Found an issue with X5

This may be old news, but… I was changing the battery yesterday in my X5 and the battery tube unscrewed from the head. The brass retainer ring unscrewed with it, not a big deal just tighten it up, right??? My retainer ring goes in so deep that it drops out of the threads at the end on top of the driver. This explains why if the battery tube is the tinyest bit loose at the head that the light does not work correctly.

Has anyone else seen this? I am behind in reading hear, as life has really been in the way. So, this may be old news. Should I go back to BG with this? I really do not want to pull it apart and make solder blobs on the driver ground ring to make it thicker.

Matt

I’ve tried to keep up with the GB thread and I think that’s the first time that issue came up. My bare A6 does the same thing except on the driver end. I soldered three 0.025” copper shims filed to fit just right on the ground ring of the driver board. More work than just slinging solder in there but much nicer looking and no added resistance.

That is where the problem is on mine, must not have been clear it is doing this at the driver. First time I had removed the battery tube from the head on this light.

One of my X5’s had the same characteristic. What I did is add some thick strips of aluminum foil between the retaining ring and driver.

Just one more data point but my copper X5 does not have this issue. I’ve had it apart several times, even swapped its emitter around, and it all fits together as it should.

I was hoping to avoid taking it apart and adding parts. I am going to chat with BG and if that strikes out I will solder on some strips of solder wick. It has enough room to add another whole retainer ring.

Haha, no you were perfectly clear. For some reason my mind was thinking switch retaining ring. Maybe it was the 70 work week last week...

I think I would try shimming it first because chances are they are all close to the same and yours is just a touch off from all the others. Start with .010" and go up until it grabs. If the gap between the tube and head gets to big you could shave a few thousandths off the end of the tube with a bench stone or file.

Similar issue with my tailcap on the X5 Cu. If I take the light apart a couple times the retaining ring for the tail switch comes loose and the light refuses to function until tightened. Slightly annoying, would be a dealbreaker if it was my EDC.

Polish off the end of the tube with some fine sand paper. Lay the paper on a hard flat surface then lap the end of the batt tube. Do the same thing to the retaining ring on the side that contacts the tube. Smooth it out and get the burrs and high spots knocked down. Put it back together and tighten down the ring. Put some nyogel on the ring where it contacts the tube and it shouldn’t be as much of a problem.

Well you don’t need to solder anything or take much apart. Just unscrew the ring, lay the aluminum foil strips, and screw in the ring. Pretty easy, no solder.

I have thought about doing that… but unprotected button top. I would hate to see a short. May do it anyway.

Just remember that shimming will enlarge the gap between the head and the little shoulder of the tube where the knurling stops. That's why I said lap off the end of the tube if the gap is more than you like. Add just enough shim thickness to get it to tighten up that way you minimize the the gap.

Yup, I looked and mine does not reach all the way to the brass ring. Have some head room.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I hadn’t tried opening the tube from the top, yet. I’ll be careful about doing so in the future.

I have been using hydraulic crush washer’s (seals) for spacing battery tubes out for 26700’s and also for longer batteries that a just too tight to fit in some lights. Also for driver shelfs that are kind of thin and you want better contact and area, such when using buck drivers, the extra area helps heat sink them when running high current. They make them in different diameters and thickness, and can be easily cut and made smaller then soldered and filed flat if need be since they are made of copper. Here are some examples……. http://www.amazon.com/10pcs-13mmx20mmx1-5mm-copper-washer-gasket/dp/b00ww7b15m can also be found locally too… https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;\_ylt=A0LEV1YgYPBWpTkA7dVXNyoA;\_ylu=X3oDMTEybGxlNTl0BGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQTAxOTdfMQRzZWMDc2M~~?p=Copper+Hydraulic+Seals&fr=ush-mailn_02 You can go to a local Parker store or maybe an Exotic/Parker store near you… ;~~)

Couple of pics… it takes 2 wraps of 24 gauge wire to allow it to tighten. That is quite a gap.

I didn't realize it was the AL X5. Anyway I got curious about it yesterday and took some measurements on my copper X5. It appears they may be a bit of difference in the way their machined out. I found out that I only have about .021" of thread engagement when fully tightened down.

I tried to draw it out to give a visual of how mine is. The threads don't start until about 1/8" down so just ignore that.

I am not sure that I would have even had that much. After reseating it the first time it dropped below the threads. BTW, I did open a case with BG. Not sure if it will come of anything.