I hope it’s more like 1900 lm OTF.
That’s not likely to happen with only 6A current 
The 219B emitters are of D220 bin, which means ~220lm at 700mA, so at 500mA we have 220 * 500/700 = 157lm or more. 157 * 12 emitters = 1886lm. The optics efficiency is probably 90, but we must consider the lose due to the glass and bezel (yes, the bezel really matters…), so the true OTF ratio will be lower than 90, say, 80~85, and this may vary from one unit to the other. 1886 * 85% = 1603lm, that’s the OTF value you may expect. To get more, you need a more efficient emitter or higher current.
D220 is 220 lm minimum at 700 mA, 240 lm maximum.
In TA’s test of the 219B-V1 D220 sw45k, he got 176 lm at 500mA. 1900 lm would basically be spot on with 0,9 optics efficiency.
I’ve got quite a few current regulated lights with 219B-V1 and I’d be disappointed if this one doesn’t exceed 1600 lm.
Thanks for the info. Hopefully will receive mine soon.
Checked and nothing in spam. Do receive their emails in my inbox. Received the email about the delay a few weeks ago.
Status on their website still says paid only. Like to think I’m a pretty patient person. Just when you really want to get your hands on something you paid for time seems to be dragging.
TA’s test was done a long time ago before he calibrated using Maukka calibration lights. His old calibration was 30% or more higher than Maukka’s calibration.
Ok, thanks for the info. However I doubt he tested 30% too high in that old 219B-V1 test.
The emitter was specified D220, which means minimum 220 lm at 700 mA. TA measured 243 lm at 750 mA, 243/1,3 = 186,9, for the 30%, so 186,9 lm at 750 mA
Do you really think those emitters were that far off their binning?
Thought about it for some time and did some calculations, I agree that 1600 lm seems quite realistic. 220-240 lm * 0,73 (rel. flux vs current graph from datasheet at 500 mA*12*0,9 (optics)*0,9(90°C emitter) = 1561-1703 lm or 1734-1892 at turn-on (25°C emitter).
So 1900 lm is optimistic, 1400 lm is too low.
Regardless of what it is you know the current from driver so who cares what the real number is plus or minus 20%. 6A is either enough or it isnt
Of course, you can look at it like that.
However I just expected it to be clearly brighter than my EE X6 triple 219B at 5,3A that I always guesstimated to do around 1300+ lm. Pavlo wrote he expected 1400 lm, which is pretty close to my X6… I just thought driving 12 emitters with 0.7A more at a much more efficient state should result in a bigger difference. I’ll shut up now.
Using the same consistent calculation I used for the 6 amps distributed across 12 LED’s, your X6 9080 219B at 5.3 amps should emit 1090 LED lumens (58 L/W), or 980 Lumens out the front. No matter which measurement is most accurate, the E12R will be about 50% brighter than your X6. The E12R at 6 amps will have 87 L/W, so significantly more efficient.
Using FET, thats a different ball game. The E12R will be much brighter than the X6 on FET.
Last thing to consider, I doubt the E12R can sustain anything above 1000 lumens without proper cooling, so in a real world use, you’ll get more than enough brightness from the FET and top of regulated ramp. The
If you followed the Texas Ace Lumen Sphere thread several years ago, you will see that the lumen calibrations you read online are all over the place. Maukka is the only one with an ultra expensive professionally calibrated lumen measurement system, which is why he sold calibration lights to the DIY lumen measuring folks like us. Maukka calibration usually measures much lower than what other people are measuring. Only Fenix and Olight specs match Maukka lumens for the most part. Other large manufacturers like Acebeam, Thrunite, Zebralight, etc. are generally 15% to 30% higher than Maukka lumens.
I remember measuring quad 219B FET lights in the past at about 1300 lumens only and only last for a few seconds so if this thing can regulate sw45k at 1400 lumens for even a few minutes, that would be quite an amazing feat
Thanks Pavlo, that’s a good way to look at it. 50% brighter sounds nice. Maybe my X6 emits only around 1000 lm. It just looks much brighter than my Zebra SC600 MKII L2 and measures 20 lux ceiling bounce vs 15 lux for the Zebra. But yeah, ceiling bounce… X6 - one fat hotspot, Zebra - hot spot, very wide spill… Not accurate and hard to compare by eye.
Also thanks, SKV89, I haven’t been a regular follower of the forums the last couple of years. Thanks for shedding some light.
It seem like you are one of few people who has new noctigon K9.3 and E12R; if you have time can you do compairson with the two and some photos? I am looking forward for more review for this two exciting flashlights!
I really don’t have the will or time. I will write some very quick thoughts. I will try and post a few pictures later.
The K9.3 is taller, heavier and all around larger, not by a lot but enough to notice. The K9.3 didn’t come with a clip for pocket carry or a magnet to attach the light to metal, the E12R does. The charging port is hidden behind threads on the K9.3 (which many love, and I understand why) and that prevents you from charging the flashlight while using it. If you are going to carry the light I would go with the E12R. If you are looking for an all around great house light, I think the K9.3 does very well. For me the more efficient driver seals the deal to make the E12R EDC.
Thank you, I think that summary make sense. I will considering ordering! I hear E07X coming out so maybe that may be smaller version of E12R and the blue looks nice too.
Mine arrived this morning. Feels quite nice in the hand and well built. The packaging is a bit fancier that what I’ve seen before. Never had Nichia LEDs so this evening I can’t wait to try it out.
Just received my ER12 to the US.
Bottom tail cap threads are really bad. Never have received a flashlight that was so rough when loosening and tightening the tail cap.
Did use some grease over the threads. This has helped, but still pretty bad.
Using 21700 battery instantly the tail cap (magnetic) touches the battery LED light turns on even without tightening. This is also a first for me. With my Fireflies E07 can unscrew slightly to use a a lockout mode while tail cap stays on.
Tail cap thread feels rough on mine when the tail clip pushes against the tail cap. Take the clip off and it’s fine
Can we see some photos of threads issue?
https://i.imgur.com/nZR5cH9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lxlN7dq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iiHjr28.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sdMHnKa.jpg
Ohhhh they’re non-anodized. At first I was wondering if maybe the tube was on backwards but the images in the OP shows that’s how it’s supposed to be.