See part one if you’re interested.
The driver arrived!
Perfect fit (for the wires too after they were shortened for lower resistance)
After some snipping the sinkpad at the edges a little to fit the pill I applied some arctic cleaner to get everything ready for the installation of the LED I soldered it in.
Selected the middle star to get rid of those annoying blinky modes…
Aaaaand it’s done!
Or is it…. :’(
Wouldn’t turn on, even with some protected 26650’s inside as the new spring on the driver was too short.
Damn.
Okay, lets have a look at the tail cap and see if we can fix this.
Wow… And there goes ever buying an UltraFire product again. Stainless steel spring resting against the switch.
I’ll head to the lathe at the weekend when the workshop isn’t freezing and It’s light enough to see what I’m doing to make a new, longer contact/switch for the tailcap that will have just a little less resistance lol.
DO NOT BUY THIS TORCH!! I’ll get this into a nice zoomy thrower in the end with a hell of a long battery life, but right now I am having to work on every part of the thing just to get it worth the money.
Progress looks good! As a no-talent hack, I’ve occasionally resorted to soldering an extra spring onto the driver-side spring, but I’m sure your solution will be much more elegant.
Yes, for thermal paste you only want a super fine film or it becomes worse in thermal conductivity than just metal on metal. Or so that’s the case in CPUs so I presume.
I put a lot on for the size of the sink pad to be honest, I put way more than I thought I would need just because the sinkpad itself has a raised section under the LED for some reason. Who knows the logic behind that.
Anyone got any ideas for the tail cap, I really want to completely redo it.
You don’t know if the TIM is covering the whole star all the way out to the edges unless you see it all the way around. Using too much is better than not enough. Both will have the exact same thin film when the same pressure is applied. A little extra is better for those SinkPads because the edges don’t sit flush like the Noctigons.
The divot in the middle of the SinkPad is where it was pressed in to raise the top so the copper will direct contact with the emitter. Not the best method.
