashlights you’d never know there was a increase and by the time there is, you probably aren’t messing/testing that light anymore.
All the tims out there work. It’s getting one that doesn’t turn into thermal insulation! Also the bead method makes a world of difference in the transfer itself. Spread you get a lot of air under the joint.
It would not be 4 times better, the light output would be exactly the same. It does not matter.
If brass vs. JB Weld doesn't affect the light output, how the hell is copper vs. brass going to affect it?
And i wrote:
, light output has to be measured, i am only guessing on my personal experience.
On theory, brass has like 4 time worst thermal conductivity, and my point was why they dont make it from Cu instead of copper then, the price for the end customer may not be that high
Maybe you are right and there is no point in that, thats why i asked in the first place