fasttech zy-t08

Anyone received one yet? Hows the quality?

I have mine and I like it. It needed a resistor mod, as it was only driving about 2 Amps.
It’s longer and bigger than an HD2010. If you have a good HD2010, this light may be redundant (then again, most of my lights are redundant :wink: )
Needs button top cells due to flat contact board. Wide flat tops may short out on ground ring.
Protected will fit.
Good machining and ano everywhere. Tailcap silver portion has machining marks.
5 modes, no memory, H, M, L, Strobe, SOS. Starts in High. Mode spacing is not the best; low is too bright
LED perfectly centered.
Reflector is a very good plastic type, like the Defiant 3C material. Nice tight hotspot with just enough spill.
Once modded, throw measured at 46kcd. This thing is bright!
Excellent heatsinking. Has thermal compound on star, but I set the LED again and used some larger emitter wire.
For $25 it’s not bad.

Good to know, thanks relic38. I got one on order too. Hoping it's a good foundation of a thrower for an XM-L2/SinkPAD/Nanjg driver upgrade.

Not a bad idea. You would need to strip the driver and use it as a contact board. The pill is cavernous so there’s lots of room for an extra driver board or three.
Edit: I will probably do something with the driver too. I find the modes too poorly spaced to be useful. I sometimes have to cycle through again just to see if I actually changed the mode.

I’ve already got one from manafont, this is for someone else, got pots for tuning the drive current so they should be happy. :bigsmile:

It sounds like its better than mine as you never mentioned the paper driver retaining device I found on mine……

Sounds like the driver mount will be no problem - done a couple of variations of contact board mounts before. With all that space in the pill, hoping I can make use of a good amount of copper heat sink material. With a light of this configuration, if you could take a copper rod, maybe 1/4 to 1/2", drill a hole to match the rod diameter in the top, center of the pill, then mount the rod flush with the pill (sanding smooth), then below the pill, secure the rod to copper discs with cut pipe or something, I would think you'd have a super nice heatsink, if the copper could be secured to the aluminum body, maybe via the pill top. Combined with a SinkPAD, you would have copper direct from the LED to a massive copper heat sink with only solder at connection points. The theory, I think, would be correct -- copper to aluminum directly from the LED, minimum # of transition points.

Maybe I'm dreaming, and requires a lathe or mill -- the hand tool method would probably be too time consuming to make all the contact points fit dead-on.

Paper retaining device for the driver??? No such thing here.
I do not know if a pot will work for tuning the current, it might burn up. I always use a fixed value resistor (I added one R082 to get about 3.2A).

I am still, much the Newbie, as compared to you Vets, but, I did purchase some of these and found them to be quite useful…

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001926/1138202-20mm-partition-boards-for-amc7135-led-flashlight-d

The one that’s in there’s doing ok :wink: just didn’t go low enough. These have a much lower range and better resolution.

ok, this turned up yesterday and the sanyo cells turned up today.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001901/1143804-sanyo-ur18650zt-18650-2800mah-protected-rechargeab

cells arrived at 3.78v on one pair and 3.84 on the other pair ie both pairs arrived at matched voltage.

the zy-t08 pulled 1.8a @ 3.79v charged up on the cheap charger I ordered to go with the light

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000969/1080400-2-x-18650-lithium-battery-charger

terminated at 4.19v and maintained that voltage.

zy-t08 pulled 3.14a, you could also see this from the beam compared to earlier.

I’m happy, sure my buddy will be too.

I’m also going to order a stack of these chargers for with light kits.

I posted this elsewhere, but thought it should go here as well:

New #'s on my mod'ed T08. My mod'ed ZY-T08 w/XM-L2 U2 SinkPAD, Nanjg @4.2A with the 2 Pana PD batts, measured 4.27A and measured output:

lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs, throw: 100 kcd

I did a lot of experimenting/testing with the AW IMR, Sanyo 2600's, Panasonic PD 2900's, and Samsung INR 1500's. Those Panasonic PD's from FT are outstanding for single cell or parallel cell XM-L2/SinkPAD's. A little better are the Samsung INR's - only got 2 from FT dirt cheap (looks pulled from a battery pack) @1500 mah. Ordered 3 more Samsung INR's at higher capacity off of eBay, and think I'll order more Pana PD's from FT -- excellent in the 7G9 and T08, plus my single cell mod'ed XinTD, UF C8, and UF-V3. The 7G9 did 125 kcd w/the 2 Samsung INR's and 1 Pana PD -- best #'s ever. The AW IMR does well but these batteries beat it. The Sanyo 2600's were a dissapointment, couldn't compete at all. Looked like marginally better than straight Panasonic 3100 and 3400 unprotected.

Important Issue: my FT T08 has a pretty poor loose pill - loosest threading I've ever seen in a flashlight, period. I looked at it a bit closer tonight, and it seems to barely grab the host threading. When it's fully screwed in and almost tightened up, it still has a bad wobble to it. Put thermal grease on the threads, doesn't really spread - again, worse I've seen, usually a little grease spreads through all the threads. Has anyone else seen this? Wonder if just a bad unit or bad batch. I loaded up the threads now with grease, hoping it will help. Tried copper tape, but couldn't get it to hang in there.

--> Update: I still need to do work on this pill, seems like. With those impressive #'s and driving it at 4.2A, after 5 mins on high, the body/host is staying pretty cool, little warming, which has me concerned not much heat is escaping from that pill. The threading is just awful!

One other buyer confirmed the loose pill - beware. If anyone has any ideas for a fix, I'm listening...

Gords! You got these! Any chance you can report on whether or not you can charge those past 4.20v (i.e. the protection doesn't kick in at 4.2v but allows further charge)?

-Garry

Tom,

Are you saying the panasonic 3400 ncr unprotected batts are no good for this application?

Do they not hold voltage very well?

Chris

I can try and rig up my hobby charger for 4.3v,

For the T08 with 2 batts in parallel, unprotected Pana 3100's can reach high amps when fully charged (think I saw that at 3.85A but not sure I checked at 4.2A), but in single cell XM-L2/SinkPAD lights, they can't. The Pana PD's and Samsung INR's are clearly superior for high amp configurations with XM-L2/SinkPAD setups. It's been discussed here before how the SinkPAD keeps the LED so much cooler, it runs with a higher forward voltage than normal, so the low resistance batteries do better. I've seen it and that's why I went on this mission to find better batteries. I got a XinTD C8, UF C8, and a couple of other single cell lights mod'ed with XM-L2's and SinkPAD's and was able to get higher measurements (lumens and throw) with the PD's and Samsung INR's.

My unprotected Pana 3400's are flat top so don't work with the T08 - I'd have to add solder to the + ends to make them work, but in single cell lights, I've seen the same problem with the 3400's.

That would be much appreciated! Let me know if and when the protection trips. I'm also looking into the Samsung protected ICR 3000mAh's, know anything about them?

Thanks,

-Garry

I modded two TR-001 chargers for 4.2V and 4.3V using the existing switch so I can charge my Sanyos and Panasonics. It’s not an easy mod, a fair amount of trial and error.
I generally will not publicly post charger mods. Anyone interested can PM me, thereby assuming the risk by asking. Thanks for understanding.