Ff light

LED Flashlights – General Info
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E07 has(d) pots, but my copper e07 did not - do not expect it. I posted a comparison thread. Copper had different tir (20 vs 25?) And simpler led board. Didnt check e07x but dont think nov-mu did

It is becoming dim outside now, this may not be as rosy as 219b but it isn’t what i would call yellow. Distinctly low duv, cant wait to test with the spectro when i get home. My Fb4’s were yellow with mild green tint, this is nothing like that ugly D4 I sold! If anything I would call it orange

Beam is quite a bit narrower, i think

4000k pierces fog much better than 219b even with ugly fb4…

159

Th ask for the update. I could never mess with the SST20’s when there are better options. But an orange hue instead of a yellow one is something I might be able to get on-board with. I saw a 2000K Nov-mu and the heavy orange in that actually was very appealing. I guess FF got a nice batch of them.

160

yes, the only thing about the e12r i do not like is how the secondaries look (mediocre), either Hank has set the standard too high, or FireFlies failed on that. But i think FireFlies us failed a little on it, and i say that because on my KR4 / D4 (29mm wide head) there are 8 RGB auxiliaries, and on my e12r (47mm head) there are 9 RGB auxiliaries… So FireFlies just is not using enough at all IMO. The K9.3 has 15 RGB auxiliaries i believe…

But if i remember correctly FireFlies may be putting the auxiliaries on the main mcpcb with the LED’s, so maybe there isn’t enough room for more…

161

Tailcap threads only seem crap before you apply the lubricant, which I think FireFlies was very kind to include (many re-lubrication possible with that amount).

The E07X Pro has 6 groups of RGB aux LEDs, which may seem a bit less than desired, but I am absolutely fine with it (even would be with only 3).
Also, I am happy with the decision to include aux LEDS on the main MCPCB, because adding that second MCPCB can make a price difference, which I wouldn’t be really happy to pay (I acknowledge though, that others would).

I am really blown away with this batch of SST-20 4000K with the much superior FA4 tint. I would happy to see a GD1 option as well (similarly rosy, but a bit under 3500K).

162

I don’t think you are meant to use the unanodized tailcap at all, in fact the one time i tried it made the light bugger out and lock up firmware. It was a mistake to not use square threads or longer threads for the head end … A big one

163

Received them today! I am BLOWN AWAY, these E07x's are everything I LOVE about the e12r, but in pocketable form! They are a little heavier than i expected, and i really, really like that! they're solid. These two lights are so awesome, i am so happy with them. The RGB are totally fine and look great! Not a complaint yet, cant wait to start using them.

The anodization on both of these, both color and finish are amazing, the nicest of any lights I have! That red.. damn.

Also, the sst20 5000k looks really good. I have went to complete xpl-hi recently with every light i have ordered, and haven't had a sst20 5000k in months. It looks nice and white, a little green at Low levels, but overall im very happy. Wow, i think ill be ordering a Black nichia version too. And of course the fa4 sst20 4000k looks great, i am going to compare to my e12r and see if there is a difference. I have found differences in xpl-hi 5D bins before.

Navy Blue = sst20 5000k

Red = sst20 4000k

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Very curious on how the beam and throw compare between e12r and e07x in SST20 4000k :slight_smile:

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Well, it just so happens that is something I can take a picture of for you. Tonight. :smiley:

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Lovely, thank you!!
And your overall impressions between the two.

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[quote=adam7027]

[quote=ftumch33]

Tailcap threads only seem crap before you apply the lubricant, which I think FireFlies was very kind to include (many re-lubrication possible with that amount).

I used super lube and the threads are just a tiny bit better but lack of lube was not the problem. The threads were not cut correctly.
I have plenty of other lights that are of similar construction that have little or no lube and I do not have the same problem as I do with this light.
I really WANT to like this light.
I have the E07
I have the E12
And now I have the E07X
The threads on the E07X feel like titanium threads in the gritty-ness, and it feels like there`s galling of the threads with every turn.
I`m going to re-clean and try nyogel, but before I do that, after I clean I`m going to get a piece of black construction paper and see if there`s any metal shards coming from the incredibly rough threads of the tailcap.
Well, after cleaning and re-lubing with nyogel the threads are a little better and `liveable`.
The secondaries do not have any pots to adjust and unfortunately I feel the secondaries on this light are a big `downside`.
I also have noticed that unless I ramp the light all the way up, turbo is not on max.
Anyone else notice this?

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See, on both of these E07x and my e12 I only remove the head for battery changes, and I haven’t put on any lubricant . I use nyogel when I do lubricate threads, but haven’t had the need: the head side threads are all VERY smooth. Maybe there is variances between lights on these ? I don’t think the tail cap is meant to be removed because of the clip. Same as my fw3a, kr4 (edc) and KR1 - I never remove any of those tail caps because of the captured clip. I understand it doesn’t make gritty threads OK; but how are your head side threads? Gritty too? Because my experience is that all 3 of mine are just as smooth as my noctigons. They’re thinner threads, but they are smooth.

169

So i have a hard time with this new iphone to get distinguishable pictures on beam shots, because i feel like the camera is just trying to constantly "even" everything out and brighten it up in a night shot. I would say if you can give me any advice about how to get better shots (maybe a way to manual camera settings to over ride the auto balance?) So here is a couple of shots. My first impressions -

I really, really like the e12r. i havent had the negative "gritty" threads experience anyone else has had. The e07x is literally the perfect portable sized version of the e12r. the e07x still blasts turbo (almost difficult to tell the difference between 7 and 12 emitters outside on turbo, and they hold turbo easily for about 30 seconds before dropping.

Bottom line- i do not regret buying my e12r, and will definitely keep it, but if I could only buy one of these lights for me i would buy the e07x so it was easier to transport. I think they are both unique enough and awesome enough where if you can buy both just do it. There is no way you would regret owning both, unless you thought you were edc'ing the e12r, i just dont think its possible (i do it with cargo shorts on, but with jeans its not practical).

the button feel is the same, the battery tube grip texture is the same. The Sand e12r i have is much more matte, really flat and gritty almost, where both e07x are smooth (perfect) anodizations. I like both e12r ano and e07x ano a lot, and both are tough even though youd think the sand "matte" ano wold scratch easily (like noctigon) it does not!

Here is a couple "beam shots", sorry they arent good. My Thoughts - the e12r is a little wider, and little floodier as we might expect form the extra emitters. The e07x has a little more "spot" feel to it, but not much. It really feels very similar in many aspects of the beam profile as i can tell. I havent measured throw but they visually are similar (i live in pretty dark area), of course e12r is brighter but not so much you miss the difference. The e12r has an impressive flood outside while still throwing well, the e07x has less of that flood and throws similar. Hard to give any real useful differences, my apologies. heres the shots

Below is first e07x then e12r.

below: e07x then e12r:

below side by side:

Below is my little EDC cabinet. top row are D4, next row down is KR4, next row down is e07x. Just to show comparison of the RGB aux led capabilities. E07x is fine like another member said.

Below is just for fun, and i had to check lol.

170

More comments on the E07X Pro beam:
My initial hope was to find a replacement regarding beam to my Emisar D4S flashlights. In some ways, it happened, in other ways, it didn’t. Beam quality (evenness, severity of artifacts) is improved in E07X Pro by a large margin. I am happy with how overall the beam looks like. I also like, that because of 7 emitters instead of 4, switching into turbo changes the SST-20 emitters’ tint less noticeably. However, I got more light in the spill, than I expected, and the hotspot is a bit also bigger than expected - and it is also surrounded by an extended and distinct corona region before the spill starts. Emisar D4S easily wins regarding throw (both corona and spill region is much dimmer but with artifacts present), but not by an overly spectacular amount. I also prefer, that with D4S, my foreground is less illuminated, helping me to concentrate better objects seen in a distance.

171

I really like E07X, but one thing bothers me - there is very sharp edge in front of button and near charging port.

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Thank you very much for impressions and beamshots.

For camera settings, best way is to download an app that allows for manual exposure control. In standard auto mode, the camera will make two very different lights feel identical.

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Thank you for the advice! If you know of an app please feel free to suggest one, anyone. I love my iPhone 12’s camera, but for beam shots it is literally terrible, it Does make two different lights look identical. Although the differences between the e12 and E07x are negligible, there are still visual differences.

I will try to reupload some new pictures with manual settings tonight/early tomorrow.

Thanks!

174

Check out ProCamera or maybe Lightroom mobile.
Just make sure shutter speed, aperture and ISO are fixed between both shots.

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[quote=ftumch33]

[quote=adam7027]

The E12R and the T9R are both in transit, and will be my first Fireflies lights in my massive collection of lights. As many comments on the threads as I see here, just exactly what could be so hard about cutting adequate threads in an aluminum tube? After this many comments they have to be aware of the issues. Perhaps they should spend less resources on auxilary lights, and more on threading. I do not give a hoot in hell about multi-colored auxilary lights. For me, multi colored led’s are for Christmas trees, but to each his own I guess. That gimmicky stuff first came in some of my Astrolux lights, and thought it might grow on me, but it did not. I hope I can manage to click the switch ten times to get to advanced features and unlock turbo. That might be hard with my spinal cord damage. I am sure disableing the auxilary lights is in the menu. I am sure many users love that in a light, but it is just something else to drain the battery to me.

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Ok awesome. I downloaded an app called “manual”. It’s pretty intuitive and nice. Only question I had was where to set iso, aperture, shutter speed, and white balance. But your right, as long as they are the same between the two shots I should be good, right?

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Exactly, all three settings (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) need to be the same between shots. White balance as well if you want to compare tint and colour temperature. For white balance, I would set it to 4500k which is the benchmark for neutral white in flashlights.