✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF01S 15000lm Flashlight Group Buy - ENDED

Flat top Samsung 30Q work fine for me.

if you want max output in stock form, I recommend Samsung 25S or VTC5A Murata flat tops like i use, they will work without needing to remove the protection rings and give more output than 30Q

All Flat Top batteries will work WITHOUT REMOVING pritection rings!!

See here: ✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF01S 15000lm Flashlight Group Buy - ENDED - #867 by JasonWW

How can it be 4S1P? They’d have to redesign the whole driver for that.

I had to look up what a Mateminco MT18S was. It’s this light! So it’s 2S2P 6v.

I just tested some Molicel P26A and P28A. The P26A average 2720mah. The P28A average 2780mah. In terms of performance the P26A is just slightly better than the P28A. Using these cells, I get about 40 lumens more than Sony VTC6. I also tested them in the Fireflies E07 and got these results:

Molicel P26A: 6640 lumens
Molicel P28A: 6300 lumens
Sony VTC5D: 6300 lumens
Sony VTC6: 5650 lumens
Molicel P42A 21700: 5600 lumens

I recommend P26A for performance and the VTC6 if you want longest run time yet with good output. Also P26A will continue to perform better than the rest along the entire discharge curve.
All of these cells perform better than the Samsung 30Q from HKJ’s comparator

The Molicel P26A I bought from Vapcell is the best 18650 I’ve tried. It is also recommended by Mooch as the best all around 18650. Surprisingly, the Molicel P42A, which I also bought from Vapcell was a major letdown. Not sure if Vapcell got a bad batch of the P42A. It outputs about the same as the Lishen LR2170SF rated for much less current. Edit: I just checked my 40T and 30T in the E07 and got similar or less output than the P42A. I realize it is because the springs looses resilience and doesn’t push as hard on the 21700 cells resulting in poor contact leading to lower output. The 18650 with the 21700 adapter is longer than 21700 cells so it gets good contact.

Does the MF01S come with turbo set to highest lumens using a double click from on, or does that need to be set?

As far as I know, you get max turbo with a double click.

Thanks! My blue 4k is arriving tomorrow, only 11 days after I ordered it from BG.

Your focus seems to be quite narrow. There are many factors in choosing what battery is best for you. You seemed to be focused on performance. I rank performance pretty low in my list. Most folks don’t care at all about performance because they can’t see the tiny differences in lumens and if they have a device that measures lumens, they may not care about bragging rights.

Factors to include would be:
Type (high drain or high capacity)

The Molicel is great, but it’s only sold at one or two stores from what I remember. We don’t know where Rock lives so he may not even be able to get it if he wanted. It’s also a bit on the expensive side.

I think the 30Q is a good choice for this light because they are high quality, relatively cheap, commonly available and have a good mix of performance and capacity.

You could squeeze out some more lumens with a higher drain cell like the P26A, but is that really important?

If your objective is the longest run time you can go with a higher capacity cell like Samsung 35E or LG MG1 for example.

It all depends on your needs. Just don’t use protected cells in this light as it will definitely hurt performance or may not work at all.

The only reason I would purchase an 18 led 15000 lumen light is for performance and looks. That’d be like buying a Ferrari and putting grabbers on it for longer tread life. Not that you shouldn’t, but really? Anything after 5000 lumens is pure luxury.

Also, are you seriously burning through your battery juice that much in one go? I’ve yet to burn through my batteries and I work 12 hr night shifts. I’ll take max blast just for the hell of it, runtimes schmuntimes.

This is my MT18S, it’s 4S1P no?

This is my MT09R which is 2S2P right?

High Amp cells not only give more output but also get more high output usable runtimes, the Samsung 25S beat all those cells mentioned above in terms of output according to lygte-info.dk btw

In stock settings:

When light is off - double click to max ramp, double click again for max output

When light is on - double click once for max output

(you can set the max ramp to 100%, this lets your light go to max output with only one double click from off)

It is 2S2P on the Mateminco and Astrolux. You have to look at the Driver-Side Batteryboard too.

It has nothing to say that the springs are positioned diagonaly and not next to each other like Haikelite makes it on their 2S2P carriers. For haikelite it is true, you can see the if its 2S2P or 4S1P on the position of the springs.

Here you can see the other PCB:

Ahh you’re right.

Can I charge cells that I will use in this light separately? I only have 2 slot chargers. Is there something I should be aware of if I charge the cells 2 at a time?

It does and the 20S is even higher current but the capacity is too small. The P26A I believe is the optimal performance/capacity 18650. It maintains higher voltage over other similar cells for the majority of the discharge curve, which makes it more useful for the entire runtime.

Jason mentioned Molicels might not be readily available. I’m not sure about the rest of the world, but it’s now easily purchasable within the US. Many shops imported the Molicels after Mooch rated them as the best all around 18650 and 21700. Illumn in California stocks them now and ships super fast. Though for the price, the 30Q is still a very good choice and probably one of the easiest to purchase.

I’ll mention flat-top Sony VTC6 and VTC5, and also flat-top LG HG2 appear to work well on the MF01S too.