Hello everybody
I’ve fitted several McClickies in other hosts (mainly Solarforce and SF), but is there a “trick-of-the-trade” when it comes to the Convoy S2+?
Is it at all possible?
I’d appreciate any inputs.
Sorry, I do not know the answer to your question.
But what I do know is that the small Omten switch that the S2+ comes with is tested over and over again to handle at least up to 16A without failing, with a nice low resistance. If you go over say 8A, it helps if you solder the Omten switch on a different PCB with thicker traces, like the ones that pilotdog68 has designed and are available through Oshpark.
Going this route may be easier than getting a McClicky to fit.
Convoy S series lights have same tail ID and even similar threads to Solarforce lights, so I think it can fit it, but it may be to long to use in standart configurations.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=159
Use one of these. Trim the raised piece of rubber off of the inside of the stock switch boot and it fits like the stock omten 1288. I'd bet it'll handle more current than the mcclicky, especially if you bypass the board and spring.
Thank you guys
I like the feel and quality of the McClick, but I also am a bit afraid it will be somewhat more tricky to fit in the S2-shorty.
The light will primarily run at 25mA (!) so the current-draw won’t be an issue. 
Well, please do take pictures as you figure out how to do it.
We’re always grateful for those willing to be pioneers doing new things of interest.
WILCO
Sorry to say, with shipping to Sweden, this switch will be $2 more than where I can find the McClicky at lowest price (incl pp)… 
The problem I’ve run into with fitting a McClicky where it wasn’t originally designed to go is one of clearance. the McClicky switch has both negative and positive traces showing at the outside edges near the threads, you have to be very careful to keep clearance on the positive side or the switch will be bypassed altogether. The smallish spring is also quite stiff, which in combination with the extended length of the McClicky will many times result in a dented negative end of a cell.
Much easier to use the small Omten, and it holds up better as well. The McClicky is also a forward clicky where I’ve gotten quite used to reverse clickies. 
Good Luck!
Looks like it can work, but you’ll have to make a few relatively minor mods.
The rubber boot can be gently removed from the SS button and the post on the inside removed with a file to get about 2mm gain inside the tail cap.
Then, a thicker spacer will need to be used… the same thickness as the shelf on the McClicky or the same thickness as the brass retaining ring of the S2+
The tricky part here is that you really need to inset the step in the brass ring so it can sit further down over the McClicky. This will be fairly crucial in allowing the light to go back together properly. If you can’t inset it, at the very least thin it down about as much more as the inset currently is.
You can see in this picture below that when activated there is about 3mm of travel still on the post of the McClicky, if you remove about 2mm of this travel or such that the activated switch barely shows post above the body, then you should have good success.
Hope this helps! Have fun! 
Hmmmm, alternately you might could drill out the SS button such that the McClicky switch post sits inside it, giving clearance for the activation and allowing the deeper inset of the body of the switch so your light still fits together. The inset style of the brass retaining ring fits over the body quite nicely, clearing both contact elements without a problem. So if you did it this way you might get away with using the stock spacer but you’d have to open the hole in it so it would fit over that protrusion of the switch post housing. You can see in the background that the stock spacer has a narrow opening compared to the wider thicker spacer to the right of the brass retaining ring.
You’ll be able to make it work, it might take a bit of doing but you can have your McClicky as you wish if you’re willing… (cutting off the spring a little might help as well, be sure to file off sharp edges. And remember that the brass retaining ring on the S2+ is left hand threads. )
So…The short host-version of the S2+ has the same switch as the S2 with the metal-switch under the rubber boot?
In the Convoy Ali-shop there is a “16mm 1288 switch for S2+…” that looks like any other generic switch mounted on a pcb.
All S2+ that Id seen had one threads in the tail for tube and retaining ring and they are right hand. I suppose that only colored versions are equipped with the second threads that are left hand.
Upd. I confused S2+ with S2-S8.
Hi folks!
With one month delivery time from CN, I finally could try this, and it’s pretty much a drop-in fit.
After cutting the nipple on the test boot the click works fine (very hairtrigger with just the extra mm).
The retaining ring has a recess that perfectly center the switch.
Going to try with a harder rubber boot also (and not a zombie green either!)
Cool, but i sill prefer the convoy pistol switch, it’s the most solid switch in budget light i have used
The s2+ hosts I just bought don’t have the piston switch and the original is really crappy, reverse and loud…
Thought of replacing the entire assembly with i.e. one from Solarforce, but the PCB is not the same ø.
I like McClickies so this is a great find!
Going to resurrect this thread…
So I have modded several mcclickys to fit into s2+’s, M2’s and recently an S8 that I am pocketing right now. As others have pointed out, the problem with this switch is that it is so tall. There are a few fixes I have come up with…
- cut the spring down a little bit, then add solder to the top of the spring to protect the backside of your cell.
- this is a bit more involved and pictures will help but, remove the spring and spring clip altogether and replace with 0.05” copper wire formed to fit into the circular channel. I believe in machining terms it is called a boss? then you hook one end of the wire under the switch in order to make contact with the switch disk that makes the connection possible.
- I have chucked a few into my lathe and cut down the tops of the switch just to shorten it up.
I also find that either using a brass button or making a very short but solid contact piece for the positive end of the driver helps but you’ll most likely need to leave some spring on the mcclicky. I have made a few of my lights with no springs at all but there is a lot of guessing and checking when making the positive side contact and then you are stuck with only using cells that are a certain length.
If guys are interested, I can take pics and post or if there is a ton of interest I can maybe do a tutorial?
I too love the mcclicky and run them in most of my lights. I should also mention that I do have a “mcclicky graveyard” in my flashlight parts tackle box because I have ruined a bunch of them trying to figure out how to do these mods lol
SG3, I would be very interested in some pics.
Where is the best place to buy a McClicky?
Ok, so I don’t have an image hosting site set up so I just added the pics to a drop box. Where is everyone hosting their pics at these days? May be easiest to open the drop box in a separate window and do a side by side…
Anyway, the first pic is a McClicky that I removed the spring and spring retainer completely and added my own 0.05” copper wire to, next to a stock McClicky. Next image is the inside of the switch and you can see where I curl that tail end to the inside of the switch in order to make contact when using the switch. Third image is the switch installed into a Convoy M2 tailcap.
Fourth image is a side by side of a stock McClicky (right) and a switch that I cut down on my lathe. Notice that the switch post along with the shoulder and switch housing are all cut down. You can only get away with cutting away roughly 0.05”–0.06” with this method so I also cut the spring down maybe a coil and a half to 2 coils. Next 2 images are just more pics of the modified switch. Last image is the switch inside a Convoy M2 tailcap. Note the difference in depth between this switch and the previous switch. It sits a far bit lower. Multiple ways to skin this cat and I realize not everyone has a lathe but removing the spring and replacing it with copper wire like shown will take roughly .35” away from the height of this spring but you will probably want a spring on the driver side. I usually only run H17F drivers so I prefer to run either a brass button or machine a copper contact for the driver side which is why I came up with the other method of cutting the spring down and shortening the switch body on the lathe. This way I can run a copper or brass button on the driver.
Hope this helps someone and let me know if I can help in any way.