Hey everyone, I’m interested in attempting my first build and had a few questions. I feel like I’ve done the research but still a little hesitant.
My first questions is would a single emitter/reflector (Convoy S2+ host) be easier to build than a triple with optics (Jaxman E2L host)? Would it be easier still to just buy a new driver for my stock Jaxman E2L and mod it?
Either way from what I understand these are the material and steps I need.
1) Pick a host
2) My choice of LED preinstalled on a MCPCB (what is pre-bridged?)
3) Driver with firmware of my choice (can I use Bistro thermo regulation with Crescendo firmware?) -
4) Soldering iron and solder to attach the driver to the LED/MCPCB (how much soldering skills do I need? I’ve only soldered once or twice before, many years ago.)
5) Do I need thermal grease and if I do where would I add it?
6) Put the assembled driver/led onto the pill and screw it into the tube.
7) Install the lens and o-ring.
2) My choice of LED preinstalled on a MCPCB (what is pre-bridged?) (if multi emitter options of series or parallel need to be addressed “bridging” is an option to accomplishing this).
3) Driver with firmware of my choice (can I use Bistro thermo regulation with Crescendo firmware?) – (also RMM has drivers that you don’t need to choose software or at least don’t need to worry about programing at home)
4) Do I need thermal grease and if I do where would I add it?(if its a hot rod then good conduction between the back of the MCPCB and the pill or light is a good idea.)
5) Soldering iron and solder to attach the driver to the LED/MCPCB (how much soldering skills do I need? I’ve only soldered once or twice before, many years ago.) (just do it its not rocket science)
6) Put the assembled driver/led onto the pill and screw it into the tube. (or if multi you may want to do this step before #5 above)
7) Install the lens and o-ring. (if hot rod consider a wire bypass to the switch spring)
Thanks for the advice.
I’m not looking to build a hot rod, I have 2 D4’s to play with and I feel that’s as good as it gets.
Just wanted an edc that can hit 1000 lumens with great firmware. I know there’s probably a light out there like that but building one will make it feel personal.
First question is, what do you actually want? Have a specific goal, and build it to that spec, vs just throwing parts together and hoping you like it.
Eg, what CT/tint are you looking for? CW/NW/WW? High-CRI or “standard”?
Flooder or thrower? (“1000lm” doesn’t say much as to purpose.) Are you okay with a fried-egg beam from a reflector, or would a more nicely-blended beam from a TIR be better?
Do you need a bunch of different modes and mode-groups, or is l/m/h enough?
Tailswitch? Sideswitch? Both?
Think it over and pick what you want, as exactly as you can, and you’ll avoid just throwing together a frankenlight that you won’t love and will if anything just let languish unused in a drawer.
You got the flashlight build 101.
As said, purpose of the light…
Parts selection depends on that.
Can’t recommend the E2L host to build a Fet driven triple. It gets stupid HOT in seconds.
For a useable triple get the S2 and copper spacer. S2 will soak more heat in the larger Copper spacer than the S2+.
If you want the E2L size just buy a stock one,
And is you want a single emitter Fet driven Just buy the A6.
AND, Cough, Cough…… D4 will make you smile every time you use it.
Today there are some good factory built lights that you could not build for the same money.
Sorry, maybe I miscommunicated here - this thread was not about what I want, but rather just the basics of building a light correctly. I’m just seeking advice on the most basic of builds. A general foundation. One does not learn to craft something without learning the basics and that’s what I’m attempting to do here.
Favoring a tint will come through first hand experience and time (I started with no preference and now having obtained a handful of lights in different tints I tend towards neutral warm 4500k-5000k). Flooder and throwers both have their uses. And preferable user interface is again something that will make itself known once I’ve used a variety of them (sometimes I like the simple l/m/h of the Jaxman and sometimes the D4 ramping is just sublime).
For my first attempt I’m not trying to build the “best” most useful light. I’m just trying to get the basics right.
I understand that full well and I have all those lights and I like all of them. But for me the act of making something can be more meaningful that the object itself.
Yes you will need thermal paste. Same as used on computer heatsink. Attic silver or mx4. It goes under the MCPCB, and if s triple. Goes under the spacer too.
Decent quality iron is needed. Soldering 22AWG or thicker wires to the copper boards can suck out a lot heat from an iron. I also use Kester 63/37 lead base solder… No ROHS For me.
Bistro uses a thermometer sensor, no need to set by time. Never used Cresendo.
