FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Klayking · 2019-06-07T21:09:04.000Z

FW3A looks great polished. Wonderful job you did on that one!

Lick · 2019-06-08T00:52:20.000Z

Is the SST-20 really green at low levels? Seems like aside from makku's test nobody else claims it was greenish. I don't see how the LH351D is green either.

ToyKeeper · 2019-06-08T01:15:18.000Z

Lick:

Is the SST–20 really green at low levels? Seems like aside from makku’s test nobody else claims it was greenish. I don’t see how the LH351D is green either.

Typically, yes, the SST-20 and LH351D tend to have positive duv at low power levels… but the tint gets colder and the duv goes down at higher power levels.

If that doesn’t make sense, duv is the delta u-v on a tint graph, or the distance from the “pure white” blackbody locus line (BBL). Positive duv looks more green or yellow… while negative duv tends to look more purple or pink.

In general, most people prefer somewhat pink tints. So those are what we generally aim for. But it’s difficult to get pink-biased LEDs… especially when looking for high-power LEDs which will often be used at low power levels. LED companies spec their lights at full power, not at the low levels often used in a flashlight.

For example, the SST-20 FA3 tint is approximately at the same place on that graph as the Cree 5A1 bin… so it should be pretty pink. But when it’s running at low power, it still has a positive duv, closer to 5B4 on the graph above. And when it’s running closer to full power, the tint is actually where the specs say it should be, and it looks nicely rose-tinted.

So SST-20 isn’t recommended for people who have a strong preference for rosy tint and plan to use the lights primarily at low power levels. But it’s fine for people who use mostly brighter modes or who don’t care so much about the duv.

Tejasandre · 2019-06-08T04:33:53.000Z

My niches will be in tomorrow the post office says.

Geuzzz · 2019-06-08T07:48:25.000Z

ToyKeeper:

Lick:

Is the SST–20 really green at low levels? Seems like aside from makku’s test nobody else claims it was greenish. I don’t see how the LH351D is green either.

Typically, yes, the SST-20 and LH351D tend to have positive duv at low power levels… but the tint gets colder and the duv goes down at higher power levels.

If that doesn’t make sense, duv is the delta u-v on a tint graph, or the distance from the “pure white” blackbody locus line (BBL). Positive duv looks more green or yellow… while negative duv tends to look more purple or pink.

In general, most people prefer somewhat pink tints. So those are what we generally aim for. But it’s difficult to get pink-biased LEDs… especially when looking for high-power LEDs which will often be used at low power levels. LED companies spec their lights at full power, not at the low levels often used in a flashlight.

For example, the SST-20 FA3 tint is approximately at the same place on that graph as the Cree 5A1 bin… so it should be pretty pink. But when it’s running at low power, it still has a positive duv, closer to 5B4 on the graph above. And when it’s running closer to full power, the tint is actually where the specs say it should be, and it looks nicely rose-tinted.

So SST-20 isn’t recommended for people who have a strong preference for rosy tint and plan to use the lights primarily at low power levels. But it’s fine for people who use mostly brighter modes or who don’t care so much about the duv.

I agree with you, but if you go warmer it isn’t the case.

I see a lot of warnings for the sst20 tint on lower levels, but the 3000k sst20s I got from KD are really nice on low levels.

I know 3000k is to warm for some of you, but who wants their bedroom to look like a cold operation room

I think it would be a good option to with the 3000k sst20s instead of 7a xpl hi and they keep 219c for the 4000k version.

M4D_M4X · 2019-06-08T07:50:30.000Z

;)

electricjelly · 2019-06-08T07:56:32.000Z

oooo, ahhhh. Is that one on the right titanium and copper? That looks like it would take flame anodizing quite nicely if so.

bigtrav261 · 2019-06-08T08:03:15.000Z

M4D M4X:

Tally-ho · 2019-06-08T08:29:14.000Z

The FW3A unanodized (Ti/Cu ?) looks much better even less polished because a buffing wheel rounds off all those angles, rounded angles don”t look good to me.

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-06-08T08:46:47.000Z

The FW3A unanodized (Ti/Cu ?) looks much better even less polished because a buffing wheel rounds off all those angles, rounded angles don”t look good to me.

Mine is getting BUFFED UP to a Mirror finish. In case I need to check my Grill or Comb my wig….

Tally-ho · 2019-06-08T11:43:07.000Z

While checking new arrivals on fasttech :
Authentic LUMINTOP FW3A LED Flashlight : $49.95 with the code MAP : $38.85

Johm · 2019-06-08T11:59:44.000Z

Nice…

On the product page for the Neutral White model it says:

LIGHT SOURCE COLOR 3500-5500K

Are they going to send the 3D or 7A tint at random?

acab · 2019-06-08T12:02:54.000Z

Tally-ho:

$38.85

Thanks for the link - interesting price point that is very close to the GB agreement internally.

@Johm

The description says:
“Cree XP-L HI 3D(NW 5000K) and Cree XP-L HI 7A(WW 3300K) LED
Cree XP-L HI 1A(CW 6500K)”

so when selecting the tint, this is what they would send out.
Not every tint/LED is available, if you can’t put it into the basket, the item is sold out (like the Nichia currently?)

Johm · 2019-06-08T12:15:06.000Z

@acab

I’m afraid i can’t find the information you are referring to.

Sku 9699017 does not specify more than 3500-5500 for me and there is no other listing or selection for NW.

acab · 2019-06-08T12:19:43.000Z

sorry, I was referring to nealsgadget, not Fasttech.

FT only has two models, not the others.

cold and neutral white (warm emitter was left out? and no nichia?)

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10017693/9699017

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10017693/9699016

edit: I do know what you mean, the tint range is wrong in the item description. I am assuming (!), that the neutral is not the warm white emitter.

JasonWW · 2019-06-08T13:08:10.000Z

Johm:

@acab

I’m afraid i can’t find the information you are referring to.

Sku 9699017 does not specify more than 3500-5500 for me and there is no other listing or selection for NW.

Look under the price where is says “stock” and “quantity”. There is a drop down box that let’s you choose which FW3A you want. It lists 50 something Lumintop lights, but only 2 FW3A and the exact emitter is not specified, just NW and CW. It’s not very clear. Maybe they will update it soon.

fonfan · 2019-06-08T22:52:35.000Z

Muggle mode in my FW3A works wrong. Before temperature sensor calibration it jumped down to low from any power during 0-5 sec after switch on or power regulation. After calibration of temperature sensor and setting limit to 45 - In normal mode FW3A is hot, but in muggle mode it is barely warm when reset to low.

Helios_azimuth · 2019-06-09T02:01:48.000Z

High winds forecast for tonight and power company might cut off power. So charged some 18650’s for one of the FW3As & the BLF A6, plus some 26650s for the D4S and cat v6. Ready for evening! Love living in the mountains - every day is an adventure.

JasonWW · 2019-06-09T02:39:45.000Z

fonfan:

Muggle mode in my FW3A works wrong. Before temperature sensor calibration it jumped down to low from any power during 0-5 sec after switch on or power regulation. After calibration of temperature sensor and setting limit to 45 - In normal mode FW3A is hot, but in muggle mode it is barely warm when reset to low.

Sounds about right. ToyKeeper said Muggle Mode activates sooner and is a bit janky.

So it blinks out the correct room temp now, but still steps down when barely warm?

Tejasandre · 2019-06-09T03:42:36.000Z

The nichia is lovely, but gets hit even faster thank 3D. I’ll get pics up on the other forum tomorrow