Fireflies Rot66 vs E07 vs PL47

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T02:46:31.000Z

Is the 21700 battery length issue on the E07 only limited to the Nichia 219 versions? i.e. Should I be concerned with 21700 battery length on the E07 SST-20 version?

deleted-200707 · 2019-01-01T02:56:54.000Z

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T03:55:56.000Z

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

JordanZHP · 2019-01-01T04:20:57.000Z

Luminosity:

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference, I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.

Luminosity · 2019-01-01T05:31:25.000Z

JordanZHP:

I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference

Can you confirm that the PL47 and the E07 use the same tube?

JordanZHP:

I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.

If 0.8mm really makes the difference, then that’s definitely a failure in tolerances. The only reason springs exist in a flashlight is for accommodating variances in cell length¹. If they’ve failed to do this, then that’s a design flaw plain and simple.

¹ - Yes I realize springs do also provide some shock absorption but that's not their primary purpose.

Rolz · 2019-01-01T08:41:29.000Z

Excellent review. I enjoyed watching it in full. All very powerful flashlights.

Nguyen · 2019-01-01T08:41:46.000Z

Fireflies should start selling additional tubes to BLF members who are having problems with the initial tube.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T14:00:14.000Z

Springs in a flashlight allow the light to stay on if/when dropped or given a hard shock… that is the defining purpose.

There are quite a few “crusher” style lights out there that work perfectly with a given cell, do you think everyone that buys those lights buys the specified cell to go with it? If Jack sold a proprietary cell alongside the PL47 and guaranteed it’s fitment, you can rest assured a great many would take a pass on that cell in favor of their own… it’s all part of designing lights to be as compact as possible to gain favor with a particular market group, much like the DQG lights.

It is form that follows function, not the other way around.

nokoff · 2019-01-01T14:15:38.000Z

Nguyen:

Fireflies should start selling additional tubes to BLF members who are having problems with the initial tube.

If you’re having an issue email him or PM him on here. You do realize it comes with a 5 year warranty, not need to freak.

scintillator · 2019-01-01T16:02:26.000Z

Great video VOB I just received my EO7 and feel very empowered now.

aginthelaw · 2019-01-01T16:53:01.000Z

Does anyone know which cell Jacky’s including with his giveaway (grey 21700)?

Also, i have a champagne pl47 and whenever i try to configure something, it goes into a mode in which a click goes straight into turbo, a click and hold goes turbo then strobe, and a double click goes into low.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T18:16:42.000Z

Don’t think that’s anything in the firmware aginthelaw, sounds like a problem. Are you having to really crank down on the tail cap to get it to work? Excess pressure could cause the driver to glitch… I’ve flashed Anduril a lot of times and that behavior you describe is not on any of mine.

aginthelaw · 2019-01-01T18:58:16.000Z

DB Custom:

Don’t think that’s anything in the firmware aginthelaw, sounds like a problem. Are you having to really crank down on the tail cap to get it to work? Excess pressure could cause the driver to glitch… I’ve flashed Anduril a lot of times and that behavior you describe is not on any of mine.

I tighten it enough to get it from glitching which happens if it’s NOT tight enough.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2019-01-01T19:38:54.000Z

nokoff:

On the thermal configuration example. He did 9 clicks, then 40 clicks. What does each signify?
He said 30 clicks would give 60 C… He actually did 40 clicks which would be 70C or 158F. Is that too hot of a ceiling?
That’s Anduril only correct? I have a couple that are older Narsil M. Is the procedure different?
TIA

Each click represents 1 degree C. What I did in the video was just an example, I cant remember what I actually set it too. 70C is going to be a “hold by tail cap” kind of hot. I’ve had lights in bench tests survive roughly that though. Probly not good for real world use.

Luminosity:

chinooker:

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.

A difference of 0.8mm could be the make or break on this light. Convoy L6 has the same problem. I think with this light much of the issue could be the spring bypass on the battery + end. In my E07 is its very hard and stiff. Looking just now at I noticed it concaved battery top as a result. The solder joint sticks out past the spring, and the travel is also reduced by it somewhat. Eliminating it may not be easy either, as it looks like the wire comes through a drill hole in the center vs a pad to spring contact.

DB_Custom · 2019-01-01T22:30:43.000Z

Remember that when setting the temperature it’s 30º + the number of clicks you’re adding. So if you want to set it at 40 you add 10 clicks. 30 is a base setting and you can’t drop below that. For 50º you click 20 times, 30 + 20 = 50.

klrman · 2019-01-01T22:58:59.000Z

Is the default 50º?

heatwaves · 2019-01-02T23:22:56.000Z

I am curious about this as well. I think 50C would be high as a base setting, but curious to find out.

I’d also like to know what the highest “safe” temp setting would be. Along the lines of the D4S.

cclight · 2019-01-03T02:00:01.000Z

DB Custom:

Springs in a flashlight allow the light to stay on if/when dropped or given a hard shock… that is the defining purpose.

Really? That’s a surprise for me… Then I really disagree with the option.

There are quite a few “crusher” style lights out there that work perfectly with a given cell, do you think everyone that buys those lights buys the specified cell to go with it.

Unfortunately they’re quite rare, at least the ones I like. No need to be for a unique cell, Lexel posted a mounting that uses screws to adjust the size.

I’d very much like to get rid of these pesky springs to reduce contact resistance, for high output flashlights.

nokoff · 2019-01-03T04:56:21.000Z

vestureofblood:

nokoff:

On the thermal configuration example. He did 9 clicks, then 40 clicks. What does each signify?
He said 30 clicks would give 60 C… He actually did 40 clicks which would be 70C or 158F. Is that too hot of a ceiling?
That’s Anduril only correct? I have a couple that are older Narsil M. Is the procedure different?
TIA

Each click represents 1 degree C. What I did in the video was just an example, I cant remember what I actually set it too. 70C is going to be a “hold by tail cap” kind of hot. I’ve had lights in bench tests survive roughly that though. Probly not good for real world use.
t.

So the 9 clicks, before the 40. Wouldn’t that be the “ current temp”…you set it at 39C right ? If the light is cold (hasn’t been running) should we just use room temp?

Lexel · 2019-01-03T06:56:36.000Z

If you read the spreadsheet for Anduril first clicks is the temperature calibration
So if light is 20 degree you click 20 times

The aux boards inner LEDs are low battery at 3.3V, first batch ROT66 about 3.65V, as the whole board were run from MCU,
while revision 2 added a small on/off FET and MCU acts only as turn on signal while supply comes directly from battery, this explains 3 wire connection on newer lights

0.3V below that all LEDs shut down