First build/mod UF-T20

So I have been looking for lights that do different things I have been unable to find on the market. I have always resisted the idea of modding/building my own light because most things I read are about these outrageous over the top power builds and I was not interested in such things. I kept researching and finally decided to try and build myself a zoomie with decent CRI that would allow me to distinguish the difference in shades of stripes on my cats and light up 50-100 yards for varmint that come up at night and disturb my cats. I needed a light with a good spot and no spill because the spill of my other lights would white out my rifle scope.

I picked up the t20 host and a Nichia 319at d400 as well as a Qlite driver with Guppydrv firmware from mtn electronics. It turned out fairy well even though I realized/remembered when the parts arrived that I had broke my soldering iron the last time I used it and threw it away. I couldn't wait for Amazon prime to ship me a new one to try this out (I tend to get excited about building things) so I soldered the components together using the kitchen stove and a metal shish kabob skewer.

I was a little underwhelmed by the size of the spot being thrown. I had read somewhere that zoomies through spots the shape of the die which was why I picked the 319at hexagon shaped die. It did show colors well, and lit up a decent distance. I understand now that an LED would need to be dedomed to reduce the diffusion and throw the die shape. I also read that Nichia domes are normally sliced off so I proceeded to get out a brand new razor blade and slice this dome off. I now have a light that throws a perfect hexagon of bright blue light. Oops. So I ordered a new one, and a handful of other LEDs to try out i. This build, as well as an actual soldering iron. Will update with pictures of the light in action when I learn how, and with the other leds when they get in. Any advice and suggestions always welcome.

Nice!! Looking forward to your further impressions. 100 yards is a cake walk for aspheric throwers. Yes it needs to be de-domed if you want a clear die image and maximum candela per watt.

I have been using a UF-1504 as a hand held on night hikes (XPL-HI, FET, IMR-26650). Its been great for 3-4 years, but I’m itching to build a new one.

Have you considered an Osram1mm square?

I ordered one of those as well as 2 more 319at (one to dedome the right way and one to keep normal). A couple 219c, a pair of the samsung high cri leds, a pair of xp-l hi (one in 5k and one in 3k). Most of the leds I have ordered in 4-5k temps. The Nichias are coming in 5000k because I hear they warm up 4-500k when dedomed.