If you are only using your HID for high beam (not sure you can turn if off and on fast enough for that though), you can just remove the cut-off shield. I've see a few teardowns on-line and they all seem to have removable shieds. The one here as one screw holding it in place.
I forgot to tell that my current bike i working out is KLX140 with only have led projector as low beam (no high beam)
I put this scooter bike high beam as reference, my goal at least my KLX140 highbeam near this scooter (bixenon) HID highbeam
Both would be best, but the MT-G2 is really tricky to dedome and you can easily damage the phosphor layer.
If you break the LED you can put another one in there. The new cree XHP50 would be a good candidate and would give you more throw at same output, but it’s not available yet…
Those three resistors (R270, R270, R33?) are most likely your voltage sense resistors. You can solder another one to the side of the small one (so it's easier to remove) and see what happens to current. There are formulas if you know the voltage drop across the bank, but I would just try adding one R3ish (.3 ohms) resistor at a time and remeasure current to the emitter.
A good way to rig the driver so you can add resistors and measure without reassembling the light is to solder wires to connect to your cells and then connect one of the LED leads to a DMM and then the DMM to the emitter. Here is an example. It's a little confusing because there is another driver piggy-backed in it. The fat Red and Black wires going straight up and out of the picture are going the cells. The L- wire is going down the DMM and then the DMM is feeding the emitter. Shorter wires reduce resistance losses.