- A Qlite Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A driver - 17mm with Guppy
- An S2+ Host plus spacer
- (3) CREE XP-G3 S5 3A LEDs on NOCTIGON 3XP COPPER MCPCB + PRE-BRIDGED (sorry, too lazy to type; just copy and pasting from Mtnelec )
Carclo 10507 and 08 lens (so I have a choice)
Is that driver enough to power everything? And is it going to overheat? I’m not really sure about how everything works… But if the custom build option comes back, then I’m definitely going for it.
A Samsung 30Q should provide decent runtime, right???
IMO a 3 amp driver in a triple is a waste. If you’re only going to run 3 amps then I would be running a single emitter. If you want guppy firmware and you’re building a triple then just get a fet driver.
I recently built a quad XPG3 using the short carclo optic and it has a rather unpleasant corona in the beam. The outside edge of the beam is somewhat greenish. I have seen others report a similar corona on XPG3’s even in reflector lights. If you don’t require absolute max output then the nichia 219c is my pick for a triple.
I would get this driver for a triple. (17mm is what you want for a S2+). This will be very bright on the highest mode and will get hot quickly. Guppy has turbo timer options you can set. Bistro is another firmware to consider, it has thermal management that can be set by the user.
The MCPCB is the board the leds are mounted on. This one. is the XPG3 setup that will fit the S2+. You will need the correct spacer and optic as well.
Direct drive means the led is connected directly to the battery without any current regulation. In a fet driver a MOSFET is being switched to connect them.
Keep in mind that a triple will cost somewhat more than 30$ but you’ll love it so it’s worth it. Better that than wasting money on something you’ll not like and need to replace. Also, you can cheaply swap the optic if you don’t like the beam spread. For what you asked, I’d suggest getting at least the medium and narrow spot frosted ones.
MCPCB size for triples can be a bit confusing as they fit larger than what you’d usually put in a S2+. Had me scratching my head for a while at first. The reason is that the MCPCB normally fits in a recess in the pill but will be able to use the full diameter of the tube in a triple because it sits on top of the spacer which is shaped to fit in that recess instead. I hope that made some sense.
FYI, a 3A driver is still a viable option for a triple. One of my favorite builds is a Convoy S3 with a triple XP-G2 S2 setup using a 3A Qlite, with the optional low-mode enabled. On high, this is still a very bright light. Even at 3A, a light with a good thermal path will heat up quickly. I have another triple using a FET driver, but that light is more for a “wow” factor than anything else. I find the more gently driven regulated light to be much more useful all around. FET driver just sucks your battery dry and results in a light that’s too hot to carry.
If you want a hot-rod show-off light for short-time use only, a FET driver is the way to go.
For a functional light you actually intended to use and have some runtime from, a regulated driver is a better option.
A regulated light can use cheaper cells.
A regulated light is safer.
You don’t have to worry about lockout on a regulated light.
A regulated light is less likely to do this: S6 triple XP-L scare
LEDs are more efficient at lower currents.
A 3A Qlite providing each emitter in a triple build with 1A per XP-G2 would still be a 1000+ lumen light.
Thanks! I think I’ll add a few more AMC7135 chips for slightly higher output then… After seeing that thread I think I’ll be a little less of a lumen freak…
Does anyone know when Mtnelectronics will restart the custom build service thingy? Cuz I don’t have the time or tools to do all that assembly required for my light…
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