Future mod - Crelant V4A

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I purchased a V4A during the group buy and initially I was satisfied. Unfortunately about two months later it started having problems. After installing freshly charged cells the light would flash dimly and after a struggle I could get it to light but unreliably. Often I would turn it off and when turned on again it would be flashing again. Cleaning contact points and nimh cells helped briefly but often I’d clean, assemble, and it would work. Turn it off and on - flashing. I had given it to my mom but due to its unreliability ended up trading her my EA41W. It’s been sitting here nagging at me and I think I decided what to do with it. I had considered boring out the tube and modding to fit a 26650 but I think I have a better idea. It will require designing some custom contact boards but the current plan is to use 14500 cells. The contact boards would be designed to allow for + contact at the head end for 4p cells with contact points large enough for springs for cells in 2s2p. The tail contact would allow the same and use soldered jumpers to configure for 4p or 2s2p.

Now for some questions: Has anyone removed the tail contact board? Is the retaining pin press fit or threaded? Has anyone removed the switch cover retaining ring? Pressed or threaded?

Due to recent driver purchases, funds set aside for more, the impending Q8 buy, and the need for a fresh linux install (I’ve been using my phone for internet and forgot my password) it will be a few weeks before I’ll get started but I suspect these mods might make the V4A a really nice light with the right driver.

Any suggestions for 14500 cells with good capacity and output? I know capacity will be around 900mAh max but in 4p that’s 3600mAh which isn’t too bad.

I guess in a way it’s almost a Q4 prototype.

For those who own the V4A: Check your alignment pins on the tailboard. I found mine were very loose.

2

I would suggest windyfire 14500’s for the current carrying ability. I do have some of the older Xtar 600ma and they also handle very high current well. The new protected Xtar 800ma seem ok, I have not tripped them yet.

3

I just opened mine up and I can tell you it’s glued well… really well. In fact it was the hardest light I’ve ever opened.

If yours is anything like mine then you will uglify it trying to get it open.

4

What part was glued? My bezel and from bits come off and had no glue. I changed the LED in mine. I have not had the driver out of it yet.

5

To rewire the battery boards (like tekwyz wants) you’ll need to remove the head from body. Long story short - my drill press is not bolted down but I used enough force to turn it on the bench. Maybe mine is an anomaly but it was really hard.

6

Wow! I was able to unscrew the battery tube from the head without issue. Maybe I got lucky… I wanted to see what was in there and how it all made contact.

7

Damn I wish mine was like that :weary:

8

Ok, so there is a big spring on top of the battery tube and it makes contact with the center of the driver. The driver on mine is retained by a brass threaded retainer ring.

I want the new Manker… I suppose I could part with mine…

It is my way to hot and way to cold truck light with NiMH batteries in it.

9

I had no problem removing the head or bezel.

10

Finally ordered and received 14500 cells from LIION Wholesale. Opted for the Imren 700mAh. Has anyone figured out how to remove the switch cover retaining ring?

11

It’s a press fit.