There is no need in presicious height measurements in pilled versions. Pill can be a bit lower and screwed in the place until the lens will contact head/glass.
I`ll give you one more free idea: you can make a lowest height pill (about 5mm) to use 18500 battery in 18350 host with triple configuration.
I was considering if the battery + were kept in the exact same position as with the stock assembly, how long the pill would be.
The difference between the lengths of the two batteries is about .585”. So we gain .292” from the switch to the Carclo optic if using no glass lens. This leaves .293” to make up for. The stock pill being .51” long with a .050” deep star pocket, it needs to be .46” long to accommodate the 20mm star and keep that same length. From the base of the star, it would need to be approximately .167” tall [4.24mm] to keep the same installed position at the rear as the stock assembly. Yea I think that’s right.
Edit: actually, the stock heatsink has length added for the brass retaining ring as well so it is effectively shorter than .51”. The length of the pill would need to be too short for my comfort.
Actually now that I think about it, you are probably correct about there not being a bottleneck. Pretty disregard my suggestion. A thicker shelf would make the pill unnecessarily heavy.
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Battery length (18650) differs up to 5mm.
Few people today use stock driver for triple, there are lots of different springs.
Sorry guys, imperial system is good for frame house building.
Difference in batteries is 15mm.
Don`t take into consideration optics height - heads of 18650 and 18350 convoys are the same.
I`ve made triple spacers about 17.5mm height between pcb plane and driver spring side plane.
Extra 1.5mm can be used if there is no glass.
Extra 3mm can be used with springs full compressed (or even more if using one spring only).
17.5+1.5-15=4mm minimum
17.5+1.5-15+3=7mm maximum (without tailswitch upgrade).
This calculations are much simplier, aren`t them?
Ordered one already.
But agreeing with the above, for the future: it’d be great if you could use the retaining ring approach … possible to reuse the threaded retaining ring of the original brass pill.
The convenience would be worth an extra dollar or two, to be able to easily swap out drivers.
After all, “the only thing that gets old faster than computers is fresh fruit” — and these drivers and emitters are semiconductors, if not actual computes, they’re improving just as fast.
I’m not really particular about the solder vs ring except in the case of aluminum pills. A tapped grub screw hole as Mattaus did with the triple p60’s might be a compromise. My C8 is an older one with the aluminum pill (not integrated) and I purchased the matching brass one from Gear Best I believe(complete with skewed wire holes), how do I determine if your copper pill will fit? I’d be on the list for it if I can verify this.
If pill for C8 from GB will fit, this won`t, and vise versa.
Convoy had 2 pilled versions: with standart metric thread (as on Ultrafire and others) and with square threads (like posted in this thread).
Not at all, you were right in your first post. More weight (more copper) equals to more heat storage capacity, so there is more time (seconds) until the light gets to hot.
This is especially important with a small flashlight without fins (like the S2+) that being hand held by the user cannot dissipate enough heat to hold it continuously if driven hard.
More copper is better! 
These look great. I like the flares around the drive slots on the bottom, the thin driver lip, the subtle clearances near the wire holes, and the constant use of chamfered edges.
I think that Gunga was asking about a threaded pill with the “spacer” integrated. Such an item would be approximately the same amount of “tricky” as the S2 pill you’ve shown in the OP. For an example kiriba-ru actually sells a pill of the type I’m referring to - but produced on a manual lathe. I don’t think that kiriba-ru will be offended when I say that those pieces can’t hold a candle to these CNC-produced items.
I like that idea. Did you share pictures anywhere? My knee-jerk concern would be the quality of the ground connection (for both electrical and heatsinking).
Hoop already knows about this, but the sizes differ more than “a bit”. Every dimension is different AFAIK from the top to the bottom, the only parts which interchange are probably reflectors, springs, bulbs, and rubber switch boots. I expect that Hoop will at least initially work with only those lights featuring a “D” in the serial number. Lights without a “D” haven’t been produced in 15 years 25 years or so and are now rare among modders.
EDIT: corrected myself… 25 years is a long time.
Not only that, even with the same generation, IDs vary in the tubes, so you have to use something like a set screw to hold the heat sink from moving, or you have a heat sink that is too big for some tubes and too small for others. It’s a pain.
What about the "D" LED Maglites and the newer version 2D, 3D and "C" LED Maglites? I love that new 2C LED Maglite, but all the new ones have a press fit heat sink and the 2C is a twisty, so lots of modding to make it work. Well, lots of modding to make any of the new Maglitess work, since the driver boards on the "D" Mags are now in the switch.
Yes more mass is good. The heatsink will saturate pretty immediately anyway though. Don’t feel disadvantaged if you’re buying batch 1. Batch 1 is also at a discount price. 
Good eye. Took many hours of programming to achieve. To get a clean appearance, the parts have to be kept impeccably clean and dry at all times. I don’t touch them with my bare fingers for example. There is also about 10 minutes of hand work in these parts, but it is not evident. I can only make 3, maybe 4 an hour at present.
As for the relatively thin driver lip, it really isn’t achieving its design goal of making soldering easier. The heat transfer is just too fast. I’ve added a dovetail cut into the lip, and this offered marginal improvement, but I can add notches on either side as well to improve it to a point where soldering will not be as tedious.
Looks nice to me. One place I foresee a potential issue is with single sided drivers and using flat top cells with a brass button shorter than the screws as with possibly an 18500 S2(X) triple where length is at a premium.
But guess what else just barely works? 0-80 socket head cap screws. The head is .056” tall, so if the button on the battery is shorter than that, a small brass button should be used on the driver contact. You need a .050” hex key to use these, which can be provided with each heatsink.
No Gap:
Both of these changes can be done to the already finished heatsinks. What do ya’ll think? The solder cuts are an obviously necessary move. Do you like the screws concept?
I will probably not do an 18500 triple heatsink because of how short it is. I may try it and see how it performs. I will modify my standard design and make a triple version though since that is as easy as making it longer and drilling a hole in the middle.
Put me down for D-mag heat sink.
At least 3.
Ok, these new changes are just too great. And I am making the shelf thickkkkk. 4.5mm thick. Thanks for all of the input! Everyone is going to get a batch 2 heatsink shipped. The folks who’ve already paid for a batch 1 heatsink will also get one of the batch 1’s since that’s what they paid for, and I’ll use the rest in personal builds.
The heatsink will include some greased 0-80 socket head cap screws, a hex key to fit those screws, and a brass button that’s taller than the cap screws. It’s now a solderless / solderable heatsink.
Don’t worry about stripping those tiny screws; you do not even have to remove them from the heatsink to get the driver out since the new design uses three screws in a right angle triangle orientation. You can install or remove a driver in less than 10 seconds.
The hexagonal recess in the socket head cap screws is large enough to accommodate snap ring plier tips. They can be used to crank the pill into the light rather than using the copper slots. This will prevent damage to the copper. (Use the copper for the final bit of torque though!)
Edit: here’s what we’re looking like.
In due time.
If you do happen to make an S2+ Pill With integrated spacer for a triple I would be in for one.
I’m interested in the C8 pill, but I’m not sure if it would fit my old C8.