Fireflies ROT66, Born for fans of flashlight

nvanlaar · 2018-09-05T18:27:09.000Z

Interesting. I’ll have to wait and see if I get anymore info or perhaps someone else will.

Newlumen · 2018-09-05T18:44:14.000Z

JasonWW:

I think an SST-40 would definitely be brighter then an xpl-hi version. You are just limited to a 6500K color (or 7500K, but that’s not a good option).

I like sst40. Some light sst40 stepdown very quickly. I don’t know why… example. My eagtac g25c2.

nvanlaar · 2018-09-05T23:58:55.000Z

Confirmed SST20 in both 6500k and 4000k CRI95. Also XP G2 in NW and CW. Listed on the website.

Di_Joker · 2018-09-06T06:00:38.000Z

Wonder how much 7135 for the version of SST20?

Lux-Perpetua · 2018-09-06T12:28:29.000Z

I received my ROT66 with Nichia 219B yesterday. So far, everything looks fine from outside.

Luckily, no dead LEDs but when looking onto the LEDs two of them show dark spots of their die-areas already and there seem to be dust or some kind of residue below the optic. It doesn't look nice even though it seems to have no real effect on the beam.

The side switch LEDs should better be aligned symmetrically to the flashlight body.

twisted_raven · 2018-09-06T13:11:50.000Z

You can unscrew the steel bezel and carefully pry off the optics to blow them out, but you’ll still probably see some dust inside the optics. I’ve had a couple of optics based lights now including the D4s, and they all show some form of dust or another inside the optics once lit, it’s something where unless you’re in a vacuum assembling the optics, you’re going to see particles in the optics, because they’re like magnifying glasses.

JasonWW · 2018-09-06T13:16:39.000Z

twisted raven:

You can unscrew the steel bezel and carefully pry off the optics to blow them out, but you’ll still probably see some dust inside the optics. I’ve had a couple of optics based lights now including the D4s, and they all show some form of dust or another inside the optics once lit, it’s something where unless you’re in a vacuum assembling the optics, you’re going to see particles in the optics, because they’re like magnifying glasses.

Isn’t the general rule of thumb that anytime you unscrew the bezel of a light using this type of large optic that you can accidentally dedome all of your LEDs?

I think you’re supposed to carefully hold down the optic so that it doesn’t turn while you’re loosening and tightening the bezel.

I don’t know for sure, maybe someone else can comment on this.

You can also carefully pry off the switch bezel and get your switch lights lined up how you want them and then just tap the bezel back down.

twisted_raven · 2018-09-06T13:20:12.000Z

I guess that would depend on how hard it is to unscrew the bezel. The bezel on my champagne ROT66 219B unscrews rather easily, while the optics have long pins that hold it in place, that was harder to pry out, had to carefully pull up on the side as I turned the light so I could pull it out evenly.

My black ROT66 219B, the bezel seems to be screwed on much tighter.

shirnask · 2018-09-06T13:25:19.000Z

/\ Mine was the same

SKV89 · 2018-09-07T04:33:55.000Z

JasonWW:

SKV89:

Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s

Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s

I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?

Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.

I took temperature measurements with a Fluke 62 Max+ and here are the results:
Black host: 49.9 Deg C at 65s step down
Champagne host test 1: 37.8 Deg C at 42s step down
Champagne host test 2: 36.6 Deg C at 43s step down

Weird that previously the champagne host steps down at 19s all three times I tested it on the first day I received the lights. I don’t remember the ambient temp being much warmer that day.

So yea I guess the thermal step down temperature varies greatly from unit to unit. I’ll look at your instructions on how to manually set the thermal limit.

So far, I’m really enjoying the ROT66 219B. I’ve been blasting turbo frequently just to admire the beautiful HI CRI and perfect tint.

Edness · 2018-09-08T23:31:48.000Z

Got mine today. DOA

2 of them don’t light up and all the emitters are crushed. Also missing gitd tape inside the light.

Newlumen · 2018-09-08T23:47:07.000Z

SKV89:

JasonWW:

SKV89:

Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s

Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s

I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?

Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.

I took temperature measurements with a Fluke 62 Max+ and here are the results:
Black host: 49.9 Deg C at 65s step down
Champagne host test 1: 37.8 Deg C at 42s step down
Champagne host test 2: 36.6 Deg C at 43s step down

Weird that previously the champagne host steps down at 19s all three times I tested it on the first day I received the lights. I don’t remember the ambient temp being much warmer that day.

So yea I guess the thermal step down temperature varies greatly from unit to unit. I’ll look at your instructions on how to manually set the thermal limit.

So far, I’m really enjoying the ROT66 219B. I’ve been blasting turbo frequently just to admire the beautiful HI CRI and perfect tint.

Thanks… I am going with the black host either way.

JasonWW · 2018-09-09T00:38:08.000Z

Newlumen:

SKV89:

JasonWW:

SKV89:

Champagne host 219B 4500k 9080
4650 lumens at 0s
1482 lumens at 30s
Dims at about 17s

Black host 219B 4500k 9080
4500 lumens at 0s
3991 lumens at 30s

I tested the Champagne host twice and it steps down at about 17s. It doesn’t do that on the Black host. Anyone have any idea why that is?

Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.

I took temperature measurements with a Fluke 62 Max+ and here are the results:
Black host: 49.9 Deg C at 65s step down
Champagne host test 1: 37.8 Deg C at 42s step down
Champagne host test 2: 36.6 Deg C at 43s step down

Weird that previously the champagne host steps down at 19s all three times I tested it on the first day I received the lights. I don’t remember the ambient temp being much warmer that day.

So yea I guess the thermal step down temperature varies greatly from unit to unit. I’ll look at your instructions on how to manually set the thermal limit.

So far, I’m really enjoying the ROT66 219B. I’ve been blasting turbo frequently just to admire the beautiful HI CRI and perfect tint.

Thanks… I am going with the black host either way.

You’re misunderstanding. I wasn’t saying all of the champagne colored lights had their thermal protection calibrated too low. It just doesn’t work like that. Each individual MCU or micro processor control unit (Atiny85 in this case) has its own unique tolerances concerning the baseline temperature reading. It samples the temperature inside the MCU itself as opposed to an external temperature sensor. The firmware being programmed into all of them are set at the same temperature, but Fireflies can’t go through each light and calibrate the baseline temperature. So some lights are going to activate the thermal protection too soon and others may activate it too late, there’s always going to be a certain variable. So if it’s not functioning the way that you like, the easiest thing to do is just manually set it yourself.

steel_1024 · 2018-09-09T06:31:09.000Z

Edness:

Got mine today. DOA

2 of them don’t light up and all the emitters are crushed. Also missing gitd tape inside the light.

When you try to remove the optical lens.
You rotated the optical lens.

Then, You removed (Cut off) all the “roof” of the LED.
There may be some LEDs injured？

ToyKeeper · 2018-09-09T06:29:58.000Z

steel_1024:

Edness:

Got mine today. DOA

2 of them don’t light up and all the emitters are crushed. Also missing gitd tape inside the light.

When you try to remove the optical lens.
You rotated the optical lens.

Then, You removed (Cut off) all the “roof” of the LED.

It’s a design flaw, not user error. And no domes have been cut off; XP-L HI emitters don’t have a dome. The problem is that the optic was not designed for XP-L HI — it rides too deep and slices into the emitters. Basically, the lights were broken at the factory by tightening the bezel too far.

This issue is known by Fireflies, and it is the reason why the XP-L HI version is no longer available. It has been replaced with XP-G3 and SST20 instead, because they fit into the optic better.

ToyKeeper · 2018-09-09T06:33:40.000Z

SKV89:

So yea I guess the thermal step down temperature varies greatly from unit to unit.

It does. The temperature sensor is in the attiny85 chip, which is not calibrated. It can vary by 20 C from one chip to the next.

On newer firmware, which I think might be used on the next batch, there is a calibration function to help make the behavior more consistent. The user can calibrate the sensor by telling the light how warm it is now, and also set a limit for how hot it should get before stepping down.

steel_1024 · 2018-09-09T06:35:57.000Z

ToyKeeper:

It’s a design flaw, not user error……………

Oh!

I understand

JasonWW · 2018-09-09T07:07:24.000Z

steel_1024:

ToyKeeper:

It’s a design flaw, not user error……………

Oh!

I understand

The xpl-hi base is slightly taller than the Nichia base. It seems the optic height was adjusted for the Nichia. So when they installed the XPL and tightened the bezel it would crush it slightly.

JasonWW:

The xpl-hi emitters have a taller base, the white part of the LED, then the Nichia emitters. I believe the xpl-hi are 1mm tall and the 219B are 0.4mm tall.

The 3 legs built into the TIR lens is what’s supposed to prevent the lens from crushing the emitters. I guess they drilled the holes in the mcpcb too deep.

The_Flashaholic · 2018-09-15T08:46:07.000Z

I knocked my ROT66 219b over yesterday and the LED’s flickered then went out, is that normal?

Also still no sign of my replacement head for the XP-L.

Sillen · 2018-09-15T11:05:57.000Z

A firm tap on the bottom will do it too