milk
(milk)
662
Mine finally showed up too and that’s about how I feel about it. I can get past the quirks because they’re not that different than my FW3As, and I even like the clickiness of the tailswitch, but the beam profile is absolutely atrocious. Major dead spot right in the center, right where you want light to be more than anywhere else. Terrible tint shift. I got the SST20 version. The clip sucks, too. Hopefully it can be modded easily because it is a great looking host. “A” for effort….
I have checked all the settings on mine, reset it, and done everything I know to improve the output, and its still very poor. Doing a ceiling bounce test I estimate it to be producing around 1K lumens. Given the poor beam, and the flickering, I am most disappointed. Also although the output is low it does warm up pretty quickly, which makes me think power is being lost somewhere.
I am not an anduril expert but believe that I have configured the flashlight correctly, however there is always the possibility of operator error 
will34
(will34)
665
The only way to fix the output and beam is to use a carclo optic and a proper MCPCB with the emitters facing in different angles (like the noctigon). It will require a redesign of the head/bezel and aux led board. I hope to see this in the V2.
patmurris
(patmurris)
666
Finally received mine an hour ago. Black Al+Cu SST20 4000K, Andùril.
I could not unscrew the head so i loaded a fresh flat top 30Q by the tail.
I’m sorry to confirm most of the above mentioned shortcomings. Too much silicon grease, flickering, low output, terrible beam, loud clicky switch. I did not try to reset or calibrate anything yet and i’m not sure i’ll bother. As shirnask said, it’s a very nice light as long as i don’t use it.
I’d be willing to buy a V2 if those issues have been solved and the V1 owners get a significant rebate.
BTW: the tail springs are way too long IMO. That probably does not help in the current path. A spring bypass would be much more efficient. The inner tube is also very thin and offers a rather small contact surface at it’s ends… Not sure how that was done on the FW3…
mortuus
(mortuus)
667
wow… 1k lumens? even if the lh35 is floody that doesnt sound right at all… it should do min 2,5k lumens or something even my fw3a warm white xpl does 2000 or so on turbo…. i still havent got my lh35 yet maybe this week i will try compare to my fw3a, ff e07 and the other rgb lights that i have… but either way this should have been adressed before the light went into mass production we were promised a nice light it seems with all issues bad beams low output it was rushed sadly without a few prototype samples sent to maukka toykeeper etc…
When I got it the light I had to hand to compare it to, was a KR4 with the E21 leds which is supposed to do 1200 lumens. And the Meote was noticeably dimmer. I knew then, that I had an issue, and as Flashaholics reported in his review, he got inconsistent output results, and I have noticed that too. I have reset it and set it up for max output with no improvements. I am using a fully charged VTC6 battery so its not the battery. The flicker comes and goes, which worries me.
mortuus
(mortuus)
669
ok so weird, go see the other thread user SKV89 reports almost 3000 lumens on turbo, even top of ramp he says it reached 1500… so i dont know….
highzlik
(highzlik)
670
Well I suppose you’ve tried if you’re not in muggle mode right?
Yes I did check that, as it might explain things, but it was not in muggle mode. I did note that the flickering got worse in muggle mode though.
just checked mine and had 1 defect out of 3.
similar to other people experienced…… Turbo is about 1k and abit of flickering.
need to test the lights thoroughly as they been sitting on shelve for weeks
not sure how i can explain to banggood. Very irritating to rush in group buy and get shitty light. 
mortuus
(mortuus)
673
lh35 emitters i guess? its not ok they push only like a normal convoy s2 on turbo :person_facepalming: … come on…. what went wrong ??
when i get mine i will compare it to wurkos wk30, its using 1 lh35 emitter and does like 1200 lumens on max, should be easy to tell compared to the meote light as a reference…
SKV89
(SKV89)
674
For those who experienced flickering make sure you have adequate contact. This light is EXTREMELY sensitive to poor contact. I tried a P26A and it flickered like crazy then I put in another P26A and it worked fine. One of the P26A seems to have a top slightly more recessed. Both batteries work the same in other lights and produce the same output.
Also make sure you thoroughly clean all contacts with detergent. For the copper head, clean it with alcohol and a cloth. That should fix alot of the low output and flickering problems.
SKV89
(SKV89)
675
Received my LH351D version and disassembled the whole thing to wash it down with detergent. The contacts on the head were wiped thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol. Output measured at 2s from turn-on with the Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights. Spectrometer used is a Sekonic C-800-U.
| Meote FM1 LH351D |
Turbo |
2,922 lumens |
5194K |
0.0050 DUV |
89.4 CRI |
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00 |
41.5 R9 |
74.7 R12 |
89 Rf |
99 Rg |
Molicel P26A |
| Meote FM1 LH351D |
Top of Ramp |
1,500 lumens |
5168K |
0.0058 DUV |
89.1 CRI |
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00 |
41.8 R9 |
74.5 R12 |
88 Rf |
99 Rg |
Molicel P26A |
| Meote FM1 LH351D |
Random level |
58 lumens |
4809K |
0.0037 DUV |
92.4 CRI |
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00 |
54.9 R9 |
69.0 R12 |
90 Rf |
98 Rg |
Molicel P26A |
Unfortunately the tint is not great. DUV is pretty high above the BBL. Sofirn had a better batch of the LH351D 5000K where DUV is almost on the BBL. The plastic sleeve does not fit cells with clear wrap so I couldn't use my VTC6 cells. Not sure why Hank was able to eliminate the sleeve in the KR4. It is also much bigger than the FW3A and D4 but the added mass and extra emitter should allow it to handle high output much better. The best thing about this light is the excellent copper pill design. There is much more copper than it looks from the outside. The copper thread extends into the body for enhanced heat transfer. I wish more lights will adopt this copper pill with aluminum body design.
The KR4 does have an inner sleeve/signal tube, it is just machined with a lip so it won’t come the tailcap end and is spring-loaded to maintain contact.
I had cleaned mine, but after reading this post, I gave it a further cleaning just in case. I appear to have upset it :) It ramps by itself and does not like to obey the switch. I have clearly caused some sort of contact issue so will investigate. Either that, or its possessed :)
i cleaned with alcohol but no help.
ramping to max get around 1k lumen and no turbo with double clicks
might be firmware issue?
mortuus
(mortuus)
679
even if u factory reset it ? how could this not be noted before they shipped out all the lights…
TheAuditor
(TheAuditor)
680
I have cleaned mine three times and factory reset it a couple of times. Its actually got worse.
I suspect little to no QA was done on these, and we don’t appear to be offered any solution from the supplier. I will claim against BG and if necessary go through PP. If I get a refund I will buy a KR1.
Geuzzz
(Geuzzz)
681
Maybe it is wise to stop the adds on this light for a while. And stop taking orders untill the design is improved.
