Fireflies Rot66 vs E07 vs PL47

M4D_M4X · 2018-12-31T18:33:55.000Z

thanks DB!

Lumencraft-Matt · 2018-12-31T19:09:49.000Z

lotrbfme:

You are saying that the E07 has almost the same lumen output as the Rot66?

Yes, according to multiple controlled tests the E07 powered by the 21700 cell is nearly as powerful. If I had a set of 3 sony VTC6 I think there would be a gain on that. My LG cells are descent performers though.

M4D M4X:

great video!

both my samples (also from Neal) got burning hot while the beamshots (it had 2°C)

Thank you for letting us know.

Deputy Dog:

I just wish I could turn the switch lights off on my PL47. Because of that, I’m not sure I want the EO7.

I was thinking that I read somewhere the E07 auxiliary lights can be turned up or down (maybe off) using those pots that sit on the board? Perhaps one of them is keyed to the switch? It is possible to turn off the LEDs on the face by 7 clicks from off. On/blink/off etc

M4D M4X:

since here are more people reading than on my review:

on both my lights 2 of the 4 leds in the switch go OFF when the lights are ON

tested in regular and muggle mode as well as all levels

is that a defect or a anduril specific behavior?

That is how mine is 2 for off 4 for on.

DB Custom:

The problem with the instruction manual is that it’s printed in black and white, ToyKeeper laid it out in color. So the two thin lines indicating one click or two clicks are different colors and much more easily understood.

Nice video, fun to watch as usual… wish you’d gotten a color manual so it would have been easier to follow. Learn the actions first, everything after that is easy.

That definitely helps. :student:

AlexGT:

Thank you for explaining how to set the temperature and also how to properly use the headband…

Hmmm. I notice that the E07 has 3 leds in the center that are not lighted, are those the low battery indicator? Thanks!

I hadn’t even noticed that until just now.

G0OSE · 2018-12-31T19:57:56.000Z

Nice job on the review, very well explained! if we’d have had yours and m4d max’s combined that would be the complete review lol! the point about not many batteries fitting in the actual lights (length wise) in the other review is quite important, especially if buying them at the same time - nothing worse than a shiny new light and battery turning up only to find they wont’t fit lol!
I’m still not convinced about the headband though, it’s more of a quick fix than a proper solution - the fact remains it’s still the wrong headband, the clip just stops it wobbling a bit.

Newlumen · 2019-01-01T00:32:13.000Z

Thanks VOB. Happy new year… i have one rot66 with the narsil. Will the thermal CFG set up is same as anduril ??

nokoff · 2019-01-01T01:51:14.000Z

On the thermal configuration example. He did 9 clicks, then 40 clicks. What does each signify?
He said 30 clicks would give 60 C… He actually did 40 clicks which would be 70C or 158F. Is that too hot of a ceiling?
That’s Anduril only correct? I have a couple that are older Narsil M. Is the procedure different?

TIA

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T02:46:31.000Z

Is the 21700 battery length issue on the E07 only limited to the Nichia 219 versions? i.e. Should I be concerned with 21700 battery length on the E07 SST-20 version?

deleted-200707 · 2019-01-01T02:56:54.000Z

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T03:55:56.000Z

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

JordanZHP · 2019-01-01T04:20:57.000Z

Luminosity:

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference, I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T05:31:25.000Z

JordanZHP:

I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference

Can you confirm that the PL47 and the E07 use the same tube?

JordanZHP:

I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.

If 0.8mm really makes the difference, then that’s definitely a failure in tolerances. The only reason springs exist in a flashlight is for accommodating variances in cell length¹. If they’ve failed to do this, then that’s a design flaw plain and simple.

¹ - Yes I realize springs do also provide some shock absorption but that's not their primary purpose.

Rolz · 2019-01-01T08:41:29.000Z

Excellent review. I enjoyed watching it in full. All very powerful flashlights.

Nguyen · 2019-01-01T08:41:46.000Z

Fireflies should start selling additional tubes to BLF members who are having problems with the initial tube.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T14:00:14.000Z

Springs in a flashlight allow the light to stay on if/when dropped or given a hard shock… that is the defining purpose.

There are quite a few “crusher” style lights out there that work perfectly with a given cell, do you think everyone that buys those lights buys the specified cell to go with it? If Jack sold a proprietary cell alongside the PL47 and guaranteed it’s fitment, you can rest assured a great many would take a pass on that cell in favor of their own… it’s all part of designing lights to be as compact as possible to gain favor with a particular market group, much like the DQG lights.

It is form that follows function, not the other way around.

nokoff · 2019-01-01T14:15:38.000Z

Nguyen:

Fireflies should start selling additional tubes to BLF members who are having problems with the initial tube.

If you’re having an issue email him or PM him on here. You do realize it comes with a 5 year warranty, not need to freak.

scintillator · 2019-01-01T16:02:26.000Z

Great video VOB I just received my EO7 and feel very empowered now.

aginthelaw · 2019-01-01T16:53:01.000Z

Does anyone know which cell Jacky’s including with his giveaway (grey 21700)?

Also, i have a champagne pl47 and whenever i try to configure something, it goes into a mode in which a click goes straight into turbo, a click and hold goes turbo then strobe, and a double click goes into low.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T18:16:42.000Z

Don’t think that’s anything in the firmware aginthelaw, sounds like a problem. Are you having to really crank down on the tail cap to get it to work? Excess pressure could cause the driver to glitch… I’ve flashed Anduril a lot of times and that behavior you describe is not on any of mine.

aginthelaw · 2019-01-01T18:58:16.000Z

DB Custom:

Don’t think that’s anything in the firmware aginthelaw, sounds like a problem. Are you having to really crank down on the tail cap to get it to work? Excess pressure could cause the driver to glitch… I’ve flashed Anduril a lot of times and that behavior you describe is not on any of mine.

I tighten it enough to get it from glitching which happens if it’s NOT tight enough.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2019-01-01T19:38:54.000Z

nokoff:

On the thermal configuration example. He did 9 clicks, then 40 clicks. What does each signify?
He said 30 clicks would give 60 C… He actually did 40 clicks which would be 70C or 158F. Is that too hot of a ceiling?
That’s Anduril only correct? I have a couple that are older Narsil M. Is the procedure different?
TIA

Each click represents 1 degree C. What I did in the video was just an example, I cant remember what I actually set it too. 70C is going to be a “hold by tail cap” kind of hot. I’ve had lights in bench tests survive roughly that though. Probly not good for real world use.

Luminosity:

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

A difference of 0.8mm could be the make or break on this light. Convoy L6 has the same problem. I think with this light much of the issue could be the spring bypass on the battery + end. In my E07 is its very hard and stiff. Looking just now at I noticed it concaved battery top as a result. The solder joint sticks out past the spring, and the travel is also reduced by it somewhat. Eliminating it may not be easy either, as it looks like the wire comes through a drill hole in the center vs a pad to spring contact.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T22:30:43.000Z

Remember that when setting the temperature it’s 30º + the number of clicks you’re adding. So if you want to set it at 40 you add 10 clicks. 30 is a base setting and you can’t drop below that. For 50º you click 20 times, 30 + 20 = 50.